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Old 03-19-2004, 09:38 AM   #2521
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while in the subject... what parts should i get?

aluminum knuckles, steering bellcranks, servo mounts, tobee input outdrives (i thought speedtech had them but they aren't there anymore), I will also need extra cvd bones (are tobee ones the same? MIP ones are $$$ compared to tobee)

I think that would cover the exterior of the pro4...

I don't see the need to anodize the oneway or that prp plate that is coming out.

i would have to polish the titanium turnbuckes...


O, should i get those hotbodies bumper standoff anodized?
What about body posts? should i also get some pivote blocks?
I don't know if i should, but should i also get the front c hub and the rear hub carrier too? i just don't want to buy it, get them done in green and bend them...
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Old 03-19-2004, 09:58 AM   #2522
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Quote:
Originally posted by Super Steve
while in the subject... what parts should i get?

aluminum knuckles, steering bellcranks, servo mounts, tobee input outdrives (i thought speedtech had them but they aren't there anymore), I will also need extra cvd bones (are tobee ones the same? MIP ones are $$$ compared to tobee)

I think that would cover the exterior of the pro4...

I don't see the need to anodize the oneway or that prp plate that is coming out.

i would have to polish the titanium turnbuckes...


O, should i get those hotbodies bumper standoff anodized?
What about body posts? should i also get some pivote blocks?
I don't know if i should, but should i also get the front c hub and the rear hub carrier too? i just don't want to buy it, get them done in green and bend them...
if you're going to re-color...get all the aluminum parts you can afford...get it all done at one time..this will save you alot of time and money in the long run... the Tobbee bones are identical to the MIPS..... when I had my Pro3 recolored it cost me like $60.00 for almost 2 cars...Pro3 and 12th scale.
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Old 03-19-2004, 09:59 AM   #2523
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What's recommended gearing for a Chameleon 19T on a pretty wide open track with a 150-200' straight? With stock spur.

thanks.
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Old 03-19-2004, 10:03 AM   #2524
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Quote:
Originally posted by racingdc9
What's recommended gearing for a Chameleon 19T on a pretty wide open track with a 150-200' straight? With stock spur.

thanks.
According to the Pro4 tuning guide around 6.2~6.3
I'll try it out this weekend.
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Old 03-19-2004, 10:08 AM   #2525
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Quote:
Originally posted by Super Steve
while in the subject... what parts should i get?

aluminum knuckles, steering bellcranks, servo mounts, tobee input outdrives (i thought speedtech had them but they aren't there anymore), I will also need extra cvd bones (are tobee ones the same? MIP ones are $$$ compared to tobee)

I think that would cover the exterior of the pro4...

I don't see the need to anodize the oneway or that prp plate that is coming out.

i would have to polish the titanium turnbuckes...


O, should i get those hotbodies bumper standoff anodized?
What about body posts? should i also get some pivote blocks?
I don't know if i should, but should i also get the front c hub and the rear hub carrier too? i just don't want to buy it, get them done in green and bend them...
personally, i would just stick with the plastic parts... alloy bits look cool (the PRO4 has plenty of purple already) but add weight, and are costly to replace...

haven't driven mine yet, but strongly believe this thing will take a beating... truly an impressive platform..

just get an extra set of front hubs and carriers... and maybe a couple ring and bevel gears.. well, that's what i would do...

Yo HPI!.... this thing is NICE!!!...
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Old 03-19-2004, 10:12 AM   #2526
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the shop up here in canada will charge 70 buckscad... (around 50usd)
but i don't know if i really want to do it anymore...

The reason being that what if i break a green part that i don't have spare for!

But i am gonna think about it...

what do you think a bad driver will break?

I can only think about CVD bones aluminum wise...
becase breaking aluminum knuckle was impossible for me.

o, maybe aluminum body posts... are they easy to bend/ break?
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Old 03-19-2004, 10:36 AM   #2527
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Quote:
Originally posted by Super Steve
the shop up here in canada will charge 70 buckscad... (around 50usd)
but i don't know if i really want to do it anymore...

The reason being that what if i break a green part that i don't have spare for!

But i am gonna think about it...

what do you think a bad driver will break?

I can only think about CVD bones aluminum wise...
becase breaking aluminum knuckle was impossible for me.

o, maybe aluminum body posts... are they easy to bend/ break?
the bones will break first on a hard hit...all other parts should survive...even the aluminum body post. if a part gets scratched and silver starts to show...go to your local art store and find a matching permanent designer marker...
I've seen aluminum C-hubs bend...but they can be bent back...
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Old 03-19-2004, 11:13 AM   #2528
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oic..
it looks like you have front body posts?
where did you get them and are they available for rear?

how are tobee aluminum drive cups... show any slight wear yet?
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Old 03-19-2004, 11:20 AM   #2529
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Quote:
Originally posted by Super Steve
oic..
it looks like you have front body posts?
where did you get them and are they available for rear?

how are tobee aluminum drive cups... show any slight wear yet?
front body post are from Hotbodies...55mm on ebay. I might have an extra set if you want to buy it...
Tobee has the rears coming out soon.
I just installed the Tobee drive cups...so I don't know how durable they will be.... will probably put back the stock ones.. I have the Square version coming soon... want to buy the Tobee cups from me too...
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Old 03-19-2004, 12:58 PM   #2530
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um... maybe
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Old 03-19-2004, 01:00 PM   #2531
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hey anyone hear where I can get ahold of the following
front a arms ?
from str block ?
front diff - kt hobbies
ceramic bearing speed tech
tobee mid shaft ?

let me know
and has anyone heard when the degree blocks will be avail?
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Old 03-19-2004, 01:02 PM   #2532
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Oh just remebered when can we expect a new spring kit.

what is everyone using for springs now ae are the right size?
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Old 03-19-2004, 01:07 PM   #2533
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i read that ae fits perfectly but is alittle shorter. However, they said it works perfectly.

tower hobbies have front diff in stock right now along with more pro 4 stock parts.
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Old 03-19-2004, 01:30 PM   #2534
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
will you be including the 2mmx10 countersink screws? hope so...they're hard to fine...
Yes, M2 flat head screws would be included.

My post may be in violation of the site rules since it is like an advertising post, even though I was just asking if there is interest in this part. But it kind of turned into an order list!?! I didn't expect that. I won't post any more of our parts until I become a registered advertiser. Please stay on the lookout for our stuff though. I have a passion for this stuff and I think our parts are going to make a very good impression on fellow racers.

Thanks again, guys!
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Old 03-19-2004, 04:37 PM   #2535
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Without having to go back through all of this what is the proper way to treat the gears?

Thanks,
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