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Old 06-01-2004, 10:49 PM   #5131
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Quote:
Originally posted by racer
which body would all of you prefer?

proline's Mazada 6 or hpi's nsx?

sorry to get off topic.

just need to get some input as to which car is better.

Thanks!
I like either the Aero 2 or the Mazda 6. both handle very well, much better than the stratus 2.0
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Old 06-01-2004, 11:26 PM   #5132
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Quote:
Originally posted by Super Steve
i'd say someone with bmi chassis conversion butcher their original front shocktower and see if they can mount a nsx body!
I already butchered mine...mounted the top hole in the lower mounting position on the diff housing...still will not work....
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Old 06-01-2004, 11:28 PM   #5133
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Originally posted by RCBuddha
zombies,

How are you running your diff? Did you put the spring and nut on the same side (i.e. opposite side from the thrust bearing)?

I'll have to try the parts this weekend, will let everyone know...
per the pro4 instructions...thrust bearings and spring on one side.
is there another way they go together?
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Old 06-01-2004, 11:37 PM   #5134
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
per the pro4 instructions...thrust bearings and spring on one side.
is there another way they go together?
I was thinking about assembling my diff with the AE parts like they have with their steel outdrive diffs: Thrust bearing on one side, spring and nut on the other. Like the way they have it in their b4/t4....I've NEVER understood why AE, yokomo and HPI all got away from this placement of the diff parts. This new design never seems to hold its settings without some serious tightning.... Perhaps Erik S. can provide some insight????

I think I may have to relocate the thrust bearing to the other other outdrive, but I think this may be the solution to the loose diffs that many are experiencing.....Will build one tonight and try on saturday....

Buddha
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Old 06-01-2004, 11:43 PM   #5135
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Quote:
Originally posted by azenis
hi guys
quick question...
aside from the difficulty in getting spares, what is your biggest beef with the Pro4? Or any other major problems?
Keeping the beautiful chassis from scraping on the asphalt, arrrggghhhh! I don't know... maybe, trying to drive w/ a one-way and not hitting anything that will strip the input gears! To be honest, I only had this problem when I went outdoors w/ PVC and a hot mod motor in the car.
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Old 06-01-2004, 11:51 PM   #5136
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Quote:
Originally posted by kewdawg
Keeping the beautiful chassis from scraping on the asphalt, arrrggghhhh!


I guess some tape underneath will help there?

Quote:
I don't know... maybe, trying to drive w/ a one-way and not hitting anything that will strip the input gears! To be honest, I only had this problem when I went outdoors w/ PVC and a hot mod motor in the car.
Yeah... Car I am looking at has a ball diff for the front as well. I will use my TA04 for drifting with PVC or are you using PVC to lay out a track?
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Old 06-01-2004, 11:59 PM   #5137
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Zombies,

Here's the diagram for the tc3, which has an exploded view of the way I just built my spare diff:

http://download.teamassociated.com/p...rawing_tc3.pdf

I JUST put my spare diff together like the diagram shows, so I'll test it this weekend....

Buddha
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Old 06-02-2004, 12:03 AM   #5138
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Yeah, I was referring to the track boarders being PVC. It's pretty easy to break, strip or mangle any internals in a touring car, moving at speeds of 30 - 40 mph.
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Old 06-02-2004, 12:18 AM   #5139
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i guess with a shaft drive you "may" not have the protection of a belts "give" so something will crunch... do people find that durability is better with a ball diff in the front?
We use planks to do our layout, thin bits of wood that look a bit like ripple strips, car usually just goes over the top of them, though a new model park is being built and i dont know what method will be used there...
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Old 06-02-2004, 12:34 AM   #5140
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The "Diff action" of the ball diff unloades power / force to the other wheel, moving forward or backward, eliminating the stripping of the gears. Using a one-way (the bearing turning in one direction only) doesn't allow the force from a crash to go anywhere - except to the drivetrain, where the gears are! So, the gears are virtually impossible to strip with a ball diff.
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Old 06-02-2004, 12:53 AM   #5141
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brilliant!! Just what I needed to hear
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Old 06-02-2004, 12:58 AM   #5142
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Quote:
Originally posted by azenis
brilliant!! Just what I needed to hear
Glad I could help. Off to bed I go. My eyes are burning. See ya'!
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Old 06-02-2004, 01:05 AM   #5143
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Cos I have found a 2nd hand one for sale, has both one way and a ball diff for the front.
So this is good - id rather a ball diff on our tracks anyhow as sometimes you need BRAKES

Do you have any other problems with it? Cos I am still deciding between the pro4 and xray (but i really dont want belt if i can avoid it as we get too much debris on the track that gets in the belts and pulleys on my ta04)
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Old 06-02-2004, 05:27 AM   #5144
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rc-zombies, rcbuddha

Thanks you both for the input on which shell better

time to get an M6!
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Old 06-02-2004, 09:02 AM   #5145
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCBuddha
Zombies,

Here's the diagram for the tc3, which has an exploded view of the way I just built my spare diff:

http://download.teamassociated.com/p...rawing_tc3.pdf

I JUST put my spare diff together like the diagram shows, so I'll test it this weekend....

Buddha
ahh..IC.... that's what I thought... thanks! when I had my TC3 never did have a problem with the diffs coming loose...may have to take the car apart again and redo the diffs...
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