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Old 04-21-2004, 09:25 PM   #3811
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Quote:
Originally posted by cartmen34
So...I can't help but notice you gots' yoself' one of those fancy schmancy BMI chassis for the Pro4. IYO, would you say this drastically helps the tweak issues on the pro4? As much as I hate spending this much on one car, I'll do it because this car has so many other great features.

Also...does anybody know if BMI is selling them to the general public yet?
I won't sit here and blow smoke and tell that the BMI chassis setup will solve all the tweak problems. I will say that it makes my car stiffer and has less flex. Is it the ultimate cure for tweak (No). Do I like my BMI chassis setup (yes). Did I notice my car running better with it (yes). Do you need to buy this to make the Pro 4 run well (No).

BMI is selling their Pro4 chassis kit to the public. Jason is awaiting his graphite shipment to arrive and as soon as it does he will be frantically cutting chassis's for all those who would like them. Xray, Pro4, and TC3. The Cuda and Yoke are forth coming.
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Old 04-21-2004, 10:14 PM   #3812
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Default Re: need help with ride height/tweak

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Originally posted by nosyajg
hi everyone...got me a new pro 4, and car is awesome...just need some help/suggestions though...

i used the integy alignment plates and MIP tweak board to get everything aligned correctly, but after the car balances out on the tweak board, the side of the chassis with the batteries is noticeably lower than the side with the electronics...

the right side (electronics) is higher by 2mm than the left (battery)side...ride height measured from the center of the sides of the chassis is: right- 3.5mm, and left- 5.5mm...

the car pretty much turns equal, and tracks straight, but i get some scraping of the chassis on the battery side...any way to raise the chassis without having to compromise the tweak???

is adding weight to the left side the only alternative???

all of my adjustments are what the manual says...

thanx in advance...
Set ride height first, then camber, then tweak. Try that and let us know if it works...
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Old 04-21-2004, 10:31 PM   #3813
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Just finished building the Pro4. Few things of note.

-the open ended ball joints(such as the ones used on the steering link and sway bar mounts) were a little inconsistent. Some popped on with no problem, but some were very stiff and required work to free them up.

-One of my shock caps doesn't screw down completely, so I'm going to have to contact HPI customer service for a replacement. Cause the way it is allows the oil to bleed through the hole. I made a temperary fix, but a new cap is the only real solution.

-Not quite sure whats the best pinions to use on this car. My Trinity pinions hardly get 50% of the spur even when pushed all the way up the shaft. My Robinson pinions get like 60% if I slide them all the way up to the base of the motor. Are there any pinions on the market that will allow full spur to pinion contact?

-I love the amount of space there is for electronics mounting. This is the only TC I have had that allowed me to mount my GT7 and XXtra receiver flat on the chassis. Usually the XXtra had to be on its side.

Hmmm...what else caugth my eye??? Oh, yeah, the lower rear shock mounting position is really, really close to the rear tires. That makes me a little nervous, but not really a problem.

-And this thing is quiet. I like that.

-The drivetrain is smooth. Not quite where my Yok SD was, but that was after I had done some work on the SD. Don't know if I'll do the same work on Pro4, depends on how lazy I am!

I'll be running the car in 19 spec this weekend. So hopefully I'll have some good luck with it. I wont have the front diff by then, so I'll be taking it real easy.

Should be fun.
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Old 04-21-2004, 10:36 PM   #3814
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Darkseid,

I'd suggest moving the rear lower shock mount in one hole, I ran mine in the stock position, and with the yok precision wheels, it grinded the eyelet. FYI
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Old 04-21-2004, 10:44 PM   #3815
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Darkseid, I am running Robinson pinions and you are correct. I can only get 50% (less friction,LOL) on the gear but I am going to add a motor spacer to get the armature shaft farther back to get a full pinion.

I too noticed the lower mount hitting my wheels so I just moved the lower shock into the next hole in and the car is working superb.

After a weekend or two the car really frees up!!

I plan on coming up to KC for the HOA race May1st and 2nd. If you go we could compare notes and setup ideas.
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Old 04-21-2004, 11:04 PM   #3816
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darkseid



-One of my shock caps doesn't screw down completely, so I'm going to have to contact HPI customer service for a replacement. Cause the way it is allows the oil to bleed through the hole. I made a temperary fix, but a new cap is the only real solution.

All 4 of my shock caps are like this on my 2nd kit
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Old 04-21-2004, 11:17 PM   #3817
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Originally posted by Doug Gaut
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No problemo.
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Old 04-21-2004, 11:29 PM   #3818
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Default Shock caps

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Originally posted by black-knight
All 4 of my shock caps are like this on my 2nd kit
Two of mine were like that. The bleed hole "bungs" up the threads in the cap, such that the shock body wouldn't thread past that point. It looked like two of the caps had the hole drilled a little lower.

I just shortened the shock body by a thread on those two and it worked...but it was a bit of a pain.

Oh yeah...on the pinion thing...I just flip mine "backwards" (Robinson, 34T aluminum) and it catches the whole gear, no problem.
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Old 04-22-2004, 12:35 AM   #3819
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man problems with shock caps? seems like there so many problems... i wonder if my kit is like that
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Old 04-22-2004, 01:11 AM   #3820
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Just wondering what sort of droop settings (Front and Back) are a good starting point for a low grip outside tarmac track?

Also what tool you are using to measure them as this sometimes gives different readings (I have the Hudy gauges and the Kit one)

Cheers
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Old 04-22-2004, 01:56 AM   #3821
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCBuddha
In all honesty, having a 3mm chassis isn't necessarily going to solve the tweaking issue. WYD has it correct, every car develops a tweak of some sort. NO car is totally immune. I'm sure neither BMI or PRP would be willing to guarrantee that their chassis will be "tweak proof".
Finally, at least some people understand that the tweak issue is not a reason to go out and be forced to spend any extra money on the car. Buying the newest option from some aftermarket company will not make your car tweak-free or you that much faster, if at all. If you do a couple minute's work on the car (loosen screws, then tighten them - periodically check your ride height, MIP Tweak Station and droop) between runs you'll have a tweak-free car. It's pretty simple.

And cHckbOY5 - if every niggling problem is going to bug you about the Pro 4, don't worry - you won't find a perfect car anywhere that won't have some little issue or something to deal with. I think you're reading too much about these things online instead of practicing at the track and learning about the car firsthand.
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Old 04-22-2004, 02:00 AM   #3822
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yeah i read to much just wanna see wat tips and opinions ppl have to say
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Old 04-22-2004, 03:19 AM   #3823
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and there isnt really a race track near me so its just parking lot for now
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Old 04-22-2004, 04:53 AM   #3824
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Quote:
Originally posted by cHckbOY5
and there isnt really a race track near me so its just parking lot for now
trust me bro the car is sick!. the plastic quality is awesome the fit is exact and the issues people have are one in 100 stuff. parking lot racers shouldn't have a issue with the front oneway.

before building the kit though see if you can get your hands on a "kose" thread/screw hole enlarger. it has to be 3mm. some plastic parts are very tight.

USE HIGH QUALITY TOOLS WHEN BUILDING (IE EAGLE HEX KEYS OR HUDY METRIC SIZE for jap kits) and you should be fine.

the kit is close to perfect.
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Old 04-22-2004, 06:59 AM   #3825
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