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Old 03-30-2004, 08:26 PM   #2941
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"what are you guys doing to the steering knuckle? making them longer?"

Like Derek said, the arm coming off the knuckle is longer. The ones I made were like adding an extra hole with the same hole spacing as the stock ones. I found the car to steer well at low speed too, but I think my knuckles may heve been shorter than the ones Derek had. Basically you're getting the outside tire to have less of an angle, and the inside tire to have more angle.
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Old 03-30-2004, 08:42 PM   #2942
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Default my screw are hard to put in

i was talking to hpi i told them my screw are hard to put in they told me to get a 3mill tap i nver used one some plse explain what i need to do and also i got a screw stuck in the bulk head too
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Old 03-30-2004, 08:46 PM   #2943
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Default Re: my screw are hard to put in

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Originally posted by tc3 racer sc
i was talking to hpi i told them my screw are hard to put in they told me to get a 3mill tap i nver used one some plse explain what i need to do and also i got a screw stuck in the bulk head too
They told you to pre-thread the screw holes. Righty tighty, lefty loosey with the stuck screw. Use some elbow grease.
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Old 03-30-2004, 10:17 PM   #2944
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Well, I just got back from Trackside. I had the points lead wrapped up last week, but ended up extending it this week.

Just an idea until Team PRP finishes the gear brace: I put washers between the screw and the one way gear two races ago. I noticed that the screws were ended up leaving indents on the one-way gears, and the washers should help to spread the load from the screw to a wider area. I haven't roasted the one-way gear since then, so it may be to early to tell if it works, so far so good though.

TC3 - Please tell me you are using a quality tool set, and not the L-wrenches?!

Steve - on my first chassis, I used Losi thin tire glue. I ran a bead across the chassis, and smoothed it out with my finger. I don't really suggest this, but it works. After doing the whole chassis, I had a layer of glue thick enough on my finger that a few seconds under hot water, I was able to peal it off.

I used a thing called the "Microbrush" on the second chassis. Although I went through about 3-4 of the brushes, it was a little less messy on the fingers.

AJ's Raceway rocks as far as the surface and the barrier goes. I don't think it's possible to break ANYTHING on that track. It really is glass smooth, but I would suggest at least talking to the race director before you run. I don't know how they run the electric races, but when I went down there for nitro, I was told conflicting stories from the owner/race director on how qualifying is run. ( I asked if it was IFMAR, he said yes. Later, he told me it was a qualifying race, but your on your own clock. I asked if it was alright to start a little behind the guys to have a clean track with all the banging that was going on. He told me I better not, because it's a qualifying race. I asked again if it was IFMAR, and we were on our own clock, and he said yes. )
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Old 03-31-2004, 12:00 AM   #2945
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Default Re: Re: my screw are hard to put in

Quote:
Originally posted by AWOLsoldier
They told you to pre-thread the screw holes. Righty tighty, lefty loosey with the stuck screw. Use some elbow grease.
For graphite parts, use a tap first, a tap is something that makes threads for screws to go into. You can get a pritty good one thats not very expensive. About 10 bucks will get you a handle and a bit.
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Old 03-31-2004, 01:28 AM   #2946
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But tell them about your pinion gear Troy...That was odd...

Steve, if you use Jet on a Q-Tip it doesn't get as bad as Losi or Proline glue. My nose started burning from the fumes of the Losi gule as it smoked on the q-tip. That's how I did my new chassis tonight...
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Old 03-31-2004, 01:43 AM   #2947
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Driver Gary
But tell them about your pinion gear Troy...That was odd...
No kidding, I was going back and forth with Ron for second qual spot during that heat too...
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Old 03-31-2004, 06:39 AM   #2948
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Default rear diff coming loose

how was the rear diff coming loose issue fixed? would putting threadlock on the nut help?

thanks
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Old 03-31-2004, 09:59 AM   #2949
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hehehe oh god dont ask about the diffs !!!,

What I foud on my car was that i had normal m2 nuts included in the kit instead of nylon m2 nuts, to rectify yes put threadlocker on the nut and let it set over night. I then bought 2 diff kits and made sure that the nylon lock nut was is in there.

Have also spoken to other pro 4 owners who have found the diff ring hasnt been sitting true, also causing diff to loosen. Other things could include checking the number of thrust balls you have in the thrust race.

Make sure the inner plastic diff ring is glued in and sitting evenly in the diff.

The last thing to check is that when I thought the diff was loose, was too actually remove the diff and check by using allen keys through the outdrives and check to see if the gear moved.

By holding the spur gear+ wheel and turning the opposite wheel often the wheel turned but only because you apply more force through the diff, the diff itself was actually locked when removed and checked.

Did anyone else find anything extra??

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-31-2004, 11:08 AM   #2950
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Eric...

Your Web guys did a great job... I have one requested..
an interactive/modifiable pdf file for the set-up sheet.
Xray just released one for the Factory team car...and hope you guys can do one for the Pro4 as well....

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...82&kategoria=0
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Old 03-31-2004, 11:12 AM   #2951
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rc-zombies: I should have my Pro4 soon, so....

If they don't have one soon, I can make PDF setup sheet.

I have done it most all my cars.
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Old 03-31-2004, 11:14 AM   #2952
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tres
rc-zombies: I should have my Pro4 soon, so....

If they don't have one soon, I can make PDF setup sheet.

I have done it most all my cars.
Cool...
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Old 03-31-2004, 11:36 AM   #2953
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for those interested... SpeedTech R/C has complete (outdrives, balls, rings, hardware etc.. in one package) diff kits .......(just recieved mine yesterday) ... He may still have some in stock...
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Old 03-31-2004, 11:41 AM   #2954
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Default Pro4 Shock

I just bought the Pro4 about two weeks ago and was wondering if anyone has any tips on how to build to shocks so they all feel the same. I am using th 50 weight oil that came with the kit.

Thanks in advance
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Old 03-31-2004, 11:50 AM   #2955
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Default Re: Pro4 Shock

Quote:
Originally posted by StewartFan20
I just bought the Pro4 about two weeks ago and was wondering if anyone has any tips on how to build to shocks so they all feel the same. I am using th 50 weight oil that came with the kit.

Thanks in advance
Pretty much build per instructions... the shocks are self bleeding so majority of the time all the shock will feel the same. After you build do the rebound test...2 at a time...compress the shocks without any springs...and they should fully extend approx the same time....

50wt oil...if our running outdoors on asphalt you may want to drop it down to 40F / 30R depending on your track...
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