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Old 03-05-2004, 10:24 AM   #2056
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Quote:
Originally posted by ottoman
I was thining of getting a Pro 4 as my second car but after reading about the diff gears breaking I am no so sure. I sold my Evo III because of the same problem.
I do have a question about rear toe... if I read correctly the kit comes with 3 degree rear toe. That is way too much for foam racing... I run zero to 1/2 degree in stock. Is HPI selling rear toe bars to get to toe to this range?
Once you do the water trick with the gears they're fine. I run the 3 degrees of rear toe in mine and pull equal or faster lap times than others at the track with 1/2-1 degree of rear toe. The 3 degrees of rear toe makes it SO stable and easy to drive.
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Old 03-05-2004, 07:00 PM   #2057
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I did the water trick and mine broke..
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Old 03-05-2004, 08:55 PM   #2058
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Default DIff Gears breaking

i've read about fellow pro 4 owners having diff gears broken up. me and my friend both have pro 4s, since christmas. his also suffered front broken diff gears, due to the 3 small screws attached to the 1 way unit loosening over time and causing the broken gears, despite applying threadlock. my car hasn't seen much track time though, probably about 6 packs, the gears hold up fine till now, but i also noticed the 3 small screws loosened up a bit. perhaps this is what caused the gears to break initially?
btw, all our gears were not bathed at all.
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Old 03-05-2004, 09:05 PM   #2059
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Default Re: DIff Gears breaking

Quote:
Originally posted by alana07
i've read about fellow pro 4 owners having diff gears broken up. me and my friend both have pro 4s, since christmas. his also suffered front broken diff gears, due to the 3 small screws attached to the 1 way unit loosening over time and causing the broken gears, despite applying threadlock. my car hasn't seen much track time though, probably about 6 packs, the gears hold up fine till now, but i also noticed the 3 small screws loosened up a bit. perhaps this is what caused the gears to break initially?
btw, all our gears were not bathed at all.
I've got ten practice runs on mine...still goin' I may have to open her up and take a closer look at the diff screws... if it does come loose..I may have to find a longer screw and use a lock nut on the other side....
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Old 03-05-2004, 09:12 PM   #2060
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Can anyone who owns a PRO 4 and has previously drove a TC3, tell me what makes the PRO 4 better than a TC3? Don't tell me the obvious (like chassis, motor mount, ease of maintenance, bling factor and etc.). What would you tell someone to really convince them why buy a PRO 4 as apposed to a TC3?
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Old 03-05-2004, 09:18 PM   #2061
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I can't, but I have a former team drivers FTTC3 for sale. It is loaded, and has lots of spare parts, new and used. This car is in perfect condition
I am getting three Pro 4's to put together for myself, and my sons.
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Old 03-05-2004, 09:28 PM   #2062
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Quote:
Originally posted by xxxkat
I did the water trick and mine broke..

Just depends on the impact, sometimes it just takes a lite hit to strip those gears and sometimes super hard hits. Bath only helps them be a little less prone to stripping. I 've seen it go both ways on TC3's and EVOIII's.
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Old 03-05-2004, 09:28 PM   #2063
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Quote:
Originally posted by Downforce
Once you do the water trick with the gears they're fine. I run the 3 degrees of rear toe in mine and pull equal or faster lap times than others at the track with 1/2-1 degree of rear toe. The 3 degrees of rear toe makes it SO stable and easy to drive.
I am glad you like 3 degrees rear toe... I have never found that much rear toe is needed... every (stock foam) car I removed rear toe from went faster... I do like some with mods but not stock. I also like my cars on the edge and not easy to drive
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Old 03-05-2004, 09:33 PM   #2064
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otto, on the edge is it. Drive it!
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Old 03-05-2004, 09:55 PM   #2065
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Quote:
Originally posted by 429racer
Can anyone who owns a PRO 4 and has previously drove a TC3, tell me what makes the PRO 4 better than a TC3? Don't tell me the obvious (like chassis, motor mount, ease of maintenance, bling factor and etc.). What would you tell someone to really convince them why buy a PRO 4 as apposed to a TC3?
There is a big difference. Actually stick with the TC3. (hahah...less competition for me). Seriously though, I've raced with the TC3, XXXS and the Pro4. Basically, the Pro4 has the smooth steering of the losi with the punch of the TC3. The Pro4 rotates very well like the Losi, unlike the TC3 where you have to kick out the rear. With the Pro4, it is easy to drive like the Losi, but unlike the Losi, I feel it is a litttle faster because of the shaft. I liked the TC3 alot, but I felt that when running mod and even 19T on less than optimal traction, it was too hard to control, mainly because of the inherent tweak (due to unbalanced weight distribution) and torque steer. Torque steer was fixed by some by milling the chassis to allow the batteries to sit closer to the chassis' midline.
The XXXS was easy to drive, whereas the TC3 was like a black stallion. The TC3 was not as forgiving as the XXXS. You always had to drive on the "EDGE" with the TC3. The Pro4 is a perfect blend of both cars. No torque steer whatsover, components are placed very centrally (so close that if I took the right hit on the batt side, it would move just enough to allow the cells to short by making contact with the shaft. Even the servo is as close to the shaft as possible. The other plus is the shocks. I've always been a fan of HPI Shocks....very very smooth and easy to build. The TC3 shocks were good but not as easy to build because of having to bleed them. Losi...hmmm...sucks. HPI shocks automatically bleed when you tighten down the cap making matching shocks very easy.
Out of the box, the Pro4 has it all. I don't believe you really need any hopup parts to make it work. Shims and pivot blocks is all that you need after the purchase, and of course the springs.
My only GRIPE is installing the motor. Its not bad if you have time to do it, but when you run two classes and your heats are only 2-3 races apart, strapping in a battery, and changing out the motor can be too time consuming.

AS for hopups...the only thing that I'm getting are some shims for both the pivot blocks and camber links, and the graphite shaft, and maybe a titanium screw set for weight savings. (probably don't even need to worry about weight since the weight is way under roar limit already). Hope that helps.

I'm currently trying to sell both my TC3 and XXXS.

Jeff
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Old 03-05-2004, 10:02 PM   #2066
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Agreed on the shims. Thats the only thing I plan on picking up for the car as soon as the shop gets them in.

You definately don't "need" TI screws. I had to add a lot of lead to the car to make wieght during the USTC.

They also have AL input shafts that I may be interested in later on to lighten the rotating mass of the car ( lightening the heaviest rotating part ). I don't think any of this is at all nessisary though.
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Old 03-05-2004, 10:27 PM   #2067
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if anyone needs a pro 4 we have them at bbhobbies.com at the price of $319.99
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Old 03-05-2004, 10:30 PM   #2068
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There is a heat-sink motor mount coming too. Besides springs, swaybars, and toe-blocks, thats the only hop up I'm going to snag
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Old 03-05-2004, 10:53 PM   #2069
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Driver Gary
There is a heat-sink motor mount coming too. Besides springs, swaybars, and toe-blocks, thats the only hop up I'm going to snag
A clip motor heatsink may dissapate heat better than the heat-sink motor mount...and less than half the cost.... Integy/Eagle racing has one in Purple.
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Old 03-05-2004, 11:53 PM   #2070
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Default I need 3mm chassis, get on your CNC and help me please!

Been trying to ask privately but I am not getting anywhere and I am getting desperate.

Can anyone make me a 3mm Pro4 chassis in 14 days, I don't need it milled anywhere, and a thicker top deck?
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