Hpi Pro 4
#3826
Tech Addict
Originally posted by Erik Shauver
xxxkat: The 75141 comes with 2x B020 Bearings (5x8x2.5mm). If they are missing, something is wrong.
xxxkat: The 75141 comes with 2x B020 Bearings (5x8x2.5mm). If they are missing, something is wrong.
#3828
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Jeff: isn't everything Doug runs fast!
Wow, so much to cover. First off thanks for the responses from everyone. Now...
-RCBudda and Doug: thanks for the suggestion with the lower shock mount. I thought about moving it, but didn't want to screw up anything handling wise. Good to know the change can be made without any ill effects
-black-knight and Turbo Joe: I guess I was fortunate then that I only had one bad cap. But I still plan on getting a replacement from HPI. If their customer service is up to par, it should be no problem
-Pinion: I thought about flipping it backwards, but the set screw hardlly made it to the shaft, so I was a little nervous about doing this. I'm not too concerned about it, I just thought it was odd to only be able to get 50% contact. Definitely not a big problem though
-VenomWorldOrder: I wish I had known ahead of time that the suspension and some other components were carbon graphite. I would have found me a tap or something! After screwing all those screws in, I woke up this morning with my shoulders killing me! The grease really helped though, or I still might be cranking on some of those screws! Your dead on correct with that "use quality tools" thing. I switched from my MIP Thorp 2mm driver to the "bargin" tip that came with my ratcheting screwdriver, and nearly destroyed a screw head while threading it into the gearbox cover. Needless to say, I switched back to the MIP Thorp driver quick, fast, and in a hurry!
Its nice to see that everything that could be on this car is already on there. No 'factory team' or 'Driver X Edition' cars needed here. Sweet.
Wow, so much to cover. First off thanks for the responses from everyone. Now...
-RCBudda and Doug: thanks for the suggestion with the lower shock mount. I thought about moving it, but didn't want to screw up anything handling wise. Good to know the change can be made without any ill effects
-black-knight and Turbo Joe: I guess I was fortunate then that I only had one bad cap. But I still plan on getting a replacement from HPI. If their customer service is up to par, it should be no problem
-Pinion: I thought about flipping it backwards, but the set screw hardlly made it to the shaft, so I was a little nervous about doing this. I'm not too concerned about it, I just thought it was odd to only be able to get 50% contact. Definitely not a big problem though
-VenomWorldOrder: I wish I had known ahead of time that the suspension and some other components were carbon graphite. I would have found me a tap or something! After screwing all those screws in, I woke up this morning with my shoulders killing me! The grease really helped though, or I still might be cranking on some of those screws! Your dead on correct with that "use quality tools" thing. I switched from my MIP Thorp 2mm driver to the "bargin" tip that came with my ratcheting screwdriver, and nearly destroyed a screw head while threading it into the gearbox cover. Needless to say, I switched back to the MIP Thorp driver quick, fast, and in a hurry!
Its nice to see that everything that could be on this car is already on there. No 'factory team' or 'Driver X Edition' cars needed here. Sweet.
#3829
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
couple other questions...
I did have something else I was wondering about...
What are all the extra holes for? I know one is for the middle post if you choose to run it,, but what about the others?
I know the ones on the battery side are for the stick pack holders so I wont list those 4, but...
2 holes in the upper deck(besides the one for the middle post)
4 down the middle of the lower chassis(besides the one for the middle post)
and finally...
2 holes in the lower chassis outside the motor location???
anyway...I'll have pics of my car up soon.
What are all the extra holes for? I know one is for the middle post if you choose to run it,, but what about the others?
I know the ones on the battery side are for the stick pack holders so I wont list those 4, but...
2 holes in the upper deck(besides the one for the middle post)
4 down the middle of the lower chassis(besides the one for the middle post)
and finally...
2 holes in the lower chassis outside the motor location???
anyway...I'll have pics of my car up soon.
#3830
i use my pinion that way round.
if you dont want to just get hold of a short bose pinion and it should fit either way with no problems.....altho i am using 48dp dont know if this makes a difference
if you dont want to just get hold of a short bose pinion and it should fit either way with no problems.....altho i am using 48dp dont know if this makes a difference
#3832
Tech Master
Thanks Jeff and Darkseid. I try. We will have a good time at the HOA race!!! I bet with the freer drivetrain I have now compared to the car I ran last year a 10t will be in order and still make run time instead of having to drop to an 11t.
Acutts, we run on a outdoor concrete track and it does not have the bite that an asphalt track has but the instruction manual setup worked flawlessly with these changes. Moved the rear shocks in one hole, went to 40wt oil and changed ride height to 5mm front and 5.5mm rear. Same droop,etc as the manual. Oneway and all.
Darkseid. I believe those extra holes on the main chassis are for weights like what the X-Rays use. I have yet to find any of those cool weight so I just used the Assoc double stick weights.
Guess I was one of the lucky ones, my car went together with no hitches!!!!
Acutts, we run on a outdoor concrete track and it does not have the bite that an asphalt track has but the instruction manual setup worked flawlessly with these changes. Moved the rear shocks in one hole, went to 40wt oil and changed ride height to 5mm front and 5.5mm rear. Same droop,etc as the manual. Oneway and all.
Darkseid. I believe those extra holes on the main chassis are for weights like what the X-Rays use. I have yet to find any of those cool weight so I just used the Assoc double stick weights.
Guess I was one of the lucky ones, my car went together with no hitches!!!!
#3833
Originally posted by rayhuang
I mounted my pinion on backwards and my car went in reverse when I hit the gas.
I mounted my pinion on backwards and my car went in reverse when I hit the gas.
#3834
Originally posted by rayhuang
I mounted my pinion on backwards and my car went in reverse when I hit the gas.
I mounted my pinion on backwards and my car went in reverse when I hit the gas.
Sure ur diffs wernt in the wrong way or sumthin silly like that??
#3835
...
Last edited by Erik Shauver; 09-11-2006 at 01:43 PM.
#3836
Tech Regular
Or your motor was hooked up backwards.
#3837
...
Last edited by Erik Shauver; 09-11-2006 at 01:51 PM.
#3838
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
TWEAK cont...
RC Buddha started it with "Set ride height first, then camber, then tweak"
that has been the approach i have been using for the past few years, with good results...
just to add $0.02 more..... though most of the car kits come with droop guages, i don't use them to set up my car... I still rely on the ol' 'X-Acto_centered_and_lift' approach...
imo,... droop adjustments are made to control/balance weight distribution.. those droop guages are commonly used to set all four corners (or the 2 front equal and the 2 rear equal) at a distance determined from the flattness of the bottom of the chassis..... i think that this would be valid only if you knew that the chassis (with electronics intalled) were absolutely balanced left-to-right..
$0.02..
that has been the approach i have been using for the past few years, with good results...
just to add $0.02 more..... though most of the car kits come with droop guages, i don't use them to set up my car... I still rely on the ol' 'X-Acto_centered_and_lift' approach...
imo,... droop adjustments are made to control/balance weight distribution.. those droop guages are commonly used to set all four corners (or the 2 front equal and the 2 rear equal) at a distance determined from the flattness of the bottom of the chassis..... i think that this would be valid only if you knew that the chassis (with electronics intalled) were absolutely balanced left-to-right..
$0.02..
#3839
One of my shock caps doesn't screw down completely, so I'm going to have to contact HPI customer service for a replacement. Cause the way it is allows the oil to bleed through the hole. I made a temperary fix, but a new cap is the only real solution.
#3840
Tech Champion
iTrader: (5)
Originally posted by Erik Shauver
rayhuang: Ray, you may want to set the motor timing around 10~20 degrees instead of 190~200 degrees (if you're not pulling our leg )
rayhuang: Ray, you may want to set the motor timing around 10~20 degrees instead of 190~200 degrees (if you're not pulling our leg )
Did you read my post a few pages back about the carpet foam test day?
I'd like your input on the pro-squat. Also-on roll centers, whats the "feel" of lowering and raising the inner ballstuds as compared to lowering and raising the bottom hingepins. Is it opposite effect?
Thanks,
Ray