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Old 03-21-2004, 07:57 PM   #2581
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Not very many actually, about 15-20 springs depending on price.
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Old 03-21-2004, 09:40 PM   #2582
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Quote:
Originally posted by RandyB
pucho which hara set up are you refering to? you are running on asphault right? Just asking cause i think if I remeber correctly our set ups were close to the same when we were bith running xrays
good thing i kept my 80 dollars worth of xray springs
Randy:

It's the carpet set up. I am working now at RPM speedway so I will be getting lot's of wheel time there. I have been changing some things on it just tedting things out. I will post up a set up once I get closer to the fast guys but it's a good starting point. I hope to get some of the toe blocks and 3mm chassis soon so I can beter gauge against some of the Losi's, xray's and tc3's at the track. I also need to try and Alfa body that seems to be the fast body at our place. Ill get some asphalt time also but not as much as before. I need to build my second car but Im waiting to get the 3mm chassis to build it.

Luis
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Old 03-21-2004, 09:45 PM   #2583
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So what springs is everyone running on the Pro4?
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Old 03-21-2004, 11:18 PM   #2584
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Quote:
Originally posted by CraigH
So what springs is everyone running on the Pro4?
Do you mean in our setups or what manufacturer's springs are we running?

People have been using:
AE
Rayspeed
HPI
Trinity

I've been using the stock springs that come with the kit. They've worked pretty well so far....

Last edited by RCBuddha; 03-21-2004 at 11:29 PM.
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Old 03-22-2004, 01:13 AM   #2585
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Quote:
Originally posted by CraigH
So what springs is everyone running on the Pro4?
Im using X-ray springs.
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Old 03-22-2004, 01:20 AM   #2586
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I run associated springs...
standard ones are too soft for carpet.
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Old 03-22-2004, 02:07 AM   #2587
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Troy - if you want to lose some weight and still keep it balanced you can move a 5g piece further to the right on the motor side, or add a clip on heatsink if you don't have one already. It's the old fulcrum principle (seesaw) - the further way from the point of balance the more effect the weight has.

Ran my car on a loose carpet track Friday, traction was similar to untreated asphalt. Front and rear diffs because of the low traction, plus plenty of brakes going into the corners. I don't have all my tools yet but whatever setup I was running seemed to work well for me. The front end had a lot of grip coming out of the turns, plenty of rear grip (no tail wagging) and no torque steer punching it out of corners. 10T motor but wide lanes and soft barriers (firehose) so no really "testing" of the bevel gears. A couple of the guys tried making spools from one-way diffs (using epoxy/resin to lock the bearings) but with the low traction that wasn't the best setup at all.

Erik - ask JJ about the picture I sent him
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Old 03-22-2004, 09:27 AM   #2588
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Is there any place I got order the bevel gear set, HPI #73501, online? Someplace that actually has them in.
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Old 03-22-2004, 09:32 AM   #2589
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Search on the usual places - Tower, Horizon, etc. There are smaller US companies that may have them: Stormer, Bruckner, ehobbies, and plenty of others. The Asian companies may have them also: Rainbow Ten and others.
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Old 03-22-2004, 09:54 AM   #2590
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I don't want people to list all the online hobby shoppes they can think of, I would just like someone to tell me if they know of a shop that has them in. With how easily they break I would have to assume this is a common question. I did see that Rainbow Ten lists it in there inventory, but i would kinda like to order domestically, or at least from someplace with a web based ording system.
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Old 03-22-2004, 10:05 AM   #2591
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Frank, Erik or Thad.
After a slight impact the rear upper ball stud on the battery side snapped.
This is on the hub carrier.
With no spare part # 73507 available, I installed the ball studs to the inner positions, and adjusted the links for 1% neg. rear camber.
It was not fun driving.
Without spare #73507's and using the inner position, any tips on set-up for high bite asphalt.
I should have a few spare diifs today or tomorrow. I'll have one locked down by Wednesday for the front.
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Old 03-22-2004, 10:08 AM   #2592
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Quote:
Originally posted by coastaltony
Frank, Erik or Thad.
After a slight impact the rear upper ball stud on the battery side snapped.
This is on the hub carrier.
With no spare part # 73507 available, I installed the ball studs to the inner positions, and adjusted the links for 1% neg. rear camber.
It was not fun driving.
Without spare #73507's and using the inner position, any tips on set-up for high bite asphalt.
I should have a few spare diifs today or tomorrow. I'll have one locked down by Wednesday for the front.
Tower has those hubs in stock!
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGNU9&P=7
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Old 03-22-2004, 10:29 AM   #2593
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Thanks Z
Has anyone broken anything else?
Figuring while I'm paying for shipping, I might as well check.
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Old 03-22-2004, 10:35 AM   #2594
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Haven't heard of anyone breaking the arms yet...but you never know...I have a spare just in case... MIP bones too...
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Old 03-22-2004, 10:44 AM   #2595
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Quote:
Originally posted by coastaltony
Frank, Erik or Thad.
After a slight impact the rear upper ball stud on the battery side snapped.
This is on the hub carrier.
With no spare part # 73507 available, I installed the ball studs to the inner positions, and adjusted the links for 1% neg. rear camber.
It was not fun driving.
Without spare #73507's and using the inner position, any tips on set-up for high bite asphalt.
I should have a few spare diifs today or tomorrow. I'll have one locked down by Wednesday for the front.
to compensate for having to move the ball stud on the hub (and to gian traction in general) you could remove one of the spacers from under the inner camber link position (ball stud on bulkhead)

the instructions show only one spacer under the rear inner camber link position, and two under the fronts..... the above suggestion would require you to swap the one in the rears to the front, and using only half of the fronts spacers in the rear... get it??...

hope this helps..
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