Downforce

The Losi hubs. Are they pretty much a direct fit? Hinge pins and bearings?

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

robk...your pro4 looked really good at the Hurricane Stock Challenge...i may have to pick one up after the summer and steal your set-ups :P

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

Super Steve,

I ran my car almost bone stock, I made very suttle changes to dial it in.

Try White Lightning on the gears, just don't go overboard or it'll drip into your diff.

Buddha

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

I've been sent a couple of emails asking me to share some building tips, so if you didn't get my email, (and if anyone is interested) here it is for everyone to share:


Hello,

As far as building tips are concerned:

1. Take your time! I can't stress how much better the car will turn out when your done.

2. Use a 3mm and 4mm (4mm for the droop screws) taps using a tap handle. This adds time to your build, but it makes the screws go in A LOT easier than not using it. Use a little grease when "tapping" the holes, it will help keep the parts from heating up and possibly deforming slightly.

UPDATE: When threading the turnbuckles into the ball cups, be sure to use some chapstick or similar wax. This will help the turnbuckles go into the ball cups with greater ease.

3. When assembling the front and rear gear boxes, play around with the shims till you get it smooth. I was able to spin the drive gear and diff gears with ease, after playing around with the shims. Once you find a nice spot, see if you can make the mesh just "one shim" tighter. This will help prevent breakage. Also, watch how tight you tighten down the screws, you only need to keep them "snug" not cranked down.

UPDATE: When Building the Differential, be sure to take your time and not overtighten the diff screw. Ensure that the inner ring is ca'd in (take your time!!). Assemble the diff, and as you tighten the screw, work the diff, and so till it becomes nice and tight. After breaking in the diff by running it at moderate speeds, be sure to disassemble and re-lube. I've found that the diff needs to be run on the tighter side.

4. That reminds me: don't forget to BOIL your gears, not literally, of course. Boil water, let it sit for two minutes, then transfer into a large pyrex glass bowl. drop gears in and let cool naturally. I did this in the morning, and by the time I got home after work, they were ready to go. make sure you dry them well. Also check for any warping or deformaties.

UPDATE: I recommend the use of White lightning or similar product, I feel the gears can benefit from some sort of lube. Even the silver grease will work that comes with the kit.

UPDATE: In regards to gear stripping: Get yourself the PRP Gear brace http://www.teamprpracing.com/ which will help save your gears from getting stripped by supporting the gear. I'd also recommend their "Tru Spin" spur gear brace, which will help keep your spur spinning nice and true.

5. With every component you start putting onto the lower chassis, make sure you screw them in a "cross" pattern:

1 - 4

3 - 2

before screwing the top deck, be sure to place the chassis on a flat and smooth surface. Then tighten using Erik Shauver's recommended method:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&pagenumber=55

scroll down to his post and click on his link...it'll tell you the order in which to tighten the top deck down.

or try:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...&postid=731036

UPDATE: I've actually found that you need to include the outer screws that tighten down the gearbox. Just remember to tighten them in the above cross pattern.

6. Seal the edge of the lower chassis, upperdeck and shock towers

7. File/seal the battery slots like the directions say

UPDATE: If your going to be using strapping tape to hold your batteries in, be sure to file the small slots where the tape passes.

8. you DO NOT have to de-shield the bearings, they are smooth already, and free up once you start running the car. Just be sure to keep them clean and well oiled.

Good luck,

Buddha

Downforce

Eric-Who do we have to know to get the 0-2 degree rear toe pivot blocks before the Nats?

Frank McKinney

I would guess...Erik

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

I haven't had a chance to get some...but some here mentioned that the EVO3 blocks were a direct fit...

dreambrother

Well, I re-tightened all of my screws, and I had to use a slight variation on Erik's tightening method to get my chassis as flat as I could. There was still a tiny tiny bit of uneveness. Unfortunately I took off the front bumper so it was easier to read my ride height gauge, then the car became uneven again I should of written down the patter I used to tighten the screws I never knew how much care was needed to get a good setup.

Steve Weiss

REALLY Disappointed that Thad isn't on here more....

*sigh*

Super Steve

iTrader: (9)

i just read through the whole thread....
5 hours of reading...

P.S. I got HS645MG and PDS 2143FET servo for trade for S9550

Downforce

They will fit in the F/R block position, but they sit higher. Like you have 3+mm of spacers under the HPI ones. Way to high for what I'm doing.

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

Make sure you measure your ride height like in this link:

http://www.teamlosi.com/xxxs_page/xxxs_height.htm

Notice where they set the ride height guage to measure ride height.

As far as your chassis being "uneven" was it uneven on the tweak station? Or was it uneven laying on a flat surface? If it was uneven on the tweak station, that is normal. My car only needed a little shock collar adjustment to get the bubble perfectly centered. Some pics of your chassis being "uneven" may help....

Also, I've had to this kind of procedure on ALL my double deck cars, its the only way to get them to be flat. I've seen countless # of people have major "tweak" issues with their SD's, and after I flatened it for them, their car was fine.

dreambrother

Actually, I placed it on the riser blocks that came with the Hudy Set-Up board. I also made sure that the blocks were placed so that they didn't hit any screws. So when I placed it on the two blocks, the chassis would rock a little bit on one side. I first loosened the screws on the chassis, and everything was fine. It's just figuring out what order to tighten (sometimes the cross method didn't work).

I'll have to retighten the screws again since I took off the bumper, because it's rocking just a little bit again. I'll also have to redo my shocks, becuase I set my rear height, and the collars were even, but when I set my front, one collar was higher than the other by about 1mm. Should I have to rebuild the shocks, or is this 1mm difference negligable? Also, if I were to set the height equal front and back, would the shock collars all be the same height? As it is now, the collars are threaded lower in the rear than in the front.

Thanks for all the help.

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

The riser blocks for setting droop? Or the camber/toe in guages?

Did it rock AFTER you tightened the upperdeck as per the link I posted previously? The "cross" method is meant for attaching the gear boxes/inner hinge mounts/motor mount. Tighten the upperdeck like this:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachm...p;postid=731036

Make sure your shocks are pressurized the same, and when setting your ride height, one collar will be a little further down, depending on which side of your car is heavier. They won't be the same front to back. Just make sure you have the same ride height right to left and front to rear.

Buddha

dreambrother

Yeah, the riser blocks for setting droop. I figured these were flat and a good way to check for tweak. Should I just lay it on the board itself? I used the cross method to tighten the chassis, and Erik's method for the upper deck. I had to modify Erik's method a little bit, because the chassis would warp.