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Old 08-12-2004, 09:33 AM   #6856
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Quote:
Originally posted by Skill
Looks very interesting Super Steve, I might try that myself...my Hara V2 Revolution runs very hot
at least you have a Hara V2... can't even find those here in the states...
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Old 08-12-2004, 09:37 AM   #6857
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It's the only motor to have in the Pro 4, looks cool, most shops in the UK should have them, but you'll have to pay a bit more than you normally would, they're £57 here in the UK, I'd imagine in the USA they'd be about $70?
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Old 08-12-2004, 09:40 AM   #6858
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Quote:
Originally posted by Super Steve
rookie solora,
I've had my ballstud sheered off at the front but not at the back...

anyways,
the mod can be seen on that same picture

you know how there are 4 screws that mounts the upperdeck to the diff case?

The inner two screw holes (front and rear diffcase) are drilled out and he uses the buttonhead screws...
Got it..........thanks, now, I have a clear pictures, but for my elect level, I don't think I need that mod.....I just need a motor that run....LOL
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Old 08-12-2004, 09:42 AM   #6859
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I`ll have to agree with you on this one to a lot of the Japanese Drivers have started to do this little mod also
What tools to use to do that mod?
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Old 08-12-2004, 09:43 AM   #6860
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Quote:
Originally posted by Skill
It's the only motor to have in the Pro 4, looks cool, most shops in the UK should have them, but you'll have to pay a bit more than you normally would, they're £57 here in the UK, I'd imagine in the USA they'd be about $70?
should've had my friend get me one from Apex same time when they picked up my Delrin diffs...
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Old 08-12-2004, 09:44 AM   #6861
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aku-Man
What tools to use to do that mod?
just a big enough drill bit to allow your button head screw to go all the way through...
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Old 08-12-2004, 09:49 AM   #6862
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aku-Man
What tools to use to do that mod?
I think that 4 screws/holes are no longer mounted thru the upper deck, that is the mod........after the mod, if you are planning to remove the upper deck, it will be 4 less screws to remove...you can remove the upper deck faster...
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Old 08-12-2004, 09:58 AM   #6863
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Quote:
I think that 4 screws/holes are no longer mounted thru the upper deck, that is the mod........after the mod, if you are planning to remove the upper deck, it will be 4 less screws to remove...you can remove the upper deck faster...
So, those screws are no longer secure the top plate after the mod? Or just drill little bit to fit the button head screws?
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Old 08-12-2004, 09:58 AM   #6864
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Default Hara's upperdeck mod..

From what i was told (from Hara himself) is that it was indeed to prevent the car from holding a tweak...

basically the four inner countersunk holes were drilled (probably a good dremel will work) through... just big enough for a typical size button head screw to pass thru...

after that,..... there may or may not be a need for some 'shimming' to be done.. to/under the four remaining screws that attach to the bulkhead... to figure out wethere or not you will need to shim,.... First fasten the screws that attach to the motormount and the steering/bellcrank posts (as you would uasually do in a cross-pattern)... after those four screws are secure look closely for gaps between the upperdeck and bulkheads in the areas of the remaining four screw (screws that attach to the bulkheads) and shim accordingly... from what i have seen/heard, if any shimming is need it will be very little... could be as thin as a motor/armature shim....

hope this helps...
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Old 08-12-2004, 10:04 AM   #6865
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end result of this mod will only require 8 screws to fasten upperdeck..
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Old 08-12-2004, 10:07 AM   #6866
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ok i just bought a pro 4 ... DAMN nice car ! .. but when i got to the sway bars to mount it on the car it doesnt tighten it just move side to side, is that like that ? or what?
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Old 08-12-2004, 10:48 AM   #6867
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Get yourself some collets as used on nitro cars throttle linkages to hold your sway bar centred.

The upper deck mod is very interesting, I might do it just to make maintenance easier, it is kinda a pain un-doing all those screws just to change the spur gear .
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Old 08-12-2004, 10:55 AM   #6868
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use the setscrew to keep the sway bar from moving side to side
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Old 08-12-2004, 10:57 AM   #6869
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Quote:
Originally posted by Super Steve
use the setscrew to keep the sway bar from moving side to side
the supplies set screws are used to control the up/down movement of the sway bars.... the collets control left/right movement...
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Old 08-12-2004, 11:12 AM   #6870
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
the supplies set screws are used to control the up/down movement of the sway bars.... the collets control left/right movement...
Actually, this is also what I want to know...........SWAY BAR with those set screws, am I suppose to HOLD the sway bar from moving UP and DOWN...........or I have to keep them loose...?

My understanding about sway bar (on real car or my RC car knowledge)............it SHOULD NOT be locked tight (the set screws SHOULD NOT compressed to the sway bar...it should be a very very very thin gap between the sway bar and the set screws)...

If I compressed the set screws to the sway bar....when I compressed the left side of the suspension, my right side of the suspension will not be forced to carry the load from the left side, and that will defeated the idea of having a sway bar...

Without mounting the shocks, when you lifted the left suspension arm, the right arm should be lifted as well.....only if the sway bar can lifted up and down smoothly....

On the real car, they only use a mount and the rubber base bushing to hold the arm....

Correct me if I am wrong...(may be RC is different...)
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