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Old 09-07-2004, 03:23 PM   #7411
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put a degree or two of front toe-in to reduce initial steering!
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Old 09-07-2004, 03:36 PM   #7412
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Does anyone know how much weight you would save by going with the smaller bearing adapters and smaller bearings?
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Old 09-07-2004, 03:39 PM   #7413
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Quote:
Originally posted by brushless
Does anyone know how much weight you would save by going with the smaller bearing adapters and smaller bearings?
not a whole lot... the smaller bearing may be more trouble some if you hit the boards...they are not so durable compared to the stock bearings. Stay with the stock bearings and you'll have peace of mind on finish the races.
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Old 09-07-2004, 06:44 PM   #7414
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Hi I need help with setup. My local track ahs a high speed chicane. I cant seem to get through the corner without the rear end sliding out. I have pretty much the stock setup except for no sway bars and a softer rear end. I am running on a dusty ashpalt surface. Any help would be really appreciated.

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Old 09-07-2004, 07:55 PM   #7415
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how do u guys get the wiggling of the beveled gear out of the rear diff? what im referring to is the play between the outdrives and the diff gear, is making the gear mesh tighter at one piont as its not spining true.

will putting washers in between help/
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Old 09-07-2004, 07:58 PM   #7416
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Yes, as the manual states, you have to play around with the shims to get the proper spacing/mesh.
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Old 09-07-2004, 08:40 PM   #7417
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hey guys.. im finally gonn aload some electronics in this thing and try it out. anybody have a setup for carpet? maybe rubber tire? thanks in advance...
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Old 09-07-2004, 08:43 PM   #7418
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Hi all,

I just plan to buy the shaft driven car.
Along many choices up to now the things left are for :
HPI Pro4, TB-Evo IV, MR4TC SD-SSG, Cuda R3 and latest TC4

My question is :
Based on your personal experience what's the real downside with the Pro 4 (technically) ?

I really appreciate if you can share your exp. with me since I'm junior to this EP shaft-driven car.


Rgds,
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Old 09-07-2004, 08:51 PM   #7419
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Chris - Try also lowering the ride height. Make the front and rear ride height level. If you want to reduce stearing have the rear lower than the front.
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Old 09-07-2004, 08:56 PM   #7420
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I have had mine for a while and I am slowly building it. The only problems that I have encountered are that the front steering knuckles are tight-fitting in the C-hubs, but its easy to remedy this. The other happened this weekend. One of my shock caps did not have the treads cut deep enough into it so it would seal up the shock. I called HPI today and the are sending me a new part today. Other than that the car is really good. Really smooth drivetrain and fit and finish of everything alse is great. I can't wait to run the car. The only other car I was considering was the new Tamiya Evo-4. The price difference was the deciding factor. I have been running Tamiya cars for a couple of years, ever since I got rid of my Pro-2. Oh ya, I did had a FT TC3, didn't like it. So far the Pro-4 is a great TC.
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Old 09-07-2004, 09:27 PM   #7421
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Wes, Pro4 . I am surprised!! Thats cool!!! Welcome to the world of PURPLE. I would look at the setup from the DHI Cup in the back of the manual that Hara ran. That will give you a great starting point. BTW, where are you going to be running carpet at? I didnt think Tulsa had any carpet tracks any more or are you guys going to Springfield? If you decide to try foams hollar at me. You guys should try to come up in a few weeks to Hutch and race on the carpet with us.
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Old 09-07-2004, 09:35 PM   #7422
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Doug - Eaves mentioned to me that he wanted to go run up in Hutch at y'all's new carpet track. Sounds like a good time. I think I'm going to end up in Springfield this weekend, but hopefully, we'll all caravan up there in the next month or so. Got a schedule (times, days, etc) you can provide us with?

Rob
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Old 09-07-2004, 09:49 PM   #7423
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"shortening the wheelbase will only make the situation worse, as its ment for tight twisty tracks when you need more steering by transfering weight to the front. I have too much steering i think."

No, lengthening the car will make it steer a lot. By shortening the car, you make more weight "overhang" on the rear end, adding traction. Shortening may make the car be able to transition more quickly, but you won't get looseness.

Raising the link will add traction. Better yet, put a .75 or 1mm spacer at the hub, raising your ballstud. That will add traction.
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Old 09-08-2004, 12:40 AM   #7424
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Quote:
Originally posted by robk
[B

No, lengthening the car will make it steer a lot. By shortening the car, you make more weight "overhang" on the rear end, adding traction. Shortening may make the car be able to transition more quickly, but you won't get looseness[/B]
what would i do without forums!, i shortened my wheelbase with the prp chassis thinking i'd get more steering

can someone just double confirm that this is true? LONG WHEELBASE= MORE STEERING
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Old 09-08-2004, 12:53 AM   #7425
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Depends if you are adjusting the wheelbase by moving the hubs forward or back within the a-arm, or moving the entre rear (or front) gearbox assembly back and forward.

If you are only changing the spacers in the a-arm, you are moving the wheels forward or backwards relative to the main weight in the car (the gearbox and suspension) and this changes the balance of where the weight is. If you move the entire assembly, which I believe you are doing with the PRP chassis, this is a true wheelbase adjustment and longer will be more stable, shorter more steering, as the balance of weight over the wheels remains constant.
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