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Old 03-07-2004, 12:05 AM   #2086
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
Bigdog..

I'm working on retrofitting the 'Cuda beveled gears into the car..since they both share Identical drive ratios...39t gear. The Cuda gear is alot beefier... I hope HPI will revised the gears soon. Another I considered doing it putting the EVo3 graphite diff plate on...but it's drilled for 4 holes not 3.... I guess I'll redrill some new holes...and find some longer screws to make it work...

keep ya posted.
Tell me it ain't so....Pro4 suffering the same problem with the one-way gear as the Evo3?
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Old 03-07-2004, 05:52 AM   #2087
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Question is everyone putting the amount of shims stated in the instructions onto the oneway or are you checking the gear mesh just like you do a spur gear .
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Old 03-07-2004, 09:07 AM   #2088
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Yes I have checked the lash on the gears,and yes the Pro4 seems to be suffering the same fate as the evoIII.. You can allways run a diff up front and you wont break any gears.
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Old 03-07-2004, 09:23 AM   #2089
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tell you what i will do you a swap with my diffs, have had no breakages at all with the diffs or any other part but the diffs keep coming loose, any more ideas on the subject?? correct amount of thrust balls, inner plastic bearing glued in.??? help...
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Old 03-07-2004, 09:28 AM   #2090
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Default Re: diffs

Quote:
Originally posted by chr15tophe
tell you what i will do you a swap with my diffs, have had no breakages at all with the diffs or any other part but the diffs keep coming loose, any more ideas on the subject?? correct amount of thrust balls, inner plastic bearing glued in.??? help...
You probably could build it backwards, meaning flipping the screw and maybe the thrust bearing to the other side and use the nut holder on the opposite side. Maybe the direction that the diff operates is causing it to loosen. But that is typically a trait of molded diff housings, happens in the TC3 as well and usually only in the rear, however on a TC3 you can't flip the screw because it has the nut molded into one side so maybe that will help.
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Old 03-07-2004, 09:44 AM   #2091
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Quote:
Originally posted by xxxkat
Yes I have checked the lash on the gears,and yes the Pro4 seems to be suffering the same fate as the evoIII.. You can allways run a diff up front and you wont break any gears.

I guess the designer that did the EVO..then went to HPI...didn't correct or redigned the beveled gears...

good thing I have a new diff arriving next week....
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Old 03-07-2004, 09:49 AM   #2092
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Could somone tell about pinions for the PRO4? Can I use a standard 64 pitch pinion like a Losi?Do I need different pinions?If so where can I get 'em..
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Old 03-07-2004, 09:58 AM   #2093
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Looking at my Pro 4 versus my Evo here's what I noticed:
They handle very close to each other
The people who blamed the gear problem on the Evo 3 on a 1
piece shaft were just wrong.

I ran both cars yesterday, toasted a set of gears in each. It was the tightest track I have ever raced on, and I caught the elbow on some PVC with each car right on the right front wheel. After that there was a grinding noise coming from the front gearbox. I finished with the Evo just because I had replacement gears with me. But that problem will be solved in a week or so when the distributors get the parts to the shops. It's a really good car out of the box. They've done a good job with the overall design.

Southern, yes 64 pitch pinions fit.
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Old 03-07-2004, 10:11 AM   #2094
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thanks!
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Old 03-07-2004, 11:39 AM   #2095
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Hi Guys,

Just in case some of you haven't noticed, we have some new Tobee Craft hop-ups for the Pro4

We're also working on a Ceramic Bearings set for the Pro4

Steve Wang
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Old 03-07-2004, 03:50 PM   #2096
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Driver Gary
Looking at my Pro 4 versus my Evo here's what I noticed:
They handle very close to each other
The people who blamed the gear problem on the Evo 3 on a 1
piece shaft were just wrong.

I ran both cars yesterday, toasted a set of gears in each. It was the tightest track I have ever raced on, and I caught the elbow on some PVC with each car right on the right front wheel. After that there was a grinding noise coming from the front gearbox. I finished with the Evo just because I had replacement gears with me. But that problem will be solved in a week or so when the distributors get the parts to the shops. It's a really good car out of the box. They've done a good job with the overall design.

Southern, yes 64 pitch pinions fit.

Just a question : did you put ahy grease on your gears ?
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Old 03-07-2004, 04:25 PM   #2097
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Default Re: diffs and gears

Quote:
Originally posted by chr15tophe
tell you what i will do you a swap with my diffs, have had no breakages at all with the diffs or any other part but the diffs keep coming loose, any more ideas on the subject?? correct amount of thrust balls, inner plastic bearing glued in.??? help...
Christophe,

I had the same problem with both my Yokomo and Associated molded diffs. My only conclusion was that it had to be the fact that the molded diffs had their springs on the thrust bearing side, and not the nut side. For some reason, this design doesn't allow for looser diff settings, you have to keep your diffs tight. In fact, Associated tells you to crank down the diff, and back off a 1/2 turn. I mean, I've NEVER had any problesms with the steel/aluminum diffs on my TC3, which had the spring on the nut side.
I'll see if you can move the spring to the other side tonight, and let everyone know the results.

Gears:
It sucks to hear that people are stripping gears. I would suggest spacing the gears one shim tighter, that could help. Perhaps Erik can offer some help?


Buddha

Last edited by RCBuddha; 03-07-2004 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 03-07-2004, 04:26 PM   #2098
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedTech
Hi Guys,

Just in case some of you haven't noticed, we have some new Tobee Craft hop-ups for the Pro4

We're also working on a Ceramic Bearings set for the Pro4

Steve Wang
Steve,

I've got a growing shopping list of parts I need to get from you, let us know when you get the ceramic bearings in....

Buddha

Last edited by RCBuddha; 03-07-2004 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 03-07-2004, 06:00 PM   #2099
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...

Last edited by Erik Shauver; 09-11-2006 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 03-07-2004, 06:21 PM   #2100
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Quote:
Originally posted by Erik Shauver
For the rest: make sure you are checking your bevel gear backlash with the top of the gearbox on, with all 4 securing screws installed. Checking or setting the backlash with only the bottom half will not be a true indication of the backlash as when the top is on... just a thought.

-E
I had that problem with my second kit and the rear diff. It felt as if it was binding, without all 4 screws in the top so i removed a shim. It was way loose once I put the screws in, so I had to go back and put the shim in.


Erik, Did you get my e-mail? I just wanted to make sure my memory was accurate after I accidently wiped out all my previously read mail.
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