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Old 11-01-2004, 02:40 PM   #8356
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Jesse is right. From a physics point of view, it's about mechanical advantage. The force required (torque) to turn the spur is lessened because you must use a larger pinion to get the same ratio. The larger pinion has much more leverage on the spur. Therefore, the car will accelerate harder and faster, and the motor will run cooler.
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Old 11-01-2004, 02:46 PM   #8357
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Anyone looking for sets of C-hubs 2,4,6 degrees, i have a set of each brand new never used. LMK

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Old 11-01-2004, 05:15 PM   #8358
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I'm going to ask you all again about the Pro 4 chassis tweek. Can anyone help out with this issue. Do I have to file the motor plate or something. I couldn't find it posted here earlier.
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Old 11-01-2004, 05:28 PM   #8359
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Quote:
Originally posted by TOEBSTER2
I'm going to ask you all again about the Pro 4 chassis tweek. Can anyone help out with this issue. Do I have to file the motor plate or something. I couldn't find it posted here earlier.
Jason.....make sure that all you gear boxs are sitting flush on the chassis and when you put the top plate on make sure that all the holes line up. With the motor mount make sure that you installed it straight across....I have seen them shifted and that might be a cause of a tweak. In regards to the motor mount it is almost like it needs a 3rd screw at the end of it to keep straight as they can get askewed. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-01-2004, 05:35 PM   #8360
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Thanks Kevin I'll check it out.
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Old 11-01-2004, 06:42 PM   #8361
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I am having some trouble about the heavy duty RPM ball cup that I am planning to replace onto the PRO 4....I tried a pair of those RPM cup and seems like they are very tight (compare to the stock HPI one).........the whole suspension seems like in lock position up into air (I didn't mount the stock yet)

Did I used the wrong RPM cups....? I used the black heavy duty one, I believed that is the same one that HARA use, and I don't think there are other size from RPM...

Please advise....thanks
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Old 11-01-2004, 06:53 PM   #8362
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Way back someone mentioned using something to spread the opening a little. Try a little experimenting. The Schumacher Ball Grippa's are real nice. Part number is U1704K
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Old 11-01-2004, 07:26 PM   #8363
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I am having some trouble about the heavy duty RPM ball cup that I am planning to replace onto the PRO 4....I tried a pair of those RPM cup and seems like they are very tight (compare to the stock HPI one).........the whole suspension seems like in lock position up into air (I didn't mount the stock yet)

Did I used the wrong RPM cups....? I used the black heavy duty one, I believed that is the same one that HARA use, and I don't think there are other size from RPM...

Please advise....thanks
You have to "break in" RPM ball cups. The way I do it is pop a ball connector on (by itself) and spin the connector in the cup's socket with a dremel. After a few seconds the plastic will warm up and be broken in.

Then again, i've never tried it with HPI connectors. They might be bigger than what I was using..
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Old 11-01-2004, 08:29 PM   #8364
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Hi guys...
bad news!~

I am getting out of rc...

I'll get the most out of it if i part it out, so unless someone gives me an ok offer for everything, I am parting out the NIP parts and hop ups!~

Email me at steven.chun@rogers.com if you want to buy a specific part...

I got lots of hop ups and stuff so let me know!
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Old 11-01-2004, 08:43 PM   #8365
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brian McGreevy
Jesse is right. From a physics point of view, it's about mechanical advantage. The force required (torque) to turn the spur is lessened because you must use a larger pinion to get the same ratio. The larger pinion has much more leverage on the spur. Therefore, the car will accelerate harder and faster, and the motor will run cooler.
torque = force x distance. So bigger pinion and spur will have harder and faster accerleration provided the motor can produce that amount of torque.

We all know the motor draws a lot of Amps during acceleration and this produce lots of heat. So I think the motor is now cooler due to the faster acceleration where time needed for the high amp draw is less.
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Old 11-01-2004, 08:45 PM   #8366
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Quote:
Originally posted by coastaltony
Way back someone mentioned using something to spread the opening a little. Try a little experimenting. The Schumacher Ball Grippa's are real nice. Part number is U1704K
I truly agree. I got mine from KT Hobbies.
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Old 11-01-2004, 09:27 PM   #8367
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Nipple,

Technically, torque = force x radius , work = force x distance
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Old 11-01-2004, 09:30 PM   #8368
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Default Front Bevel Gear

About the gear cracked problem, I believe somebody has mentioned in this tread before but in order to save some time fo me, can someone can tell me any solution for it.

I have the version 1.0 and also version 1.1, both also having the same problem.
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Old 11-01-2004, 09:37 PM   #8369
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Default Re: Front Bevel Gear

Quote:
Originally posted by BerNardLee
About the gear cracked problem, I believe somebody has mentioned in this tread before but in order to save some time fo me, can someone can tell me any solution for it.

I have the version 1.0 and also version 1.1, both also having the same problem.
hi bernard,
either we change to a front diff or we avoid banging the track barriers (very difficult to do so)
i was thinking of putting a front diff in next time i go to bk's track again...
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Old 11-01-2004, 09:40 PM   #8370
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Quote:
Originally posted by coastaltony
Way back someone mentioned using something to spread the opening a little. Try a little experimenting. The Schumacher Ball Grippa's are real nice. Part number is U1704K
Yeah....I should have listen, but back then....getting some of those cup I have to FLY to UK to get them, not untill I know KT is carrying them....

I think I will just order from KT and be done with it....thanks
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