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Old 08-22-2004, 01:42 PM   #7126
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Originally posted by DOMOisCOOL
Ramon, you heading out to the free race at SW on Sept. 4 (Saturday)?
If I don't do anywhere that weekend.. I'll be there for sure.. would be nice to meet other racers on the this forum...
the Last time SWR had a free race.. be prepared to arrive very early...you might have trouble getting pit space and shade

I wonder if Billy's going to BBQ some dogs and burgers like last time.... that was one big party and racing inbetween..
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Old 08-22-2004, 01:43 PM   #7127
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Originally posted by rc-zombies

oh btw...did you guys remove .5mm arm mount spacer to adjust the difference going from 2.5 to 3mm chassis?
The thing is with that is that you cant take out the .5mm arm mount without adjusting the kickup, because only one of the pivotblocks has a .5 underneith it. Do you see what im getting at?
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Old 08-22-2004, 01:50 PM   #7128
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Originally posted by rustler753
well i ask a very profound question of you HPI people and all i got was ....dude ask some other guy...who which i never heard of. I never really had my question answered and passing my question off to some other guy was not what I was looking for. Now that my question is on the other page I bet no one will see it and thus my question is reasonably dead.
I know what you are going through. I did the same thing a few weeks ago. I went with the HPI mostly because of parts support and the shaft drive. I ran a TC3 before also.

I followed the Xray thread for a few days and saw a few post about parts being hard to get. One guy at our local track runs the Xray and does very good. He said it cost a lot just to rebuild the diffs. I know the car is good, but for me just not what I want (read belt drive) or have to chase around online shops to find parts.

I ran my Pro 4 for the first time yesterday. The car was awesome!! I used part of the Hara setup in the book (carpet), part of Garners setup on the HPI setup and part of my own from my TC3 that I know works on our track.

After one 1 run moved the front shocks out one hole, dropped the inner rear camber link 1.5mm and that was it!! The car was on rails and with a PT 10x1 was a rocket out of the corners!!
I thought my TC3 was very forgiving to drive, but I could throw this car into the corners very hard and it stuck.

take care
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Old 08-22-2004, 02:27 PM   #7129
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Ah...
wait!

BMI chassis is thicker by.5mm? so the ride height will be lower by that much when i instlal it. Because i only have the shocktowers and upperdeck installed for outdoors at the moment!
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Old 08-22-2004, 03:25 PM   #7130
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thank you, well at least some people gave me some decent answers, i appreciate it.
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Old 08-22-2004, 04:01 PM   #7131
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rustler,I also think that car choice also depends on what class you plan on running,Mod asphalt my pick would be the Xray,It's a bit easier to drive.. Mod carpet..it would again be the Xray,Stock asphalt the only choice is the Pro4.At my local track I'm about a lap faster than any other car in stock(it's the car)In 19/mod, middle of the pack,the Pro 4 is fast and I mean really fast,sometimes it can be a handfull if your really not up on it,I dont have the best motors and batterys,but no ones 19 turn car at my track is faster than my Pro4..
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Old 08-22-2004, 04:39 PM   #7132
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Yeah you have to get the pivot block spacer set that includes 1mm spacers, as well as 2mm and .5mm ones.


Quote:
Originally posted by X2
The thing is with that is that you cant take out the .5mm arm mount without adjusting the kickup, because only one of the pivotblocks has a .5 underneith it. Do you see what im getting at?
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Old 08-22-2004, 05:41 PM   #7133
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rc-zombies,Are you going to use the BMI chassis for carpet?In my testing I thought that with out the the thin spacer in the rear the car does not rotate as well in to the corners,I have also found that the car(with the BMI chassis)did not really like the stock rear block(3)I'm running the 2 right now and the car is really starting to come around now,I have also been trying different body's out as well,ran the CTS last night..wow what a huge difference over the mazda 6, car is not darty now,seemed really planted last night,real good turn in and alot of steering exitting the corner,seemed like it also had good traction in the rear.The HPI aero stratus works fair(just an opinion)I am very close on the BMI car but I think the 2mm or stock chassis for a parking lot track is the way to go.. 3mm is just to stiff.
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Old 08-22-2004, 05:42 PM   #7134
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Just came back from the race.

1st Heat: I was really fast around the track. Was 1st or 2nd for quite a long time. Then one of my battery bars decided to come off, causing me to DNF.

2nd Heat: Not as fast as first heat but still running good till one of my Trinity connectors desoldered by itself. DNF again.

3rd Heat: Was trailing everyone but came back up. No problems with the car. Finished 3rd

A Main: Everything was going great, was on a pace of 4th place or so. Near the end of the main, I took a big hit somewhere. The transponder plug came off and the rear shaft cup broke off (3rd time it happened this season ). I have no clue if I finished or not. They usually post the results on the site 1-2 days later...

Anyone know why I break so many drive cups? The assembly is perfectly shimmed...
Maybe it's time to get some aluminum drive cups?

By the way, anyone have tips for a loose rear end? I'm using stock setup (silver springs) with 5.5mm droop at 5.5mm ride height with Take Off CS-22 tires.

Last edited by DOMOisCOOL; 08-22-2004 at 06:10 PM.
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Old 08-22-2004, 09:22 PM   #7135
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Indoor track or outdoor,If your running outdoors, whats the temp this time of the year in the bay? Down here in the valley we dont even think about 22's till about nov.. On the drive cups I have never broken one but I run stock and 19 turn most of the time.If I broke one the next day I would had have the alum. ones on my car.
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Old 08-22-2004, 11:08 PM   #7136
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Track temp was around 100F-105F on the root beer. I was overheating the tires just a bit.
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Old 08-22-2004, 11:45 PM   #7137
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Quote:
Originally posted by xxxkat
rc-zombies,Are you going to use the BMI chassis for carpet?In my testing I thought that with out the the thin spacer in the rear the car does not rotate as well in to the corners,I have also found that the car(with the BMI chassis)did not really like the stock rear block(3)I'm running the 2 right now and the car is really starting to come around now,I have also been trying different body's out as well,ran the CTS last night..wow what a huge difference over the mazda 6, car is not darty now,seemed really planted last night,real good turn in and alot of steering exitting the corner,seemed like it also had good traction in the rear.The HPI aero stratus works fair(just an opinion)I am very close on the BMI car but I think the 2mm or stock chassis for a parking lot track is the way to go.. 3mm is just to stiff.
yes I'll mostly use the BMI chassis for carpet only... 3mm on asphalt is way to stiff. I may get the thinner 2mm chassis sometime soon.
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Old 08-23-2004, 12:53 AM   #7138
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Quote:
Originally posted by DOMOisCOOL
Track temp was around 100F-105F on the root beer. I was overheating the tires just a bit.
DOMO - i don't at all drive a Pro4 but I like to follow this thread... anyway, consider getting some fresh CS27's because CS22's will undoubtedly overheat during these sunday day races. I have some CS27's and 32's i'm willing to donate... talk to me next time at RCTECH

Marc
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Old 08-23-2004, 12:55 AM   #7139
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What's up Marc? This is Andrew (Pro 4 with green/white body), sounds great. Thanks. Too bad the next RC Tech race is like 2-3 weeks away.
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Old 08-23-2004, 01:17 AM   #7140
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Hi All

My Pro4 has been ballistic since I got it ... but then this weekend it really went south. I have been driving with two diffs since I got the car but after some other drivers using one-ways at my track started getting faster I decided to change to a one-way. Well my car was so loose on power coming out of corners and mid corner, so I changed to a spool to give me the benefits of a one way but able to break at hairpins. The same problem car loose on power out of corners and mid. The rear of the car would not follow the front.

I guess my question is when running a one-way or spool should the rear of the car be loose on acceleration out of corners?? I drove a friends Pro4 and his was fine. I thought maybe my rear diff was slipping so tightened it ... still no cigar ... I am at a loss and think I will have to go back to diff as no matter what I changed car was awful ... it was just drifting and sliding into all corners and out.

Sorry about the essay ... hope someone out there has some advice.

Thanks
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