86LikesHpi Pro 4
07-26-2004, 07:15 PM
#6421
DOMOisCOOL
I see!
Here is my solution for now.
- put 2 layers of double side tape under receiver.
- keep servo wire away from other wires.
- try different crystal (just ordered channel 70)
thanks
I see!
Here is my solution for now.
- put 2 layers of double side tape under receiver.
- keep servo wire away from other wires.
- try different crystal (just ordered channel 70)
thanks
07-26-2004, 07:20 PM
#6422
Tech Master
No problem.
Before, I had velcro to hold the receiver, had no glitches. But to play it safe, I switched over to 2 layer double sided tape.
Also, does the whole car glitch? Do the servo glitch too? If so, there may be interference or bad reception. If only the 'throttle' glitches, it has to do with your motor, or ESC.
Before, I had velcro to hold the receiver, had no glitches. But to play it safe, I switched over to 2 layer double sided tape.
Also, does the whole car glitch? Do the servo glitch too? If so, there may be interference or bad reception. If only the 'throttle' glitches, it has to do with your motor, or ESC.
07-26-2004, 08:15 PM
#6423
Tech Regular
Check your antennae for small cuts or abrasions if ti has been cut down replace it with the proper lenght .
07-26-2004, 09:34 PM
#6424
some people (myself included) often get a glitch in one point on our track. We race on 2 school netball courts, that has 4 goal/ring posts, and there is one in particular, that is the furthest away from the driver stand, that seems to cause glitching when you get near it...
07-26-2004, 09:40 PM
#6425
What is a good selection of springs to own for the Pro4?
There are only about 3 or 4 HPI ones on tower and i notice a lot of people refering to associated springs on setupsheets, and since i have to place an order from tower i thought i may as well stock up on some springs.
Also what do people think of the novak millenium pro charger?
There are only about 3 or 4 HPI ones on tower and i notice a lot of people refering to associated springs on setupsheets, and since i have to place an order from tower i thought i may as well stock up on some springs.
Also what do people think of the novak millenium pro charger?
07-26-2004, 09:57 PM
#6426
Tech Master
The Novak Millenium Pro charger is a great all around charger. But you can get a better one for the money. I recommend the LRP Pulsar Competition.
07-26-2004, 10:03 PM
#6427
Originally posted by DOMOisCOOL
The Novak Millenium Pro charger is a great all around charger. But you can get a better one for the money. I recommend the LRP Pulsar Competition.
The Novak Millenium Pro charger is a great all around charger. But you can get a better one for the money. I recommend the LRP Pulsar Competition.
07-26-2004, 10:54 PM
#6429
Originally posted by DOMOisCOOL
The Novak Millenium Pro charger is a great all around charger. But you can get a better one for the money. I recommend the LRP Pulsar Competition.
The Novak Millenium Pro charger is a great all around charger. But you can get a better one for the money. I recommend the LRP Pulsar Competition.
On Tower it mentions other things you need to get with it, and points to a small lead battery, does it work ok just off the battery in the car? or any AC => DC converter power supply you can get from Jaycar (australian store) etc?
Aside from the discharge and motor run-in functions, why is it better than the Novak? (Yes moderators I will post this in a new thread as well)
07-26-2004, 11:01 PM
#6430
Re: Here are some new problems.
Originally posted by brushless
This past weekend when I was racing, my Pro 4 all of a sudden wouldn't move any more. One of the rear wheels would spin freely. (Is that a word?) I took the rear diff apart and found out that the diff bolt head had totally broken off. I didn't have a replacement, so I replaced it with Associated's T-Nut thrust bolt, part number 6575. It went together fine and functioned properly. A few runs later I heard a spoadic clicking sound that sounded like it was coming from the rear of the car. I checked the spur and pinion gears and they were fine. I also took apart the front and rear diff and all the gears looked fine too. Does anyone know what could be causing this?
P.S. I haven't run the car since I took it apart and put it back together.
I also bent a front dog bone, but that's another story.
This past weekend when I was racing, my Pro 4 all of a sudden wouldn't move any more. One of the rear wheels would spin freely. (Is that a word?) I took the rear diff apart and found out that the diff bolt head had totally broken off. I didn't have a replacement, so I replaced it with Associated's T-Nut thrust bolt, part number 6575. It went together fine and functioned properly. A few runs later I heard a spoadic clicking sound that sounded like it was coming from the rear of the car. I checked the spur and pinion gears and they were fine. I also took apart the front and rear diff and all the gears looked fine too. Does anyone know what could be causing this?
P.S. I haven't run the car since I took it apart and put it back together.
I also bent a front dog bone, but that's another story.
07-26-2004, 11:10 PM
#6431
Tech Master
Originally posted by azenis
That was the other one i was looking at
On Tower it mentions other things you need to get with it, and points to a small lead battery, does it work ok just off the battery in the car? or any AC => DC converter power supply you can get from Jaycar (australian store) etc?
Aside from the discharge and motor run-in functions, why is it better than the Novak? (Yes moderators I will post this in a new thread as well)
That was the other one i was looking at
On Tower it mentions other things you need to get with it, and points to a small lead battery, does it work ok just off the battery in the car? or any AC => DC converter power supply you can get from Jaycar (australian store) etc?
Aside from the discharge and motor run-in functions, why is it better than the Novak? (Yes moderators I will post this in a new thread as well)
You will need to get a Power Supply (ex. US 120vAC->12vDC). You can get a fairly cheap one. A 10amp one will be enough.
In my opinion, those features make it more worth the money. Motor run in is very helpful for powering Comm Lathes, and breaking in motors. The discharger only discharges at 10a, but better than nothing.
07-26-2004, 11:11 PM
#6432
Originally posted by DOTMAN
Does anyone know where I can get a spool for the Pro4?
Does anyone know where I can get a spool for the Pro4?
HPI are working on a factory one and Hara has been testing so it should be released in the next couple of months I guess. I built one and it works great .... there is another thread I started on how to do it 'Building a spool'.
07-26-2004, 11:31 PM
#6433
Originally posted by DOMOisCOOL
You will need to get a Power Supply (ex. US 120vAC->12vDC). You can get a fairly cheap one. A 10amp one will be enough.
You will need to get a Power Supply (ex. US 120vAC->12vDC). You can get a fairly cheap one. A 10amp one will be enough.
07-27-2004, 12:44 AM
#6434
Originally posted by rc-zombies
the 75190 diff brace will fit hte version 1 gears..
if you have lots of version 1 gears get the PRP diff plate.. I think it's better than HPI's... the Plate covers the entire gear.
the 75190 diff brace will fit hte version 1 gears..
if you have lots of version 1 gears get the PRP diff plate.. I think it's better than HPI's... the Plate covers the entire gear.
Why? Reason is, at i have a good relationship with Rc Model and make all my orders from them
07-27-2004, 12:50 AM
#6435
Originally posted by Erik Shauver
Trinity2: If you got your car in the US (kit#185), give HPI USA customer service a call about the new gears and the one-way brace.
-E [/B]
Trinity2: If you got your car in the US (kit#185), give HPI USA customer service a call about the new gears and the one-way brace.
-E [/B]
Yeah, i got mine #185 from SpeedTech last spring.
I live in Finland, so is it problem to give a call?
Sorry my bad english.