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Old 10-04-2004, 02:13 PM   #7816
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RC Driver Gary:Tip Check out this tip from HPI Japan. The basic idea is to rotate the collars to control the vertical position.

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Old 10-04-2004, 02:25 PM   #7817
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Eric, what's your view on this. I posted a setup a couple weeks ago. It was awesome accept a traction roll problem.
I ran the same setup last weekend except changed to 5wt. heavier springs front and rear with the shocks laid over a lot (I think #1 tower and #2 a-arm, front and rear). Thanks to the handy dandy wheel weight chart that was posted I was only about 15-20 g/mm over the lighter springs. Anyway, the car was HOOKED UP! No traction roll. The rear just free enough to rotate tight corners off power, but locked in on power.
From an engineering point, do you think it was the heavier spring or the shock angle that stopped the traction roll?

Thanks
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Old 10-04-2004, 03:25 PM   #7818
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Thanks Erik and Others for the tips

Erik, I understand the OD of the foam will force changes to your gearing, what effect does it have on the handling though? Suspension setup wise? I havent measured them (and am at work now anyhow) but they are worn down to just above the level of where the sticker that goes on the outside of the tyre is. However this isnt really a factor now as it looks like I will need to buy a new set as the rears are no good

Also what are the main differences in a setup for foam as compared to rubber?


Also, from watching wolfracings car on sunday, what you describe is pretty much what is happening - the car gets a tad sideways on the exit of the corner then tucks back in and starts to slap around a bit.

cheers

Quote:
Originally posted by Erik Shauver
azenis: If you are running foams, we need to know the outer diameter of them. Also, I would start with robk's setup for foam tires. The car needs to be setup up differently for foams since the stock setting is aimed towards rubber tires. See the attachment for the last setup I have of his (or perhaps it is KevinK's?).

wolfracing: If you can be more specific, we'll be able to help you better. For instance if you describe it like "my car turns into the corner fine, but when I apply throttle coming out of the turn it spins out."

-E
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Old 10-04-2004, 04:58 PM   #7819
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Azenis....I was having the same issue as you are describing when I first went to foams outside. The car gets to be hard to drive coming out of the corner when the throttle is applied. If this is the same thing that you are experiencing. Some other things you might want to try is making the car transfer more weight to the rear tires on throttle. You can do this by leaning your rear shock in more on the tower.....going to bigger hole piston in the rear and lighter oil.....adding a little pro-squat to the rear of the car this will make the car turn in even harder when you make this adjustment so make a little change at a time. I played around with these things and it helped a bunch. Also take the sway bars off or go down in size. One thing that worked for me was also running a softer rear tire then in the front. When ever I ran the same duro tire or even like a 40duro tire in the rear it makes the car feel likes it almost drifting and never really puts the power down....going to like a 37 duro rear tire helps but the wear rate was something that I didn't like. So I ended up going to a stiffer front tire like a 45 duro just to make the rear tire statically softer compared to the front. More rear Toe in will help lock the rear end up better and making the rear camber link full long will slow down the rear end of the car as well....make it more of a controllable slide if it slides at all. But I was in the same boat as what you are talking about. If you look at the Rob K setup that Erik posted that will get you going in the right direction.
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Old 10-04-2004, 09:18 PM   #7820
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Just back from testing at the track for about 8 hours. Well, my Pro 4 is much much better than the last time I ran it, but I still have some issues:

When I put the car on scales, the right front is drastically less than the other three. I measured all 4 shocks, they are the same length. Also measured droop, spring length, checked that nothing was bent, and even rebuilt the shocks. I think I have a tweaked lower chassis plate. I did push down on the chassis with the top deck and tightened everything down in a star pattern...no improvement. Also backed the preload collars all the way up, marked the collar, counted revolutions, and made sure the preload was identical left to right, front to back, still major tweak. It does show up on track too where it turns in hard to the right, but is a bit lazy to the left.

Erik, did that, both setscrews point up.

Are you guys noticing the front dogbones to be soft and bend easily?

I felt like the car squared up really hard, harder than I would like it too. But I can't mount the rear shocks out on the arm because they'll hit the rims. Besides lowering the top mount, any ideas?

Thanks guys. Even with these issues I bested yesterday's tq on 3 runs by 8 seconds. Looking forward to tomorrow night with real race packs. My 18 month old practice packs didn't leave much to be desired though
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Old 10-04-2004, 09:20 PM   #7821
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KevinK- How've you been man!! Long time no see... whats up..
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Old 10-04-2004, 09:47 PM   #7822
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Hey Corey whats up man.....are you going to Cleveland this year? Im going to be there hope to see you there. Not much is going over here just playin with this Pro-4.
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Old 10-04-2004, 11:31 PM   #7823
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Default battery packs for the pro 4

Has anyone got pics of what type of battery setups they have on their pro 4? side by side or stick packs?
i tried to put a stick pack in but it doesnt fit
is the only way to solder side by side packs and use them?
Also wat are the best connectors to use? deans or trinity? any other ones?

thanks
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Old 10-04-2004, 11:53 PM   #7824
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You can use stick packs. Just flip over the battery bar so it's flat. And then loosen the body pin nuts if needed.
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Old 10-05-2004, 12:00 AM   #7825
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Angry Help -Annoying Problem

Track - Socal Raceway/Pro Stock
Problem- Car Loops around on Hard on power Left Handers
Solution- I have tried everything inside the box so please no ride height. Springs, Oil, Droop, Toe or anything that would be obvious think way outside the box and keep in mind it only happens when I push for fast STOCK lap at the track. I am running 2.5 rear toe not three and fairly stiff spings and no sway bars. I hate to have to go 3.0 in stock that seems like to much.

Any Ideas or anyone experience the same problem.

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Old 10-05-2004, 12:10 AM   #7826
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thanks for your help DOMOisCOOL, i have turned the battery bar upside down so its flat but the body pin nuts dont go through the holes anymore.

what am i doing wrong?

sorry if its a stupid question but i am a beginner
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Old 10-05-2004, 12:17 AM   #7827
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You might need to unscrew the screw that the body pin is inserted into.
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Old 10-05-2004, 12:21 AM   #7828
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Default Re: Help -Annoying Problem

Quote:
Originally posted by TRESFR
Track - Socal Raceway/Pro Stock
Problem- Car Loops around on Hard on power Left Handers
Solution- I have tried everything inside the box so please no ride height. Springs, Oil, Droop, Toe or anything that would be obvious think way outside the box and keep in mind it only happens when I push for fast STOCK lap at the track. I am running 2.5 rear toe not three and fairly stiff spings and no sway bars. I hate to have to go 3.0 in stock that seems like to much.

Any Ideas or anyone experience the same problem.

mark.. same thing happens to me on my car up in hesperia.. on power let handed turns. help!
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Old 10-05-2004, 12:29 AM   #7829
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Hello TREFSR and Hebiki,

Try to have more droop on the left rear tire.... I always run with 4mm on left and 5mm on right, this will make much of the torque steer disappear!
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Old 10-05-2004, 05:04 AM   #7830
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"I am running ellegi 40shore fronts (26mm) all round. We race on a asphalt school ground, and due to the crown on the surface for run-off of rain, most of the corners end out being a bit off camber. Other people are using 40shore tyres and seem to have success (with other chassis) so I am not 100% convinced that this is where I am losing traction (though one rear tyre was pretty tapered due to a previous bad wheel alignment with too much camber so maybe this is a contributing factor)"

You might want to try to cut down some 40 Rear tires to 26 or 28mm as well. I think actual rear tires will help you, as the rubber is a bit different. If you run a wider hex, like the 6.2mm or whatever it is, you may be able to get a 30mm tire on with the shock in the middle hole on the arm. That wider hex will get you at right about 190 with most rims. As a last resort, if you can get Eagle foam tires in your area, they are all 26mm.

ps. to all they guys running carpet/foam- The Kevin K setup kicks ass. I got away from it for a little bit, and now have come back. Try it and you'll see why.
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