86LikesHpi Pro 4
07-23-2004, 12:22 PM
#6346
Originally posted by Erik Shauver
azenis: Hara's chassis just has the edge "knocked off" the battery slot contact areas to keep it from slicing the cells' shrink wrap as syntex1 points out. With the 2.0mm chassis, if you overdo the filing, your batteries will drag on the race surface, destroying your packs!! I can't stress enough, easy does it with the filing on the 2.0mm main plate. Also, a ride height of 4.5 to 5.0mm is very normal for Pro4's on asphalt (carpet will be as low as rules permit).
As a side note, when switching chassis plates (2.0, 2.5, or 3.0), don't forget to compensate by adjusting the pivot block heights by the same thickness change. If you're running a 3.0mm chassis, your blocks (and inner camber pickups to a degree) will all need to be lowered 0.5mm, for the suspension to perform the same relative to the ride height (or chassis lower plane). If you go to a 2.0mm chassis, you'll need to raise the blocks by 0.5mm. I'm pretty sure a lot of the "performance" upgrades people are seeing from aftermarket chassis is the same as if you had simply raised the blocks and camber pickups all the way around. A lot of guys will say a stiffer car is better for all conditions, but while all the other teams were trying 3.5mm or even more main chassis plates at the nats, Hara was dominating with the 2.0mm main chassis and upper deck.
Rookie Solara, kewdawg: you will need Acrobat Standard or Professional instead of Acrobat Reader to save the sheet with changes. If your screen size is large enough, you may be able to use Windows "Print Screen" and drop that info into Photoshop or similar (but with a quality loss).
azenis: Hara's chassis just has the edge "knocked off" the battery slot contact areas to keep it from slicing the cells' shrink wrap as syntex1 points out. With the 2.0mm chassis, if you overdo the filing, your batteries will drag on the race surface, destroying your packs!! I can't stress enough, easy does it with the filing on the 2.0mm main plate. Also, a ride height of 4.5 to 5.0mm is very normal for Pro4's on asphalt (carpet will be as low as rules permit).
As a side note, when switching chassis plates (2.0, 2.5, or 3.0), don't forget to compensate by adjusting the pivot block heights by the same thickness change. If you're running a 3.0mm chassis, your blocks (and inner camber pickups to a degree) will all need to be lowered 0.5mm, for the suspension to perform the same relative to the ride height (or chassis lower plane). If you go to a 2.0mm chassis, you'll need to raise the blocks by 0.5mm. I'm pretty sure a lot of the "performance" upgrades people are seeing from aftermarket chassis is the same as if you had simply raised the blocks and camber pickups all the way around. A lot of guys will say a stiffer car is better for all conditions, but while all the other teams were trying 3.5mm or even more main chassis plates at the nats, Hara was dominating with the 2.0mm main chassis and upper deck.
Rookie Solara, kewdawg: you will need Acrobat Standard or Professional instead of Acrobat Reader to save the sheet with changes. If your screen size is large enough, you may be able to use Windows "Print Screen" and drop that info into Photoshop or similar (but with a quality loss).
07-23-2004, 01:38 PM
#6347
Originally posted by Erik Shauver
rod_b: 1.0mm = 1.5 degrees. A quick check would be to throw in some numbers in this setup sheet and quickly check the results.
-E
rod_b: 1.0mm = 1.5 degrees. A quick check would be to throw in some numbers in this setup sheet and quickly check the results.
-E
07-23-2004, 02:37 PM
#6348
Delrin Outdrive Set
Well I just got my Delrin outdrive set for the Pro 4 from Apex models. Looks like I will have to make good on my promise and do a write up w/pics this weekend for the diff re-build/conversion with AE parts. Should be up by Monday.
- Dana
- Dana
07-23-2004, 04:36 PM
#6349
Rookie, thanks for the nice comments.
The "important items" (I'm sure your not interested in my ESC) I should have added are
1.5mm shim on the rear hex, none on the front, with the stock hexes
no additional weights,
5.5mm ride height F + R
Losi oil, otherwise stock shocks
0mm spacing on swaybar
Bullfrog 36spf sunblock(!) on tires- 1/2 front full rear. You really have to work it in.
Air temp was in the High 70s F
Hope this helps.
PS Erik, can you comment on the application for the new front offset hubs? I mostly race carpet and that would be where I'm most interested in their effects....
The "important items" (I'm sure your not interested in my ESC) I should have added are
1.5mm shim on the rear hex, none on the front, with the stock hexes
no additional weights,
5.5mm ride height F + R
Losi oil, otherwise stock shocks
0mm spacing on swaybar
Bullfrog 36spf sunblock(!) on tires- 1/2 front full rear. You really have to work it in.
Air temp was in the High 70s F
Hope this helps.
PS Erik, can you comment on the application for the new front offset hubs? I mostly race carpet and that would be where I'm most interested in their effects....
07-23-2004, 04:42 PM
#6350
Originally posted by robk
Rookie, thanks for the nice comments.
......
Bullfrog 36spf sunblock(!) on tires- 1/2 front full rear. You really have to work it in.
........
Rookie, thanks for the nice comments.
......
Bullfrog 36spf sunblock(!) on tires- 1/2 front full rear. You really have to work it in.
........
seriously though... what effect is sunblock do to the tires...
07-23-2004, 04:44 PM
#6351
Tech Master
For Foams.
ahhh...IC...
07-23-2004, 08:15 PM
#6354
Robk how tight do you usally have you front and rear diff for stk foam?
lazyboy
lazyboy
07-23-2004, 09:06 PM
#6355
HeY!!!
Prest i thought u didn't want to race foams w/ the pro4, and if ya do when do ya plan on starting, i'll start also then w/ TC3 or the losi not sure yet...
Prest i thought u didn't want to race foams w/ the pro4, and if ya do when do ya plan on starting, i'll start also then w/ TC3 or the losi not sure yet...
07-23-2004, 09:18 PM
#6356
you know, i havent decided yet, im the in middle right now
07-23-2004, 11:26 PM
#6357
Tech Regular
Setup for Tamiya Track
Anybody got a setup for the Tamiya Track. I am signed up for the KO race in 19t and was wondering if the 2.0mm chasis would be good there with a one-way. I know Hara was running the 2.0 mm chasis there at the Reedy Race but that was with a spool. How different would it be with a one-way?
07-24-2004, 12:04 AM
#6358
Had a good night out with the Pro 4 last night at my local club, beating 3 Xray FK's for the A Final win on trophy night 
The first heat the car wasn't quite right, and had a bit of understeer, so for the second heat I raised the rear toe block up a bit and the car was great after that!
What's even better is that on my dad's Pro 4 debut he came 5th.
I can't believe how well this car handles
The first heat the car wasn't quite right, and had a bit of understeer, so for the second heat I raised the rear toe block up a bit and the car was great after that!
What's even better is that on my dad's Pro 4 debut he came 5th.
I can't believe how well this car handles
07-24-2004, 02:15 AM
#6359
I am interested in getting a Pro 4 and I was wondering what the best place to get hop ups on the net is. I want some of the new aluminium steering knuckles and a titanium screw set. I also have my eye on the new HPI Drift wheels and tires 
07-24-2004, 02:31 AM
#6360
I have some Jet Alloy Steering Knuckles which I bought from AsiaTees, the new HPI ones will be more expensive I would have thought, and there's nothing wrong with the Jet ones.
