Hpi Pro 4
#7801
need more GRIP
Having tried numerous setup sheets on my car and none of them work, I returned the car to one of the manual setups (there seem to be aabout 4 different versions of the manual with slight changes to the setup)
Car seemed to handle ok with plenty of turn, and it seemed reasonably neutral, not notably under or oversteering noticably, however it just seemed to not have any grip in the corners, 4 wheel drifting a bit more than I would have liked. At least it wasnt tank slapping like it has in the past and my friends was yesterday (with an ss5800) his car would come around the corner sideways and when throttle applied it would slap back and forth a bit)
I am running ellegi 40shore fronts (26mm) all round. We race on a asphalt school ground, and due to the crown on the surface for run-off of rain, most of the corners end out being a bit off camber. Other people are using 40shore tyres and seem to have success (with other chassis) so I am not 100% convinced that this is where I am losing traction (though one rear tyre was pretty tapered due to a previous bad wheel alignment with too much camber so maybe this is a contributing factor)
I have the standard black swaybars on at the moment, if I drop them down to the silver or copper ones or remove them all together, would this help me gain some traction? Any other suggestions?
I am finding it hard to pinpoint as the car doesnt seem to be losing traction on one particular end....
Car seemed to handle ok with plenty of turn, and it seemed reasonably neutral, not notably under or oversteering noticably, however it just seemed to not have any grip in the corners, 4 wheel drifting a bit more than I would have liked. At least it wasnt tank slapping like it has in the past and my friends was yesterday (with an ss5800) his car would come around the corner sideways and when throttle applied it would slap back and forth a bit)
I am running ellegi 40shore fronts (26mm) all round. We race on a asphalt school ground, and due to the crown on the surface for run-off of rain, most of the corners end out being a bit off camber. Other people are using 40shore tyres and seem to have success (with other chassis) so I am not 100% convinced that this is where I am losing traction (though one rear tyre was pretty tapered due to a previous bad wheel alignment with too much camber so maybe this is a contributing factor)
I have the standard black swaybars on at the moment, if I drop them down to the silver or copper ones or remove them all together, would this help me gain some traction? Any other suggestions?
I am finding it hard to pinpoint as the car doesnt seem to be losing traction on one particular end....
#7802
Tech Regular
try running 40F one front and 40 R on the back. i haev never tried th 40F all round, but have run 40R allround (on xray) makes the car super quick but unstable, so maybe the 40F would be doing the same thing.
try running 40F and 40R or even 37R on rear.
Rob
try running 40F and 40R or even 37R on rear.
Rob
#7803
OK
I thought the only difference between the front and rear foams was the width with fronts 26mm and rear 30mm, is the compound actually different despite the shore ratings being the same??
I thought the only difference between the front and rear foams was the width with fronts 26mm and rear 30mm, is the compound actually different despite the shore ratings being the same??
#7806
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Originally posted by azenis
OK
I thought the only difference between the front and rear foams was the width with fronts 26mm and rear 30mm, is the compound actually different despite the shore ratings being the same??
OK
I thought the only difference between the front and rear foams was the width with fronts 26mm and rear 30mm, is the compound actually different despite the shore ratings being the same??
Front compound generally have less side bite then rears, which answers the issue you have been having "drifiting", as carbon fibre said try 40F on the front and 40R on th rear.
You should be able to get both in 26mm & 30mm but stick to 26mm all round
Cheers
DZ
#7807
Tech Apprentice
I have the standard black swaybars on at the moment, if I drop them down to the silver or copper ones or remove them all together, would this help me gain some traction? Any other suggestions?
Also try replacing the oneway for a diff for an instant change in grip levels, it will make the car easier to drive, and not give so suddenly, however if you work on your set up a one-way will be faster.
You could try going to thinner shock oil (I am assuming you have kit 50) as this will produce more grip. And make sure your chassis is not grounding out becasue this will cause a lack of grip. Hope this helps. Jonathan
#7808
Did you not all that Nige?
No sways
Thinner oil
Tyres
althiugh my tires are working now, 42's fron, 35's rear.
This car is still a handfull tho.
No sways
Thinner oil
Tyres
althiugh my tires are working now, 42's fron, 35's rear.
This car is still a handfull tho.
#7809
The tyre explanation is nice advice thanks, it's noted
#7810
Tech Champion
iTrader: (42)
Does anyone have any pics or links to the Andy Moore UK race that just happened?
Who was it on this thread that was putting together a pro4 website...I had a question for you...please PM or AOL IM me at 'anthonyisla' Have some things for you.
not sure if this got lost in the shuffle earrlier.....
would anyone be interested in this shirt...i was having one made up for myself...but was thinking some other people might want one...
you can email if so that way i could get a rough estimate of how many i might make....[email protected]
Who was it on this thread that was putting together a pro4 website...I had a question for you...please PM or AOL IM me at 'anthonyisla' Have some things for you.
not sure if this got lost in the shuffle earrlier.....
would anyone be interested in this shirt...i was having one made up for myself...but was thinking some other people might want one...
you can email if so that way i could get a rough estimate of how many i might make....[email protected]
Last edited by Nexus; 10-04-2004 at 07:48 AM.
#7811
azenis: If you are running foams, we need to know the outer diameter of them. Also, I would start with robk's setup for foam tires. The car needs to be setup up differently for foams since the stock setting is aimed towards rubber tires. See the attachment for the last setup I have of his (or perhaps it is KevinK's?).
RC Driver Gary: As long as the pistons are 9.90mm OD (outer diameter), 2.0mm thick and have a 3mm inner diameter, they should fit just fine. I don't have any on hand, but I'm guessing they are very close. As for the sway bars, the extra collars help, but I never use them. I always set up the sway bars by tightening the set screws in very small increments. I always concentrate on the movement at the bend point on the bar. I keep tightening until then the bar no longer has up and down play when the suspension is articulated, but not so tight that bar doesn't rotate freely. After that, I adjust the link lengths until both sides produce an equal amount of lift for a given suspension arm movement. Also, I usually pinch the ball ends until everything is very loose (but with no slop). Last but not least, I'll slide the collars around to make sure the action from side to side is spot on (I usually check with a ride height and a droop gauge to raise the one side to a fixed amount and then measure the other side's height). Ask up if I'm not explaining it clearly (I'm still working on morning coffee ).
wolfracing: If you can be more specific, we'll be able to help you better. For instance if you describe it like "my car turns into the corner fine, but when I apply throttle coming out of the turn it spins out."
-E
RC Driver Gary: As long as the pistons are 9.90mm OD (outer diameter), 2.0mm thick and have a 3mm inner diameter, they should fit just fine. I don't have any on hand, but I'm guessing they are very close. As for the sway bars, the extra collars help, but I never use them. I always set up the sway bars by tightening the set screws in very small increments. I always concentrate on the movement at the bend point on the bar. I keep tightening until then the bar no longer has up and down play when the suspension is articulated, but not so tight that bar doesn't rotate freely. After that, I adjust the link lengths until both sides produce an equal amount of lift for a given suspension arm movement. Also, I usually pinch the ball ends until everything is very loose (but with no slop). Last but not least, I'll slide the collars around to make sure the action from side to side is spot on (I usually check with a ride height and a droop gauge to raise the one side to a fixed amount and then measure the other side's height). Ask up if I'm not explaining it clearly (I'm still working on morning coffee ).
wolfracing: If you can be more specific, we'll be able to help you better. For instance if you describe it like "my car turns into the corner fine, but when I apply throttle coming out of the turn it spins out."
-E
#7812
Tech Champion
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by rc-zombies
Use Dubro collars to keep the sway bars from moving left & right.
GS makes Purple collars
Use Dubro collars to keep the sway bars from moving left & right.
GS makes Purple collars