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Old 04-28-2004, 09:55 AM   #4051
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Sweeet-I opened up your set-up sheet now and it opens up and everything!! Already filled it out and printed it.
I cannot seem to get the correct rollout-but I will take another look at that. It appears the number in the rollout box needs to be divided by thefinal drive of 2.4375.

Thanks again Tres.
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Old 04-28-2004, 09:59 AM   #4052
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Found it...

I did the math quick and took the wrong value....

New sheet will be up soon!

Ray: email me if you want the updated one.
It will be a little while before I can get it on the web.
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Last edited by Tres; 04-28-2004 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 04-28-2004, 11:07 AM   #4053
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Default Pro4 diff

OPinions are like --- ----- and everyones got them, BUT-here si what I think is the best way to build a diff for a Tc3 and now a pro4. And there will be lots of opinions here!!

For running Mod I do think it beneficial to sand the diff rings with 600 grit. I gave up-resanding used diss. I flip it over and then toss-em.

For stock-I just make sure they are clean.

I build the thrust assembly witha BIG doughnut of Associated black grease and push the balls into it. I then put a thin bead on top and put the top washer in place.

ON the gear-I put a good size drop in every hole that the diff balls go into with Associated Stealth lube. There are other diff lubes that build a smoother diff-but who cares if you have to overtighten the diff to get it tight. I want my diffs to feel like they are loose as a goose when rotating opposing wheels, but be locked when hlding the spur. NO grease on the rings!!!

I then place all the balls into the gear and usually put a small layer of stealth lube on my finger tip to help pick them up. I usually clean my finger tips with motor spray before starting too. Sick-but oh-well. I used to clean Karts when I was a kid with acetone-so I am already toxic.

I assemble the diff and spin the diff halves together untill I get them to seat lightly. I now spin the gear untill I feel the action get buttery smooth. Now I spent the next few minutes slowly tightening and rotaing the gear till my finers turn red and I leave sufficent DNA behind on the gear. I hold the diff halves with my Parma allen wrenches in one hand and spin the gear with the other. When i thik they are locked-the front more than the rear-I install them and check them with wheels on, diff halves tight. Etc. Time consuming-but the best.

Anyways-The final step is to either run them in by putting the right wheels on the table and letting the left ones spin and them do the other side-or do it on the track. NEVER let a diff slip audibly with a mod in it. Bye-bye diff balls and rings.

Ialso have used the Associted diff spring over the HPI one. I thnk it helps.

but one thing I have noticed-is you really need to tighten the diffs in the Pro4 more than you think is enough because they do loosen up. I think they stop loosening once yu finally have them tight enough to get sufficient pressure on the assembly to keep the nut from backing off (i.e. compress the diff spring enough)

Ray
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Old 04-28-2004, 11:22 AM   #4054
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would the diff screw snap in half if i go too tught? cuz thats what happened with my Pro2, and im having problems with the diff staying tight, but afraid to go too far. i have threadlock on though..

Thanks
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Old 04-28-2004, 11:23 AM   #4055
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on the pro4 for ur info.
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Old 04-28-2004, 11:28 AM   #4056
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc_square24
would the diff screw snap in half if i go too tught? cuz thats what happened with my Pro2, and im having problems with the diff staying tight, but afraid to go too far. i have threadlock on though..

Thanks
I have-knock on wood-compressed the spring fully before and never stripped the nut or broken a screw.

Its weird-but in all the years I have had Tc3's sometimes they get tight 1/4 turn from compressed and sometimes as far as 2 1/2 turns out. Maybe-just maybe different diff rings are slightly different thickness and if you sand them-of course you need to tighten them more.
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Old 04-28-2004, 11:32 AM   #4057
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compress the spring several times with pliers before you install it.
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Old 04-28-2004, 12:06 PM   #4058
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Default Fine then...

If the whole supply chain is the problem, not HPI...then why doesn't HPI put the inventory they have up on "BUY HPI" and sell it direct?

Who's gonna complain about that? The LHS and the distributor who can't (according to HPI) get their act together?

It's not like the guys who need parts aren't asking for them. If HPI has parts, then why not sell them to the people who need them?

Craig...I'll have the arms out today, Priority Mail.
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Old 04-28-2004, 12:12 PM   #4059
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc_square24
would the diff screw snap in half if i go too tught? cuz thats what happened with my Pro2, and im having problems with the diff staying tight, but afraid to go too far. i have threadlock on though..

Thanks
I actually had the head of the screw break off after I tightened almost to the end. I was working the diff and the head of the screw shot out of the outdrive. I replaced the HPI spring with the AE spring and it has been lots better.
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Old 04-28-2004, 12:30 PM   #4060
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Quote:
Originally posted by rod_b
I actually had the head of the screw break off after I tightened almost to the end. I was working the diff and the head of the screw shot out of the outdrive. I replaced the HPI spring with the AE spring and it has been lots better.
Wow-I dont know what I would say if that were me-but I am sure it wouldn't be pretty. "What the #@@%@*&@#@#!!! Screw!!!"
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Old 04-28-2004, 01:31 PM   #4061
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LOL - I have done that on my TC3 once. Tighten the screw down all the way ,went to back it off and the head came off. Thats was my exact words too... #@@%@*&@#@#!!!
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Old 04-28-2004, 01:33 PM   #4062
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Thanks Joe. Its sad that I have to get parts from fellow racers.I would think companies would love to have people lined to buy product. That also brings out a good question.Its been bugging me for years why RC car companies dont do online ordering? Has GP and Horizon got such a hold on the industry that no one can do business without them? I understand the distr-LHS deal but we are in a global market-a on demand world. I can order stuff from half way around the world and have it in a week. What would prevent HPI from selling all there parts online even if the price was the same as a LHS? I used to work for a Chevy parts place that was all mailorder. With 5 people would could do 200 packages a day. Would selling online be that bad that rc companies couldnt do it monetary?
Worst part is I have Solidwork/Autocad and a machine shop in the garage. I should just start machining parts out.

Thanks to rczombies and Turbojoe.

Last edited by CraigH; 04-28-2004 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 04-28-2004, 02:17 PM   #4063
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FYI: for those that need it...

http://www.kthobbies.com/store/pro_4_parts.htm

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/advan...ufacturers_id=
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Last edited by Tres; 04-28-2004 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 04-28-2004, 02:33 PM   #4064
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well i went online and got some spares from rc model today after I talked to my LHS and was told that HPI sent back parts due to delamination ,I didnt think that injection molded parts could delaminate.
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Old 04-28-2004, 03:10 PM   #4065
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this may sound dumb but what happens when something 'delmainates'?
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