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Old 08-13-2004, 11:57 AM   #6901
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Is this a correct theory about racing OUTDOOR and INDOOR?

Racing outdoor (tracking always lower then indoor carpet), using the stock 2mm chassis and upper deck is good enough (no need to use optional 3mm chassis), and TWEAK is a good thing to have, so the 4 screws MOD is a good thing to have as well....

Racing indoor carpet (tracking always higher then outdoor asphelt), using the optional 3mm chassis with option upper deck and made the chassis more rigid, and TWEAK is NOT a good thing to have, so the 4 screws MOD is NOT required....

Correct me if I am wrong.....
That's what my thoughts are too....

for carpet.. the mod can still be done to prevent any chassis tweek... but with the 3mm chassis...its's virtually impossible to twist it by hand...super rigid.
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Old 08-13-2004, 07:48 PM   #6902
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When raising the roll center of the pro4, what's the difference between raising the suspension arms and lowering the upper cambers links? Can you do either one with the same effect as long as you end up with the same roll center, or would one differ from the other in tems of effect on handling? Thaks guys.
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Old 08-13-2004, 08:23 PM   #6903
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Default TWEAK

Tweak.. as used in R/C chassis tuning... is not a suspension/chassis tuning aide

TWEAK is a bad thing!!!... most commonly reffered to when a chassis takes a hard hit (form either a collision or hitting a track barrier with extreme force, etc.) and resulting in ill-handling characteristics... i-ll handling meaning different from what was before the 'hard hit'...

this said tweak is induced by the 'hard hit', but depending the chassis' structural design (dual-deck chassis' are common victims of holding a tweak) the tweak can be temporarily held/retained by the chassis... until dis-assembly and re-assembly of the chassis has been done, or other remedy...

this upperdeck mod is done to reduce the chance of a possible tweak to be retained...

tweak can also come from other places on a chassis,... (bent shock shafts, bent hinge pins, screws coming loose, a dirty bearing).. I guess you could think of TWEAK as a state of being out of balance, from what you know as being normal...

whew,,, hope this helps...

and actually, it doesn't stop there...

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Old 08-14-2004, 07:48 AM   #6904
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Bear, I believe Bill Sydor was tied for the fastest lap time of the day!
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Old 08-14-2004, 03:37 PM   #6905
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when using the 3mm chassis for the Pro 4, what adjustments are needed to keep the geometry the same as stock?

do you have to raise the front/rear pivot blocks by .5mm?

do the inner front/rear camber links need to be changed as well?

how many millimetres do the links need to be raised?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-14-2004, 05:47 PM   #6906
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You'll probably have to drop everything by .5mm, as that's the difference in chassis thicknesses(from 2.5 to 3).


" When raising the roll center of the pro4, what's the difference between raising the suspension arms and lowering the upper cambers links? Can you do either one with the same effect as long as you end up with the same roll center, or would one differ from the other in tems of effect on handling? "


I would say that generally, they are two different adjustments in terms of the qualities of the adjustment. Yeah, they both change the roll center, but in different ways. They govern aspects of how the roll center moves (up, down, side to side), but they are different aspects. The top link also brings your camber change into play.

Generally, I feel like moving the hinge pin mounts has a big effect on how quickly the car rolls. Lower=slower, higher =faster. You could also say high=more and lower = less if that helps.

The link does a lot of things. Generally, higher on the inside= more traction. Lowering the links tends to make the car steer a bit more. This is really not specific as you can get a lot of other effects depending on what end of the car you do stuff. I will say I'd fool with the links before the hinge pins. i race carpet, so i just keep things where they are 95% of the time (with the hinge pins). If you race outside, the kind of traction that is out there may dictate where you want to go with the blocks (sugar water, VHT, they don't blow the track off, etc.) Higher traction, you may want to try lower blocks, and vice versa.

Staggering things front to back will also change the car. On carpet w/foam, I have the front hinge pin blocks higher
than the rear. This makes the car rotate hard. I can't say i came up with this setup, but the guys I race with worked on it for a long time. Basically the front of the car reacts quicker since its a bit higher. Granted this can get out of hand if you go too far on differential f to r. We run like 1.5 to 2mm difference.
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Old 08-15-2004, 08:21 AM   #6907
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hey rob/kevin..

or other pro4 builders.


how did you tighten the shock caps? did you just hand tighten them or did you use another tool or something....

just wondering cause even hand tight i see a tiny amount of oil coming out of that bleeder hole.

thanks
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Old 08-15-2004, 09:31 AM   #6908
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I hand tightened mine, but used a piece of kitchen paper to I could really grip the cap.
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Old 08-15-2004, 10:17 AM   #6909
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Mine leaked a little bit at first, but after 1 or 2 packs no more.
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Old 08-15-2004, 11:33 AM   #6910
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maybe your bladder isn't sitting right if oil leaks from the air hole
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Old 08-15-2004, 01:48 PM   #6911
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I just hand tighten 'em. Super steve might be right, the bladders do get out of line at times.
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Old 08-16-2004, 09:09 AM   #6912
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nexus
hey rob/kevin..

or other pro4 builders.


how did you tighten the shock caps? did you just hand tighten them or did you use another tool or something....

just wondering cause even hand tight i see a tiny amount of oil coming out of that bleeder hole.

thanks
That might be the exit hole (and should be the air hole for the bladder) for the extra oil....mine leak a little, then since then (2 full racing included yesterday point racing...) the shocks are still at 95% of the oriignal position....

I am very impressed with this HPI shocks....(compare to the Xray/Serpent one that I always trust...)
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Old 08-16-2004, 09:10 AM   #6913
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thanks for the tips....

now i'm realizing my jr racing z8450 doesn't really fit in the pro4...the ears on the servo don't line out with the servo mounts.
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Old 08-16-2004, 09:16 AM   #6914
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I finally got a full triple A main race yesterday with my pro 4....I did OK, didn't break any single parts of the car (cause I didn't hit anything...clean run)...........but only got a 7 place overall at the A-main....

I ran 1 lap slower then the A1 guy........but again, I think I have everything dialed...............except my MOTOR.

By asking the rest of the racer, my motor is probably the FASTEST motor on the track, they are all running like 11X1 and 12X1....and some of them are 10X1 or 10x2...

On the turns, I can definitely hang with them, but on the straight, there are watching me like "Driving Miss Daisy"......I just cannot have the speed of their motor, not even those 11 turns and 12 turns.....they can pass me in no time...

What would be the problem of my motor...? I am running a Reedy TI 10x3.................

Is that time that I need to learn how to cut the comm and buy myself a $200 motor lathe...? Or, I should go brushless....
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Old 08-16-2004, 09:41 AM   #6915
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie
Solara

I finally got a full triple A main
race yesterday with my pro 4....I did
OK, didn't break any single parts of
the car (cause I didn't hit
anything...clean run)...........but
only got a 7 place overall at the
A-main....

I ran 1 lap slower then the A1
guy........but again, I think I have
everything dialed...............except
my MOTOR.

By asking the rest of the racer, my
motor is probably the FASTEST motor on
the track, they are all running like
11X1 and 12X1....and some of them are
10X1 or 10x2...

On the turns, I can definitely hang
with them, but on the straight, there
are watching me like "Driving Miss
Daisy"......I just cannot have the
speed of their motor, not even those
11 turns and 12 turns.....they can
pass me in no time...

What would be the problem of my
motor...? I am running a Reedy TI
10x3.................

Is that time that I need to learn how
to cut the comm and buy myself a $200
motor lathe...? Or, I should go
brushless....
I'll sell you a Twister lathe for $100.00.
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