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Old 07-20-2004, 01:09 PM   #6256
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kraig
Losi spool pads are a-3250.
Good lookin' out, Kraig! thanks
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Old 07-20-2004, 04:26 PM   #6257
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Quote:
Originally posted by Skill
Looks like Hara is running carbon fibre camber link mounts, but just carbon fibre which fits over the stock mounts. He's also running purple spring perches



Also, does anyone know what those purple bits are on his steering knuckles?
I have seen these on other cars, but what are the little purple washer things under the heads of the steering post screws for?
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Old 07-20-2004, 04:33 PM   #6258
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read top of page and work your way down...and you'll find the answere to your question.
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Old 07-20-2004, 04:40 PM   #6259
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ahh this page or the start of the thread?

titanium screws?

having looked at the pic again i notice that they are also on the screws at the end of the gear box, and these scews are normally round heads, and changed to countersunk looking ones, so i would gather the washers are there for the countersunk head to fit into
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Old 07-20-2004, 07:18 PM   #6260
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"concave washers"
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Old 07-20-2004, 08:12 PM   #6261
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Quote:
Originally posted by Frank McKinney
I'm not sure that Thad was racing, I didn't see his name in the full results. I would think he was but I don't know for sure.
I wasnít racing, just PB-ing (pit guy) for the MAN!

Hara's set-up from the race..
This setup sheet is 99.9% accurate. He was making changes every run due to constant track temperature changes.

azenis,
We sometimes use o-rings and concave washers on the steering post screws to eliminate and possible tweak when using the 2.0mm chassis. This isnít as necessary with the 3.0 and 2.5mm chassis. The reason he is using the Washes and counter sunk screws on the gear box is because he was using the Carbon fiber braces.

pro4_chris,
RPM Part# 73372 Heavy Duty Rod Ends (12) 4-40 (Black)
www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/assoc/hires/7337.htm
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Old 07-20-2004, 08:17 PM   #6262
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Quote:
Originally posted by rod_b
"concave washers"
where do u get them? and are the Ti screws less prone to rounding?
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Old 07-20-2004, 08:21 PM   #6263
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Quote:
Originally posted by Thad Garner
azenis,
We sometimes use o-rings and concave washers on the steering post screws to eliminate and possible tweak when using the 2.0mm chassis. This isnít as necessary with the 3.0 and 2.5mm chassis. The reason he is using the Washes and counter sunk screws on the gear box is because he was using the Carbon fiber braces.
Thanks for that Thad How does it reduce tweak?
I run a 3mm BMI chassis on tarmak, so I guess I dont need them
I havent found any setup sheets on the net for 3mm esp for asphalt, do you know of any?
TIA
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Old 07-20-2004, 08:24 PM   #6264
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Sorry for being a pain, but my server can only read jpg's
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Old 07-20-2004, 08:43 PM   #6265
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Quote:
Originally posted by xxxkat
All I can say is if you cant get a Pro4 to handle..go back to offroad.. I do have a question,Why would you put associated springs on the car before trying the stock springs.. If the 32's were not working,why not try 27's first,rather than drop to 23's,are you using the kit oil..or did you change that also..just asking,so dont get upset.I just read on this board about how some guy's cant get their Pro4's to work and the one's I have are soooo dialed using the stock set up(but with no sway bar)at the track I race at my car is so hooked up I'm running Yokomo sprints (firms with soft inserts)Most guy's at our track can't use them.. I am just as interested in understanding why your Pro4 wont handle as you guy's are,on the "stock" setup are you running it as the book says to,or have you made "improvements"ie: camber,caster..etc.I'm just interested in the setup as far as "stock" goes.
OK, to start from the beginning... When I originally came up with this set up I had tried the stock springs first and found that the AE springs made it handle more aggressively, thats why I used them first on race day. Why didnt I try 27's? that a pretty simple one- I didnt have any! Yes I was using the kit oil, the only things I changed were the things I mentioned in my original post.

Jim! I was pretty close Thanks again for the arm and for the set up, I'll try that this sunday and see where I am. That is assuming were outside again on sunday, I hear theres a chance of r*** on thursday and friday I should also have my new servo in by then so at least it'll go straight down the backstretch eh?
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Old 07-20-2004, 08:43 PM   #6266
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72063 6 Cone Washer 3.0mm/4-40 Aluminum (Purple / 6 pcs)
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/parts/72063.jpg

The o-rings reduces chances of chassis tweak by allowing the chassis to flex without the screws binding and sticking.

I have found the Ti screws to be a bit softer.

We use the 2mm chassis for asphalt racing. It produces more traction.
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Old 07-20-2004, 09:01 PM   #6267
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Hi Thad
Where can I buy that part? never seen them... will check tower

So you use a 2mm chassis. how does that creat the extra traction? More flex? I would have thought flex to be a bad thing? I think the 3mm would be less prone to tweak as well?
Should I invest in a 2mm chassis?? our track is a school yard, and as such is a pretty bumpy and uneven surface, however they are building a new proper track for us which will have a perfect surface, but i dont know when it will be finished (its a long way off)
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Old 07-20-2004, 09:03 PM   #6268
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Oh and I meant to ask you...
The setup sheets for the 2mm chassis and 2.5mm, will they still work ok with my 3mm chassis?
I do have the standard one as well but the 3mm chassis is on the car at the moment, as i bought it that way...
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Old 07-20-2004, 09:41 PM   #6269
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Thad,
Why do you prefer taping your batteries in then using the plastic battery holder? Is it for saving weight or for more secure batteries on the chassis??


Thanks
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Old 07-20-2004, 10:14 PM   #6270
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do these washers include the o-rings or are they another part?

Quote:
Originally posted by Thad Garner
72063 6 Cone Washer 3.0mm/4-40 Aluminum (Purple / 6 pcs)
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/parts/72063.jpg

The o-rings reduces chances of chassis tweak by allowing the chassis to flex without the screws binding and sticking.

I have found the Ti screws to be a bit softer.

We use the 2mm chassis for asphalt racing. It produces more traction.
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