R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-05-2004, 08:17 AM   #7381
Tech Elite
 
Nipple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Kallang Airport
Posts: 2,030
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Re: tunning note

Quote:
Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
JUST A QUICK TUNNING TIP THAT I WAS TOLD AT THE TRACK TODAY, VERY USEFUL.

i was told by one of the more experience racers today the following;

PROBLEM;
with my new PRP chassis the car's rear end stuck too much, leaving the front to understeer entering corners. the car exited well but did not rotate enough around the corner or during mid corner. I HAD TO SLOW DOWN TO MUCH TO GET THE DESIRED ROTATION THROUGH A CORNER.

REMEDY;
i was told to place spacers under the camber links on the chassis side of the link. ie make the links more horizontal. i was currently running no spacers on the ballcups closest to the chassis.
i placed 3 washers at the rear (equaling 2.5mm lift) this instantly made the car rotate around the corners much better and eliminated almost all understeer.

PRP CHASSIS SO FAR?
i found the chassis to work fine on a dusty track. infact it felt better than the stock HPI setup. the car was alot more responsive to initial steering input and all signs of exit understeer have disapeared. i have found though that it was neccessary for me to place the stock swaybar at the rear (black). i was also running the short wheel base.
That means to reduce camber change?
Nipple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2004, 03:31 AM   #7382
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 26
Default

1. Has anyone tried the titanium F/R input shafts from square
2. How durable/strong is titanium compared to steel
rudster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2004, 03:36 AM   #7383
Tech Champion
 
JDM_DOHC_SiR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Chula Vista, CA
Posts: 9,016
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by rudster
1. Has anyone tried the titanium F/R input shafts from square
2. How durable/strong is titanium compared to steel

I use them right now... but I have swiched over to the Rear Alloy one from square that has the spur mount/shaft as one pieceAs far as Durability.I have not had one problem with the Alloy or Ti ones what so ever
-Dave
__________________
Ȼ4.5 Centro+α ◊ ȻT4.5 Centro+α ◊ TRF 501ӽ ◊ TRF 502ӽs ◊ TRF 503 ◊ TRF 511 ◊ TRF 201ӽr ◊ TRF 211ӽ
B5m ◊ T5m ◊ B64d
Speedway PAL ◊ SDRC ◊ Shop UFO ◊ SMC
JDM_DOHC_SiR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2004, 06:04 AM   #7384
Tech Adept
 
kevin2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Kenosha,WI
Posts: 141
Send a message via AIM to kevin2
Default

do i call hpi customer service to order version 1.1 gears?
kevin2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2004, 06:07 AM   #7385
Tech Master
 
azenis's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 1,478
Default

kevin2
go the dancing Strong Bad!!
__________________
Nige
===========================================================
X-Ray T4 '14 | 3Racing Sakura D3 CS | Durango DEX410v4 | HPI Blitz | Tamiya WR-02 VW Bus
azenis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2004, 09:12 AM   #7386
Tech Apprentice
 
pro4racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: bromley uk
Posts: 85
Default

hi

i want to get mty pro4 drive train more free and consistant can anyone tell how to do this ive just purchases acer ceramic diff balls as this will make the diff smoother.

im on a budget of 30 quid can any1 help
pro4racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2004, 09:16 AM   #7387
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: England (UK)
Posts: 440
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by pro4racer
hi

i want to get mty pro4 drive train more free and consistant can anyone tell how to do this ive just purchases acer ceramic diff balls as this will make the diff smoother.

im on a budget of 30 quid can any1 help
Flush the bearings out and oil them with then oil like royal oil

Chazz
Chazz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2004, 09:27 AM   #7388
Tech Apprentice
 
pro4racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: bromley uk
Posts: 85
Default

ok thanks ill try that

is there any other ways on getting my chassis to spin free for atleast 10 seconds without spending money.
pro4racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2004, 09:30 AM   #7389
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: England (UK)
Posts: 440
Default

you could shim the gears but i don't really know how to

Chazz
Chazz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2004, 09:51 AM   #7390
Tech Addict
 
JohnB's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Oregon City, Or
Posts: 674
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Yes, mine spins about that long and I have all stock components. Bearings are a good start. I use denatured alcohol in a jewlery cleaner and one drop of 5wt. sythetic motor oil. I also remove the shield from one side. If you do this, make sure you always put the side without the shielf towards the inside of the car.

To shim the diffs.
Put the diff and bevel gear in. Check the side play of the diff gear, just move it side to side and check the backlash of the outdrive gear. For backlash, hold the diff gear and wiggle the bevel gear.
If the side play is to much, add a shim. If there to much backlash, add the shim to the side that will tighten the backlash (or move the diff gear closer to the bevel gear)

When you get it just right there should hardly no side to side movement of the diff gear. The backlash of the bevel gear should feel about the same as your spur/pinion gear mesh.

Make sense? Kinda hard to explain.
It takes a little time, but worth it. Just be careful when you clean the car to get everything back in the same place.
Also, I use a couple drops X-1R lubricant on the gear. You can get it at any automotive place. Grease on the gears make them sticky.

take care
john
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2004, 09:54 AM   #7391
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 69
Default

If you are desperate to have your drivetrain spin for a long time just clean everything ou good and proper, there may be a little notchy feeling in some of the bearings (ideally they need replacing) spend a few dollars and replace the knackered ones. Then put the car back togeather applying alot of diff grease to the bevel and diff gears so that the contact between them is smooth. then find an old motor and leave it on turnig the over on about half trim for a full battery pack (3300's are the best) with the wheels spinning. When you take the motor off you should easily be able to spin the wheels for 10 seconds. If you still can't then you have done some thing wrong. I have found that some wheels I put on used to catch on the rear hub carrier camber link, I thought something was seriously wrong, nut after looking a bit closer and taking a fille to the cup it was fine and spins free. Hope this helps. Jonathan
jonny69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2004, 09:58 AM   #7392
Tech Apprentice
 
pro4racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: bromley uk
Posts: 85
Default

ok thanks ill try that when he sais back lash what does that mean
pro4racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2004, 10:08 AM   #7393
Tech Addict
 
JohnB's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Oregon City, Or
Posts: 674
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Backlash:
Where your drive shaft comes into the diff case. How much slop that has in it is the backlash. Hold the outdrives or diff gear and wiggle the center drive shaft without a motor in it. That is the backlash. You can adjust that with shims by moving the diff gear closer or further away from the bevel gear.
I don't remember how much there is with the stock shims, just a adjustment I got use to checking with the TC3.
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2004, 10:20 AM   #7394
Tech Addict
 
JohnB's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Oregon City, Or
Posts: 674
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Maybe this will help. Add a shim where the red arrow is to tighten the backlash (or gear mesh).
Remember you are shimming the side to side movement of the diff assembly and changing the backlash whenever you add a shim to one side.
It's really not that difficult. Once you play it a little, it will make sense.

Gotta go to the track now. Email if your still having problems and I'll talk with ya tonight.


take care
john

Attached Images
File Type: jpg pro4_pg15.jpg (77.4 KB, 248 views)
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2004, 11:36 AM   #7395
Tech Adept
 
kevin2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Kenosha,WI
Posts: 141
Send a message via AIM to kevin2
Default

what do u think will make more of of a difference having the car ballenced or having really light? i did get it ballanced but i can take the wieght off.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg picture 041.jpg (62.5 KB, 322 views)
kevin2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:26 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0