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Old 04-07-2004, 04:44 PM   #3196
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hey Beeb put some electrical tape to cover that bear metal.
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Old 04-07-2004, 04:50 PM   #3197
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sounds like HPI is the new HUDY/XRAY... no parts available.
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Old 04-07-2004, 05:15 PM   #3198
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Well I hope that they both are included in the diff kit because I have two kits coming in this week.

So far I am the only one in Wichita that has one and kinda hope it stays that way!
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Old 04-07-2004, 05:23 PM   #3199
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awol, it's somewhat understandable being a new car, and having one single part that is a high demand part.

I'm pretty sure my shop has almost all the other parts in stock, just not the gear set.

I think I had a pinion in my diff set. I just wasn't going to say anything because I wasn't sure.
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Old 04-07-2004, 05:59 PM   #3200
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re: gears

I have 2 Pro4's 1 is pretty new the other many months old. Each kit started of with the same placement for diff/output shaft shims. (as per Jap manual, i found the US front diff shim setup to be an issue)

Over time my 1st kit has required re-shimming. On two occasions i damaged rear pinion gears (diff gear did not get damaged). So i checked the mesh and found too much backlash to be present. I have now added more shims and moved the crown gear closer to the pinion gear, the reduces the chance of damage greatly. (just 1 additional kit shim was enough to sort this out).

Over time as the diff is adjusted / rebuilt etc varied shimming is required for optimal performance and gear life.
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Old 04-07-2004, 06:26 PM   #3201
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Man I got hosed then....I didnt get a pinion gear in my diff kit.....
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Old 04-07-2004, 06:36 PM   #3202
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...
Anyways, i drove my pro 4 outside

Where I CA'ed the knukle together came off and I lost the screw too now since it was outside...

My droop screws from hpi still hasn't showed up yet.
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Old 04-07-2004, 09:03 PM   #3203
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Default Building a Pro-4

Guys;

Well I got the Gear Boxes, Diff(s) and CVD's together so far.

I don't like using the spacers on the Wheel Hexes, so I used some spare Graphite Hexes from my Pro-3.

The Rear Diff went together nice and easy, chucked it up in my Drill press for a short break-in afterwards.

My kit came with a Lock Nut for the Diff. It is Silver and much smaller than any of the other Nuts so it's easy to recognize.

I did notice that the Thrust Bearing plates (A166) came in the bag with the larger size balls for the Diff. This might be confusing for someone who is less experienced building Cars.

Otherwise, so far so good.

Last edited by popsracer; 04-07-2004 at 09:08 PM.
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Old 04-07-2004, 09:41 PM   #3204
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well needless to say i decided to go for the pro4 over the cuda as spares backup is a doddle in the UK.

should arivve next week sometime, or maybe next (ordered US u see)

any tips on how to built it, like diffs (i will be running the one-way), shocks etc?
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Old 04-07-2004, 09:58 PM   #3205
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Quote:
Originally posted by raving-monkey
well needless to say i decided to go for the pro4 over the cuda as spares backup is a doddle in the UK.

should arivve next week sometime, or maybe next (ordered US u see)

any tips on how to built it, like diffs (i will be running the one-way), shocks etc?
stock up on associated diff springs and front gear sets if you can find any. A guy I race with is stripping them like a drunk sorority girl.

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Old 04-08-2004, 12:16 AM   #3206
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Quote:
Originally posted by blast
hey Beeb put some electrical tape to cover that bear metal.
I was thinking the same thing. Although it'll make my batts look like shite.

What about painting over it with acrylic paint? I could just use the clear "coating" liquid and it'd be covered but not black from tape. I don't see why it wouldn't work. ??
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Old 04-08-2004, 01:13 AM   #3207
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Default Re: Building a Pro-4

Quote:
Originally posted by popsracer
I don't like using the spacers on the Wheel Hexes, so I used some spare Graphite Hexes from my Pro-3.
Pops,

Don't forget, Tamiya's Clamping hexes work fine, and I've been using them for the last few races with no problems....SoCal had some blue ones if last I checked if you were interested.
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Old 04-08-2004, 01:14 AM   #3208
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Quote:
Originally posted by raving-monkey

any tips on how to built it, like diffs (i will be running the one-way), shocks etc?
For some general building tips, see my signature....
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Old 04-08-2004, 01:18 AM   #3209
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Quote:
Originally posted by Beeb
I was thinking the same thing. Although it'll make my batts look like shite.
Beeb! Single cell shrink! ...heh..

It won't change the appearance of the cell, but will cover the bare metal.
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Old 04-08-2004, 01:31 AM   #3210
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Default Re: Re: Building a Pro-4

Quote:
Originally posted by RCBuddha
Pops,

Don't forget, Tamiya's Clamping hexes work fine, and I've been using them for the last few races with no problems....SoCal had some blue ones if last I checked if you were interested.
I generally don't know my head from my arse, but I like the trick little Yokomo hexes...they have an "ultralight" one that holds the pin in with a little o-ring. REALLY trick and I'd swear it's lighter than the plastic ones. They usually have them at Ultimate or SoCal for 15 bucks or so for a whole set.

I think they may be the stock ones on the SD...even the pin is shorter.

(edit) found the number...ZS-011EL It is stock on the SD.

Last edited by Turbo Joe; 04-08-2004 at 01:45 AM.
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