Hpi Pro 4
#5026
hmm...strange.
are them scratches off the bevel gear?
as i cant see any scratches in mine..i just looked...wierd aint it!
are them scratches off the bevel gear?
as i cant see any scratches in mine..i just looked...wierd aint it!
#5027
Tech Adept
Originally posted by rc_square24
why does my setup system(hudy type) shows that one side of my rear axles as 2deg(exactly) and the other as 3deg.
the car is new, stock parts so the 2deg side should be 3 instead of 2.
anyway to fix this or its my systems problem? im using the integy made set.
i also found that on both diff cases there were material scratched off where the beveled gear spins closest to, even with one shim on the bearing.
this is what i did
why does my setup system(hudy type) shows that one side of my rear axles as 2deg(exactly) and the other as 3deg.
the car is new, stock parts so the 2deg side should be 3 instead of 2.
anyway to fix this or its my systems problem? im using the integy made set.
i also found that on both diff cases there were material scratched off where the beveled gear spins closest to, even with one shim on the bearing.
this is what i did
#5028
Tech Elite
Originally posted by rc_square24
why does my setup system(hudy type) shows that one side of my rear axles as 2deg(exactly) and the other as 3deg.
the car is new, stock parts so the 2deg side should be 3 instead of 2.
anyway to fix this or its my systems problem? im using the integy made set.
i also found that on both diff cases there were material scratched off where the beveled gear spins closest to, even with one shim on the bearing.
this is what i did
why does my setup system(hudy type) shows that one side of my rear axles as 2deg(exactly) and the other as 3deg.
the car is new, stock parts so the 2deg side should be 3 instead of 2.
anyway to fix this or its my systems problem? im using the integy made set.
i also found that on both diff cases there were material scratched off where the beveled gear spins closest to, even with one shim on the bearing.
this is what i did
Actually with set-up gauges, EACH side should read 1.5 degrees for a total of 3 degrees (with the kit supplied rear block).
If the Car has been run already, look for a bent hinge pin. The rear hub carriers are indentical, so you can't make a mistake there.
The rubbing marks indicates some kind of binding going on. I would inspect everything again carefully. Might be that you need an extra shim on that side to keep the gear(s) from being pushed into the case sides under power.
#5029
Tech Elite
6mm clamping Hex Hubs
rc-zombies;
Glad you mentioned that about the ones from HPI. I kept my backorder with Tower just in case.
JDM_DOHC_SiR;
I am using some extra graphite hexes from the Pro-3, but they are a very sloppy fit on the axles and come off at every wheel change.
Glad you mentioned that about the ones from HPI. I kept my backorder with Tower just in case.
JDM_DOHC_SiR;
I am using some extra graphite hexes from the Pro-3, but they are a very sloppy fit on the axles and come off at every wheel change.
#5030
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally posted by rc_square24
why does my setup system(hudy type) shows that one side of my rear axles as 2deg(exactly) and the other as 3deg.
the car is new, stock parts so the 2deg side should be 3 instead of 2.
anyway to fix this or its my systems problem? im using the integy made set.
i also found that on both diff cases there were material scratched off where the beveled gear spins closest to, even with one shim on the bearing.
this is what i did
why does my setup system(hudy type) shows that one side of my rear axles as 2deg(exactly) and the other as 3deg.
the car is new, stock parts so the 2deg side should be 3 instead of 2.
anyway to fix this or its my systems problem? im using the integy made set.
i also found that on both diff cases there were material scratched off where the beveled gear spins closest to, even with one shim on the bearing.
this is what i did
I highly recommend the PRP diff plate. it solve all problems of any diff problems.
#5031
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Re: 6mm clamping Hex Hubs
Originally posted by popsracer
JDM_DOHC_SiR;
I am using some extra graphite hexes from the Pro-3, but they are a very sloppy fit on the axles and come off at every wheel change.
JDM_DOHC_SiR;
I am using some extra graphite hexes from the Pro-3, but they are a very sloppy fit on the axles and come off at every wheel change.
I wasn't using the Carbon ones I was using the Alloy ones that came with my Hara Pro3.... I never did use the Carbon ones..
-Dave
#5032
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Re: 6mm clamping Hex Hubs
Originally posted by popsracer
rc-zombies;
Glad you mentioned that about the ones from HPI. I kept my backorder with Tower just in case.
JDM_DOHC_SiR;
I am using some extra graphite hexes from the Pro-3, but they are a very sloppy fit on the axles and come off at every wheel change.
rc-zombies;
Glad you mentioned that about the ones from HPI. I kept my backorder with Tower just in case.
JDM_DOHC_SiR;
I am using some extra graphite hexes from the Pro-3, but they are a very sloppy fit on the axles and come off at every wheel change.
I too have the graphite hex from Pro-4... put a little shoo goo, I mean very little... in the pin slot and it should stay in place...
#5034
Tech Elite
Originally posted by Super Steve
Anyways, 3 degree toeblock means 3 degree on either side totalling 6 degree as far as i know...
Anyways, 3 degree toeblock means 3 degree on either side totalling 6 degree as far as i know...
3 degrees (total) is usually considered the Maximum in On-Road, especially on Electric Cars.
The HPI blocks are labeled for TOTAL degrees, right+left.
#5036
Tech Adept
Originally posted by popsracer
6 degrees Toe on a Touring Car!!??
3 degrees (total) is usually considered the Maximum in On-Road, especially on Electric Cars.
The HPI blocks are labeled for TOTAL degrees, right+left.
6 degrees Toe on a Touring Car!!??
3 degrees (total) is usually considered the Maximum in On-Road, especially on Electric Cars.
The HPI blocks are labeled for TOTAL degrees, right+left.
(just an example---->)And 2.5 on the right and 2.5 on the left is not 5 degrees. It's just 2.5 degrees.
#5037
y do u have to get the 6mm hex clamp? whats wrong with the stock ones?
#5038
Originally posted by cHckbOY5
y do u have to get the 6mm hex clamp? whats wrong with the stock ones?
y do u have to get the 6mm hex clamp? whats wrong with the stock ones?
#5039
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Originally posted by Downforce
There is no TOTAL toe. The toe is per side. 3 degree block is 3 degrees per side AND NOT ADDED. The way you guys are explaining it. You could have 2 degrees on the right and 3 on the left for 5 degrees. That is wrong.
(just an example---->)And 2.5 on the right and 2.5 on the left is not 5 degrees. It's just 2.5 degrees.
There is no TOTAL toe. The toe is per side. 3 degree block is 3 degrees per side AND NOT ADDED. The way you guys are explaining it. You could have 2 degrees on the right and 3 on the left for 5 degrees. That is wrong.
(just an example---->)And 2.5 on the right and 2.5 on the left is not 5 degrees. It's just 2.5 degrees.
Anyways,
I already last one of the spacer somehow...
#5040
You know I feel sorry for Erik S. from HPI. He designs a awesome car like the pro4. Very well thought out good looking and great handling. But HPI drops the ball on parts support. Its been two months and still no arms available. They have hop ups but no spares for the car. I like the car, i havent had any problems as far as tweak. I have broken 1 gear, and 2 arms. I deserved to break it. They were very hard hits from dumb driving by me. But come on HPI. I would like to start pushing the car harder but too scared to because there is no parts. Maybe Xray has a job opening for Erik S.? Xray is my next car. I think I will just hang this beautiful car on wall.