R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-06-2004, 12:17 AM   #6016
Tech Addict
 
Skill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Doncaster, England
Posts: 537
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Ralf
Guys,

Do you know where I can find the 2mm main chassis ?
I have asked some shops in Japan and they don't even know its existence...
Try www.apexmodels.com they are in the UK but ship worldwide and should have the 2mm chassis in stock.
Skill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2004, 11:15 AM   #6017
Tech Adept
 
X-Garage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 155
Default

Where to get that heatsink and what are those two things on the car?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg pro4_hara.jpg (41.8 KB, 186 views)
X-Garage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2004, 11:19 AM   #6018
Tech Champion
 
rc-zombies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: NorCal. Napa area
Posts: 7,218
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by X-Garage
Where to get that heatsink and what are those two things on the car?
Heatsink you can buy from the Integy website or Ebay.
those two thingyabobs are ferrit magnets to reduce EMI interferrance... not really needed unless your car is really glitching wildly...
__________________
HB WCE HARA EDITION CYCLONE: LRP Sphere TC, KO 2363 digital servo.
HB HARA EDITION PRO4: Gone to a new home..

SPEEDTECH|FUTABA|KO|ORION|SPEEDWORLD|HARA
rc-zombies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2004, 11:28 AM   #6019
Tech Adept
 
X-Garage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 155
Default

Thanks!

I sometime have a problem with glitching. Is there a site to order one of those?
X-Garage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2004, 11:39 AM   #6020
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 154
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default Re: Diff issue revisited

Quote:
Originally posted by RCBuddha
I think i found the part necessary to solve this diff issue....(this is assuming your using the AE diff Screw, nut and spring already)

For a few nights, i was trying to assemble my diff with the screw head and thrust bearing on one side, and the diff spring and nut on the other. The problem has been that the diff nut needed to be in a longer housing to fit into the long diff halve...

While randomly at the hobby shop, i found AE # 2330; "NTC3 ATD Diff-T Nut" which seems to be the right length to allow the diff to be built in the "Correct" manner.

The only problem? I was unable to pick up the part, and I'm unable to work on my R/C stuff for a while! Anyone wanna spend a few bucks and let us know how it works??? Here's how the diff should build:

http://download.teamassociated.com/p...rawing_tc3.pdf

Anyone else got the time and spare diff to try this out? Zombies? JDM?

My only fear is that it may interfere with the dog bone, but if it works....
Your fear is correct. I spent last week trying to figure this problem out before the race this past Sat. I got a Nirto diff re-build kit and that longer T-Nut was to long bumping into the dog bone. So I went out and bought the standard electric T-Nut assembly (AE part # 6575). When I assembled the diff with the new shorter nut I found that the groove of the long hub was not deep enough causing the T-Tabs to cave in and go all the way down the shaft. This would in turn make it impossible to tighten down the nut anymore because it would just spin in place. I took out my handy dandy rotary tool and made the slots deeper on the long pro-4 hub. Here is a quick drawing of what I did and I am happy to report that she did not bust loose all weekend!!!

- Dana

Rotary Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2004, 12:39 PM   #6021
Tech Elite
 
Pit-racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Cali/Texas
Posts: 2,241
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

So you guys are putting the spring on the opposite end?
__________________
www.igthobbies.com / Serpent Cobra GT / 748 TQ / Serpent Eryx 3.0 / Desoto Racing / Veytrex.com / JZRacing / Flo-Control
Pit-racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2004, 01:19 PM   #6022
Tech Master
 
RCBuddha's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,837
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default Re: Re: Diff issue revisited

Quote:
Originally posted by Rotary Racer
[B]Your fear is correct. I spent last week trying to figure this problem out before the race this past Sat. I got a Nirto diff re-build kit and that longer T-Nut was to long bumping into the dog bone. So I went out and bought the standard electric T-Nut assembly (AE part # 6575). When I assembled the diff with the new shorter nut I found that the groove of the long hub was not deep enough causing the T-Tabs to cave in and go all the way down the shaft. This would in turn make it impossible to tighten down the nut anymore because it would just spin in place. I took out my handy dandy rotary tool and made the slots deeper on the long pro-4 hub. Here is a quick drawing of what I did and I am happy to report that she did not bust loose all weekend!!!

- Dana
Dana,

Thanks for the info, I'm glad i wasn't the only one who was trying to find a solution to problem! I only hope HPI is taking your drawing and doing something about the problem!!

BTW, YGPM
RCBuddha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2004, 01:21 PM   #6023
Tech Addict
 
Skill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Doncaster, England
Posts: 537
Default

Just pre-ordered PRP's HTS chassis kit...should be good

Oh well...we'll just have to see as it will be a couple of weeks before it is shipped out I guess...
Skill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2004, 01:21 PM   #6024
Tech Master
 
RCBuddha's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,837
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Pit-racer
So you guys are putting the spring on the opposite end?
Pit,

You can use the spring on the same side as the thrust bearing; its just that I think the diff will hold its settings better if the the spring and nut are on the opposite side of the thrust bearing....
RCBuddha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2004, 01:28 PM   #6025
Tech Adept
 
X-Garage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 155
Default

Can I use TC3 drive shaft with PRO 4?
X-Garage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2004, 01:52 PM   #6026
Tech Master
 
onnetz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,727
Default

pro 4 shaft is 163mm
and the tc3 shaft is 175mm
onnetz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2004, 02:52 PM   #6027
Tech Elite
 
Pit-racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Cali/Texas
Posts: 2,241
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by RCBuddha
Pit,

You can use the spring on the same side as the thrust bearing; its just that I think the diff will hold its settings better if the the spring and nut are on the opposite side of the thrust bearing....
Thanks, I just was asking cause I'm in the process of redoing everything on the pro4 after this weekend race/tune session.
__________________
www.igthobbies.com / Serpent Cobra GT / 748 TQ / Serpent Eryx 3.0 / Desoto Racing / Veytrex.com / JZRacing / Flo-Control
Pit-racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2004, 03:03 PM   #6028
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 992
Default

Quote:
Your fear is correct. I spent last week trying to figure this problem out before the race this past Sat. I got a Nirto diff re-build kit and that longer T-Nut was to long bumping into the dog bone. So I went out and bought the standard electric T-Nut assembly (AE part # 6575). When I assembled the diff with the new shorter nut I found that the groove of the long hub was not deep enough causing the T-Tabs to cave in and go all the way down the shaft. This would in turn make it impossible to tighten down the nut anymore because it would just spin in place. I took out my handy dandy rotary tool and made the slots deeper on the long pro-4 hub. Here is a quick drawing of what I did and I am happy to report that she did not bust loose all weekend!!!
Why not just add more diff thrust washer? Or make another thrust bearings?
Like = screw-thrust-short cup + long cup-thrust(or thrust washers)-spring-nut
If the screw is long enough.

Last edited by Aku-Man; 07-06-2004 at 03:13 PM.
Aku-Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2004, 03:09 PM   #6029
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Paris - France
Posts: 398
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by X-Garage
Thanks!

I sometime have a problem with glitching. Is there a site to order one of those?

I have ordered the ferrit magnets from R10 in Japan, Yokomo has them in reference.
you can also order from them the heatsink, Eagle Racing.
Ralf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2004, 03:15 PM   #6030
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 154
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Aku-Man
Why not just add more diff thrust washer? Or make another thrust bearings?
Like = screw-thrust-short cup + long cup-thrust(or thrust washers)-spring-nut
You bring a very good point. Reason I did not do that is when the electric T-Nut is resting on the lowest part of the grove it is to far away from the top threads of the bolt. Simply put, the AE or even the HPI bolt is not long enough. I was thinking about heading down to my local metric hardware store and picking up a longer bolt with the correct pitch threads. I will keep you all appraised of my diff adventure

- Dana
Rotary Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:29 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0