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Old 07-22-2004, 05:31 PM   #6331
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I shouldnt laugh but...
HAHAHAHA THAT IS FUNNY
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Old 07-22-2004, 05:34 PM   #6332
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Not that I can talk really
We have or should i say had one of those plastic tubs you put rice in to cook in the microwave.
Once, i forgot to put the water in before I put it in the microwave, and it was in there for about 3 minutes and the room started to fill with smoke, the rice went black and the bottom of the bucket melted

oh and the other week i turned the microwave on and forgot to put anything in it D'OH

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Old 07-22-2004, 08:49 PM   #6333
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In the pic of Haras car on the previous page, it looks like the battery slots arent filed back?? is that ok?????
My BMI has quite deep bevels on the ends of the battery slots
I fitted up the standard chassis last night, but the slots arent filed back as far as i can tell, the edges seem pretty square to me (car is 2nd hand) Its ok as i am still running stick packs, but plan to get some side by side packs done soon (have one pack of cells so far)

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Last edited by azenis; 07-22-2004 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 07-22-2004, 09:55 PM   #6334
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i think you will notice only thetips of the battery slots are filed down so they dont tear through the cell
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Old 07-22-2004, 10:00 PM   #6335
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Yes i realise its only the tips or thin bits but they dont really seem filed down by much or at all in that photo, esp compared to the ones on my BMI
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Old 07-22-2004, 10:27 PM   #6336
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azenis,

The Nats track was very bumpy as well. I ran 4.5mm w/ no problems. My setup for stock ended up very close to Hara's.
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Old 07-22-2004, 10:53 PM   #6337
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We race on a school netball court and it has a big crest in the middle and a few dips and bumps, and also we used flat boards to lay out the track, the car was over 6mm last meet (the ride height gauge wasnt near touching) tho that was measured without a battery in the car, and the car still got some new scratches on the bottom - tho i suspect they are more from the track boards anyhow... will go out tomorrow and do some testing before sundays racing if i get a chance
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Old 07-23-2004, 06:39 AM   #6338
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Quote:
Originally posted by robk
quote:
Originally posted by kewdawg
robk, What were your droop settings?
*2mm over ride height in front, 3mm over ride ht. in rear

And rear toe block?..
*2.0 rear toe
And ackerman setting?...
*stock
And chassis / top deck type & thickness?..
*stock.
And body / wing?...
*Parma Alfa, though maybe a Mazda could be better, I think Kevin K ran that
And type of foams used?....
*Eagle Racing, basically gas car rubber
Ya' know what?... How about attaching one of those cool Hpi interactive set-up sheets, Please?

If I can figure it out I'll do it later
robk, It's pretty easy. You just open the blank set-up sheet in the Pro4 section of Hpi USA's website. Once there, you just move the little hand over the field you want to put info. in and click it open. The program even has reset buttons on the set-up sheet. Its really cool!
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Old 07-23-2004, 09:51 AM   #6339
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Quote:
Originally posted by kewdawg
robk, It's pretty easy. You just open the blank set-up sheet in the Pro4 section of Hpi USA's website. Once there, you just move the little hand over the field you want to put info. in and click it open. The program even has reset buttons on the set-up sheet. Its really cool!
Since you are the expert on that adobe thingy....I just want to know how to SAVE the information that I just type (input) onto the bank setup sheet...? I don't see there is an option on it, you can just use "Save a copy" to save a blank sheet (again) onto your Hard disk....but I just can't seems to save a completed setup sheet and posted it here....

Any idea...? If that can be fix, I think RobK or Kevin are more then welcome to post their setup sheet online....I saw these 2 guys ran at our local track, and they are uncatchable...
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Old 07-23-2004, 10:11 AM   #6340
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Since you are the expert on that adobe thingy....I just want to know how to SAVE the information that I just type (input) onto the bank setup sheet...? I don't see there is an option on it, you can just use "Save a copy" to save a blank sheet (again) onto your Hard disk....but I just can't seems to save a completed setup sheet and posted it here....

Any idea...? If that can be fix, I think RobK or Kevin are more then welcome to post their setup sheet online....I saw these 2 guys ran at our local track, and they are uncatchable...
No expert, here. I just used simple deduction to figure it out. I don't know how to save it. I was wondering how to do that, also.
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Old 07-23-2004, 11:05 AM   #6341
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azenis: Hara's chassis just has the edge "knocked off" the battery slot contact areas to keep it from slicing the cells' shrink wrap as syntex1 points out. With the 2.0mm chassis, if you overdo the filing, your batteries will drag on the race surface, destroying your packs!! I can't stress enough, easy does it with the filing on the 2.0mm main plate. Also, a ride height of 4.5 to 5.0mm is very normal for Pro4's on asphalt (carpet will be as low as rules permit).

As a side note, when switching chassis plates (2.0, 2.5, or 3.0), don't forget to compensate by adjusting the pivot block heights by the same thickness change. If you're running a 3.0mm chassis, your blocks (and inner camber pickups to a degree) will all need to be lowered 0.5mm, for the suspension to perform the same relative to the ride height (or chassis lower plane). If you go to a 2.0mm chassis, you'll need to raise the blocks by 0.5mm. I'm pretty sure a lot of the "performance" upgrades people are seeing from aftermarket chassis is the same as if you had simply raised the blocks and camber pickups all the way around. A lot of guys will say a stiffer car is better for all conditions, but while all the other teams were trying 3.5mm or even more main chassis plates at the nats, Hara was dominating with the 2.0mm main chassis and upper deck.

Rookie Solara, kewdawg: you will need Acrobat Standard or Professional instead of Acrobat Reader to save the sheet with changes. If your screen size is large enough, you may be able to use Windows "Print Screen" and drop that info into Photoshop or similar (but with a quality loss).
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Old 07-23-2004, 11:36 AM   #6342
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Here's robk's setup on a sheet... robk, let me know the rest and I'll fill in the blanks.

-E
Attached Images
File Type: jpg pro 4 setup - robk - 07212004.jpg (155.7 KB, 386 views)
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Old 07-23-2004, 11:43 AM   #6343
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Erik, I don't think anyone has been able to answer this and hopefully you can...

How do the pivot block spacers relate to degrees? If I run 3.0mm/2.0mm spacers on the front end, how much kickup is that?

Thanks
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Old 07-23-2004, 12:21 PM   #6344
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Quote:
Originally posted by rod_b
Erik, I don't think anyone has been able to answer this and hopefully you can...

How do the pivot block spacers relate to degrees? If I run 3.0mm/2.0mm spacers on the front end, how much kickup is that?

Thanks
I beleive that would translate to 1deg of kick up, I think it says somewhere in the back of the manual that the difference in MM is the difference in deg.
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Old 07-23-2004, 12:24 PM   #6345
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rod_b: 1.0mm = 1.5 degrees. A quick check would be to throw in some numbers in this setup sheet and quickly check the results.

-E
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