Turbo Joe

iTrader: (41)

PM sent

Doug Gaut

Any interest in a two month old B4?

tc3 racer sc

please give us the set up of hara and thads plse and also whn the a-arms going to be distributed agin none at tower and other hobbystore im redy to run full throttle it been a mth now

tc3 racer sc

hi need a good stock set up on ashalpt shock, etc camber link and spacer , posted a while bck nver heard any thing

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

I have been the stock set up and I'm hooked up on med. traction asphalt,Have you tried the set up from the book??

tc3 racer sc

that set up is for modified right

Doug Gaut

The book setup is pretty dialed for stock racing.

Doug Gaut

What ever happened to RCBuddha? He always had great info to share!!

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

The box set-up is really good w/ foams( plaid or cyan up front and tan in the rear) on asphalt. If, you're gonna run mod - on medium to high bite asphalt, use spring weights from 17.5 - 25 lbs. (Xray Ultimate springs L. blue, Blue and D. Blue, respectively). You can use TC3 or Hpi springs to get in the ball park of the spring rates. Also, depending on traction and roughness of surface, you may want to use the lightest swaybar(copper) on the rear. Good luck!

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

Still here guys....I've been super busy the last two or three months, but i still surf around on rctech.....

The box setup works well for stock, but i prefer a stiffer setup for mod. Lately, i've been playing around with no swaybars, and its been working pretty well with red/blue springs.

Knock on wood, three months without a gear strippage/breakage...

I've also been testing with a ball diff in the front, and i've found the car STILL has a healthy amount of steering. However, the one-way is still faster for me.

One new tip: Make sure you keep your bellcranks on the tighter side, it'll keep the steering more precise, and keep the car tracking straight.

Two problems though: I'm getting some serious tweak in the chassis after running the car. I've tried various things to fix it, but for the life of me, I cant keep the car going straight down the straightaway!

Second Problem: I'm now suffering from "Diff come loose" initis.....Its not terrible, but having to readjust my diff after each run is getting annoying...

@ Erik S or Thad,

Any solutions / hints?

JDXray

iTrader: (3)

Erik i have the same problem, i think the chassis was tweaked when you were building it. I think they say that it can happen when you build your kit, that the chassis is prone to tweak. i can keep my car straight, i have to play aroung with steering alot. But overall i have the same question as you, does anyone know how to fix this?

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

names not Erik, was trying to get his attention....

When I first built my kit, the chassis was fine, it had no problems with fitting the upperdeck. My thinking is that some of the screws may have worn their holes in the upper or lower decks, putting a slight tweak into it, since you have to remove the entire top portion of the car to get to the diffs....

craig (that's my real name...just like in my sig.... )

JDXray

iTrader: (3)

lol my bad craig i was just reading it fast, and saw Erik at the bottom.

Ya getting those diffs are a big pain, and i usually have to get to them alot.

Also my question is: My diffs keep getting loose and whenever i tighten them they just get loose again. Do i need new ones? I will go ahead an try the car right now and see if it spinning out/over spinning.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

use the diff spring, nut and screw from the TC3...this will help eliminate the diffs from coming loose...