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Old 04-28-2004, 03:18 PM   #4066
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Quote:
Originally posted by raving-monkey
this may sound dumb but what happens when something 'delmainates'?
If you've ever seen a graphite plate chassis with damage after smacking the wall hard, then you are familiar with delamination.

It happens when the layers of the plate start to seperate from one another, kind of like a splintering effect. Imagine a stack of papers. Now take your hand and mess up a corner of the stack. You can see that the edge of some papers no longer sets evenly with the papers below and above it. The edge of some papers are bent and won't sit level with the rest of the sheets of paper. It's the same thing with graphite chassis.
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Old 04-28-2004, 03:21 PM   #4067
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where can i get the hara orion motor?
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Old 04-28-2004, 03:25 PM   #4068
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thanks for that cartmen.

maybe that is what my friend is on about when he says his carbon chassis is splitting on his 12th
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Old 04-28-2004, 03:51 PM   #4069
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
Order some from RainbowTen or RcModel overseas...shipping is not much more than Tower's
RC-Zombies is totally correct. I ordered some Pro 4 parts from Rainbow 10 (Thanks RC_Zombies) and they got here in 3 days and that was with the EMS shipping. It maybe not worth the price when ordering several small items, but then again how much is it worth to run your car and know that you have parts in your pit box?

Just food for thought.

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Old 04-28-2004, 03:55 PM   #4070
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by rayhuang
[B]Pro-Squat is when you put a shim under the rear block in the back. What does it do on the track? IT helps the car carry more speed in tight corners. Car rotates and doesnt slow down nearly as much as without it. It feels like putting roll in your radio.

Why does it do it? I have no idea!!!

Ray,

I appreciate it.

Thanks, Mike
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Old 04-28-2004, 04:52 PM   #4071
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he said.

it helps carry more speed into tight corners.

i just got mine on stock setting and it seems to work ok.
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Old 04-28-2004, 05:50 PM   #4072
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Just a question for Erik on the arms--
When i have broken arms they all break almost the same place. This is on the arm at the outside of the swaybar ballstud where the arm doglegs sharply. Sometimes arm will also break on the front where the caster block sits. Either way, maybe you could look into this. The fact that so many people need arms makes me wonder if the "dogleg" is some sort of stress point. Anyway thanks.
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Old 04-28-2004, 07:06 PM   #4073
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Default Hobby People

Guys;

In defence of Hobby People, you have to understand that the stores are corporate owned. Each store receives it's merchandise (kits, parts, etc.) based on what the main office/warehouse sends us.
Each store also receives their shipment ONLY one time each week and except for special orders, has no control over what they receive.
The independantly owned Hobby Shops can call a distributor, and within reason, have a shipment out the next day.

If you not finding the parts at the (Hobby People) stores, it is probably because some Gearhead (like myself) has already bought up all the stock on the shelf and the warehouse has not sent replacements yet.

You can also have any of the local stores do a inventory stock check, that will show what stores have the part(s) in stock.

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Old 04-28-2004, 07:44 PM   #4074
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which tap size should i use to tap the holes on the pro4?

a tap and a tap wrench were recommnaded by pro4 ppl at the track when i ordered mine but i was dump enough to not ask about which size to get
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Old 04-28-2004, 08:10 PM   #4075
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Default Broken parts and spares

The only parts I've broken so far are the ring bevel gears in the front when I used a 1-way and the front hubs and I run at SWR where the boards are unforgiving. Even Losi's break.
Things that I did to limit breakages are:
1. Added a BRP bumper
2. "soaked" the bevel gears in warm water as descrived in several posts early in the forum
3. Lubed the gears with Pedro's Ice Wax chain lube (equivalent to white lightning ) obtained at good MTB stores.
4. Shimmed the diffs for very little side to side play without binding. Yes this takes time
5. Ran the drive train w/o the CVDs connected for 30 minutes to ":seat" the gears" using a spare motor at 3 Volts.
6. As an extra precaution when I assembled the front 1-way I added more lube into the diff case. Since the diff case seals well there is no problem with leakage
7. Replacing the 1-way with a diff also helps a lot.

When I get the PRP 1-way diff plates the 1-way goes back into the car.

Lastly I try and stay away from the boards. Tough to do.

When I got the car I immediately ordered extra gears, arms and drive shafts through LHS (if they had stock) Rainbow and Miniworld.
Now I have some extras viz. 3 sets of Bevel gears (73501), 1 Aluminium drive shaft (75105) , 1 set of arms (73506). These are all still packaged. I also have an unpackaged arm set and a driveshaft and a packaged set of Square Aluminium Purple anodized shock mounting parts (8 pieces) which are replacements for OEM part # 73510
Email me if you are interested. and I'll send pictures

The one gripe I have is that the block and hub set (73507) come as a pair and it would be better if they are packaged 2 of each instead of a pair.
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Old 04-28-2004, 09:45 PM   #4076
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fire
which tap size should i use to tap the holes on the pro4?

a tap and a tap wrench were recommnaded by pro4 ppl at the track when i ordered mine but i was dump enough to not ask about which size to get
You'll need a 3mm for all of the screws except the ones for the droop. For those, you'll need a 4mm tap.

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Old 04-28-2004, 09:49 PM   #4077
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Default Carpet set-up Questions

As i drive this car at The Gate-I find myself looking for more steering and quicker transition-a LOT more corner speed. Things the car had loads of at another carpet track. Weird. Both Ozite tracks-but ones BIg and ones small.

Anyways-my newest question for you smart guys is-Hara;s recommended set-up for the Gate is 0 degree front arm sweep. Thats also what Erik was talking about on his last post.

Why is there 2.5 degrees arm sweep in car now and why would 0 be better? I am NOT arguing-just trying to learn.

SOmeone please explain.

Thanks,
Ray
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Old 04-28-2004, 09:55 PM   #4078
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Going from 2.5 to 0 up front would take steering away and free the front end up.
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Old 04-28-2004, 10:00 PM   #4079
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If you do not change the steering link turnbuckle length and only change the block from say 2.5 degrees to 0 degrees you should get more toe-in and hence more stability and a less aggressive steering. Does the angle or sweep of the arm contribute to the way the camber would change on turning in?
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Old 04-28-2004, 10:08 PM   #4080
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Ray: try this one....
Test the rollout section.

I think I did it right this time...

HPI Pro4 editable and printable Form -V2-
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