Originally posted by dreambrother
I wasn't using the blocks when I was tightening the screws (upper deck). When I tightened the upper deck, i put it on the board itself. I noticed on Erik's method that he tightened the screws first in the front, then in the rear. Would this be a good method to use for the chassis screws?
Actually, if you look at his suggested method, he starts in the back, moves to the front, to the rear again, and then back to the front.
As for the lower chassis, just follow the 1,2,3,4 pattern i've previously posted, ensuring that you turn them in order, till they tighten completely.
Too bad your in Northern Cali, I'd be happy to help ya in person. i think zombies offered his help, you should take him up on it.....
I'm blown away on the performance of the chassis, the fit/finish and the growing support for the car. I've driven virtually all the current shaft cars available, and the Pro 4 seems to take less effort to setup, and is very light and quick.
No upgrades really needed, the car really doesn't need them. I plan to add titanium screws and some tobee aluminum input shafts, to lighten the car even more....since I have no weight limits at my club track.....
Also a nice set of ceramics should make my car smooth, fast and super light....