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Old 08-16-2004, 09:48 AM   #6916
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
...Is that time that I need to learn how to cut the comm and buy myself a $200 motor lathe...? Or, I should go brushless....
have one of the fast guys check your motor.. gearing, brushes, timing, comm etc.
if you go Brushless...will your track let you run Brushless along with the std. mod motors?

in the meantime... a lathe is benificial if you'll be running mod. You want those expensive motors running and maintained all the time.
if you need a mod lathe..lmk...I have one available... Cobra lathe, w/diamond bit, drivemotor, and 4 cell power base. PM if you're interested...
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Old 08-16-2004, 12:22 PM   #6917
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Rookie Solara, check your rear diff and make sure it is fully tight as well.
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Old 08-16-2004, 12:30 PM   #6918
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Rookie if you run mod a com lathe is a Must Have not a should I have item..Unless you can buy a new motor say every 3 or 4 runs.. I have a D5 10x2 that I have to cut(skim)every 2 runs or its just not fast,I have other motors that dont need to be cut as often(4 runs)but rather than toast the motor I still cut them every 2 runs..welcome to the world of mod racing..and buy your brushes in 12 packs..
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Old 08-16-2004, 01:13 PM   #6919
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nexus
now i'm realizing my jr racing z8450 doesn't really fit in the pro4...the ears on the servo don't line out with the servo mounts.
Our servo mount holes on our HTS chassis have more adjustment in them
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Old 08-16-2004, 01:50 PM   #6920
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Quote:
Originally posted by coastaltony
I'll sell you a Twister lathe for $100.00.
I will think about that........not the $$$...I don't even how to use a lathe, I need someone to show me and make sure I know how to CUT (or damage) a comm before I buy antyhing....thanks
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Old 08-16-2004, 01:52 PM   #6921
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Quote:
Originally posted by Doug Gaut
Rookie Solara, check your rear diff and make sure it is fully tight as well.
Actually, a very good point, my rear diff, was set, very SMOOTH, but loose..........you said FULLY Tight.....you didn't mean LOCK that tight..? Are you saying make sure it still spin but not complete SLIPPING loose...? Please advise....thanks
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Old 08-16-2004, 01:55 PM   #6922
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Quote:
Originally posted by xxxkat
Rookie if you run mod a com lathe is a Must Have not a should I have item..Unless you can buy a new motor say every 3 or 4 runs.. I have a D5 10x2 that I have to cut(skim)every 2 runs or its just not fast,I have other motors that dont need to be cut as often(4 runs)but rather than toast the motor I still cut them every 2 runs..welcome to the world of mod racing..and buy your brushes in 12 packs..
Exactly the same reason I ditched elect and head NITRO...........but again, I have to play with PLUGS and needle setting on NITRO.................so, just another things I have to learn.

But compare to like 1980 (when I was still racing elect)...now a day, I don't have to worry about TEAM DRIVER ONLY ESC or TEAM DRIVER 1200SCR pro-match batteries..............I just need to worry about the MOTOR itself cause I can get the rest of the stuff on the shelfs from LHS.
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Old 08-16-2004, 02:14 PM   #6923
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Rookie Solara, on the diff what I mean is that if you have the car on a table and you hold the rear tires and push down on the car so that the front tires cannot turn you should not be able to turn the spur gear at all. Sometimes a slightly loose diff will not be all that noticeable but the car will lag coming out of corners. I hear ya on the diff being free. Even locked my diffs spin super smooth and have since the car was new.

A twister lathe would be a welcome addition. I have had one for many years and would not know what to do without it. I did buy a Trinity diamond bit for it and it works great.

If you are running mod a great addition would be a Revolution motor! I was skeptical but after having one for some time now I dont like to run my other makes of mods just because of the maintainance. With the D5 and the TI I was cutting every 2-3 runs and replacing brushes every 4-6 runs. On the Revolution motors I am cutting the comm once a day and am still on the original brushes after 20+ runs.
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Old 08-16-2004, 02:56 PM   #6924
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I will take note about the Lathe...

However, REVOLUTION motor...what is the brand?
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Old 08-16-2004, 03:13 PM   #6925
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yea...rookie..get the lathe...i'll show you how to cut with my comms first! LOL

next season i plan to run Orion Revolution mod motors in my Pro4 as well....less maintenence.

Team Orion/Peak
http://teamorion.com/
http://peakmotors.com/

rookie...don't worry...howard can get them!


ben/team prp....i will take a look at kevs chassis. i would actually like to test the stock 2.5mm chassis and a 3mm top deck.
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Old 08-16-2004, 03:18 PM   #6926
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I will take note about the Lathe...

However, REVOLUTION motor...what is the brand?
The V2/Revolution is a new Mod Motor Technology developed by Orion, also sold under the PEAK name... (will also be available for stock motors soon)... The technology is actually in the end-bell design... different than your standard stand-up and lay-down end-bells...

this new design has been proven to create better motor performance and less motor wear per run... very efficient...

I'm gonna start running more Mod Sedan in the coming race season and the Revo editions will be my motors of choice...
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Old 08-16-2004, 05:26 PM   #6927
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since we have been talking about them, what is the difference between a lathe for stock and a lathe for mod motors?
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Old 08-16-2004, 05:29 PM   #6928
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Quote:
Originally posted by azenis
since we have been talking about them, what is the difference between a lathe for stock and a lathe for mod motors?
now there is only one type of lathe...since both mod and stock are now rebuildable.
before there was stock and mod lathes... the stock lathe let you cut the com with fixed endbells.
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Old 08-16-2004, 05:39 PM   #6929
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Ahh thanks for that RC ZOMBIES

Does anyone know of any brands to steer clear of??

And to keep this pro4 related, i seem to have a gear mesh problem with my back gear box

got the shims mounted like this
spur/bearing/1 shim/spacer in gearcase/2 shims/bearing/bevel gear

Whenever I launch or brake it crunches and the gears slip

Should I put all 3 shims in the back position? Only trouble with that is my thicker than standard spur gear then JUST touches the chassis plate

I have a set of the 1.1 gears in my tool box, If I fitted them would that fix the problem? Do the 1.1 gears need boiling?
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Old 08-16-2004, 05:48 PM   #6930
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Quote:
Originally posted by azenis
Ahh thanks for that RC ZOMBIES

Does anyone know of any brands to steer clear of??

And to keep this pro4 related, i seem to have a gear mesh problem with my back gear box

got the shims mounted like this
spur/bearing/1 shim/spacer in gearcase/2 shims/bearing/bevel gear

Whenever I launch or brake it crunches and the gears slip

Should I put all 3 shims in the back position? Only trouble with that is my thicker than standard spur gear then JUST touches the chassis plate

I have a set of the 1.1 gears in my tool box, If I fitted them would that fix the problem? Do the 1.1 gears need boiling?
stay away from Trinity lathes... cuts aren't very smooth.
best lathes to get.. Cobra, Hudy, Fantom, Orion, Integy,
Twister is an oldy but goody.

1.1 gears...I haven't boiled mine and don't think there is a need since it's thicker.
adjust the shims on the diff. try putting all three on the back of the diff gear.
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