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Old 08-25-2004, 03:34 PM   #7201
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does any one know how much the prp chassis conversion is for the pro4
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Old 08-25-2004, 03:35 PM   #7202
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www.teamprp.com
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Old 08-25-2004, 03:59 PM   #7203
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Quote:
Originally posted by pro4racer
does any one know how much the prp chassis conversion is for the pro4
Its listed on the site for $123.95 USD......


The Teacher......Yes I am running the #1 hole on the steering plate. Im not 100% sure on the width of my car I will measure it and get back to you for that measurement. I know that in the rear of the car I have all the spacers and the stock clamping hex.....up front Im running a TC3 hex so Im not sure what that makes the width.
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Old 08-25-2004, 11:17 PM   #7204
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Hey I got a chance to run tonight, and i tried a change with the width of the car. So since we're on the subject, I had some sucess with a slightly wider rear end than front. I removed 2mm total from the front end. This helped the steering a lot. I know a lot of guys had a similar result when they narrowed the front of the XXXS, so that seems consisent with tthis result.

front = about 186mm
rear = about 188mm
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Old 08-26-2004, 12:30 AM   #7205
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Quote:
Originally posted by robk
Hey I got a chance to run tonight, and i tried a change with the width of the car. So since we're on the subject, I had some sucess with a slightly wider rear end than front. I removed 2mm total from the front end. This helped the steering a lot. I know a lot of guys had a similar result when they narrowed the front of the XXXS, so that seems consisent with tthis result.

front = about 186mm
rear = about 188mm
so what were the results more steering? when? mid early exit of corner?
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Old 08-26-2004, 05:19 AM   #7206
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At our State race this past week end, Hara was running Wide hexes in the front and the stock slim ones on the rear. I asked him Why did he have it like that and he told me the car was easier to drive like that. He also highly recomended that I do the top plate mod. The guys was very atentive with all of my questions and he was just an all around great guy.
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Old 08-26-2004, 05:50 AM   #7207
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Thanks Kevin K and robk, I just started building my car for the carpet season and I was looking for a good setup to start with. Are you guys running the 3mm chassis, what do you think of them?
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Old 08-26-2004, 06:39 AM   #7208
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hi does anyone know any good setups and tips to get good traction on a dusty wooden surface as thats what i race on at the moment.

i use shumacher yellow minipins tyres the narrow ones and also the kit pro3 springs as they are quite soft is there anything else
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Old 08-26-2004, 07:06 AM   #7209
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Quote:
Originally posted by pro4racer
hi does anyone know any good setups and tips to get good traction on a dusty wooden surface as thats what i race on at the moment.

i use shumacher yellow minipins tyres the narrow ones and also the kit pro3 springs as they are quite soft is there anything else
You could try the Pro4 blue springs at the rear which are slightly softer than the kit silvers.

Prob is that Dusty surfaces lack grip so it can come down to controlling the power ... have the other guys at the track got the same prob? What tyres are they using as tyres is most of the battle..!
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Old 08-26-2004, 08:43 AM   #7210
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every one uses shumacher yellow minipins and some1 else has got the same car as me and his is really fast and never slides out .

i started using green springs as they are quite soft but some1 said use the kit springs for the pro3 as they are that bit softer
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Old 08-26-2004, 09:40 AM   #7211
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If the other guy is really quick then ask him for some setup tips, see what he's running insert wise etc.
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Old 08-26-2004, 09:41 AM   #7212
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Quote:
Originally posted by robk
Racer, try the handy dandy KevinK setup. Works great.

"Ok here is a setup to start with on Foam tires carpet.

Front
#3 pistons
45wt oil
HPI Pink Springs #6759 30.2 LBS Or Losi White 30 lbs
1 Hole in on the shock tower from all the way out
Inside hole on the lower arm
1 deg toe block
2mm shim under the rear front block
1.5mm shims under the front block.....Anti Dive for the front arms
6 deg castor blocks
1 hole for akerman plate
Forward hole on the steering knuckle
Inner hole for upper ball stud....1mm under ball stud
Black Sway bar....1.6mm with 2.7mm showing on the tips

Rear
#3 Pistons
40wt oil
HPI Red Spring #6754 24.2 Lbs Or Losi Black 25 lbs
All the way out on the rear tower "stood up"
1 in on the lower arm
2 deg toe block
1 mm shim under rear rear block
1.5mm shims under front rear block....Anti-squat in the rear
**this is for the PRP chassis, where you have an extra wheelbase adjustment. Just run your car as long as possible***
Standard location for for arms as far as wheel base goes....this is a track dependent adjustment. Play with it and see how you like it
Rear hub stock spacing....big shim in the rear
Hub ball stud on the inside hole
Inner ball stud on the inside hole
.75mm under inner ball stud
Silver sway bar....1.4mm with nothing extra past the link
5mm rideheight all the way around......

Tires TM Racing Plaid2's and Magenta's 2.30"dia
33/104 with Binary Stock motor with 100 ft Straight
Losi Alfa Body

If there is anything that I missed or messed up just ask ...lol.
What are the camber and droop settings?
Which chassis and top plate?
Which front drive: Diff / One-way / Spool?
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Old 08-26-2004, 10:40 AM   #7213
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how much grip does your dusty floor have assmuing its a low grip floor iv always found that removing tire inserts and removing dropp screws gets the car to roll really well, basicly what i try and do indoor is get the car to roll as much as i can without actuyally fliping over. A higher ride hight would be good and also iv found on mny surface that narrow mini pins give more grip than wides
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Old 08-26-2004, 01:25 PM   #7214
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Quote:
Originally posted by pucho
At our State race this past week end, Hara was running Wide hexes in the front and the stock slim ones on the rear. I asked him Why did he have it like that and he told me the car was easier to drive like that. He also highly recomended that I do the top plate mod. The guys was very atentive with all of my questions and he was just an all around great guy.
Hi Pucho,

Can you clarify about the Top plate modification ?

I guess the wide hexes you are talking about are the optional one ?

thanks,
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Old 08-26-2004, 02:14 PM   #7215
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The top deck modification involves drilling the 4 inner holes which screw into the bulkheads so that you can get the head of the screw in the hole. Then use a button head screw instead of a countersunk one.
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