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Old 02-27-2004, 04:27 PM   #1891
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Originally posted by TSR6
Working on the Pro4 is pretty easy once the screw holes get worked in a little bit. The first couple times of removing the upper deck can be a chore thanks to the stiff composites. Now that I've put the screws in and out several times, It's not so bad.
I'm surprised that many of you are not pre-threading or "tapping" your parts with a 3mm tap! I know it takes a lot longer to build the car, but man, it made it a heck of alot easier to build for me!

If you decide to use a tap handle and tap, most of the screws are 3mm, but make sure to use a 4mm tap for the droop screws. Also, be sure to use a little of the dark grey grease when tapping the parts, this will help keep it cool.

Another tip: Use some chapstick on the turnbuckle threads; it'll make it easier to thread them into the cups.
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Old 02-27-2004, 04:54 PM   #1892
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Originally posted by RCBuddha
I'm surprised that many of you are not pre-threading or "tapping" your parts with a 3mm tap! I know it takes a lot longer to build the car, but man, it made it a heck of alot easier to build for me!

If you decide to use a tap handle and tap, most of the screws are 3mm, but make sure to use a 4mm tap for the droop screws. Also, be sure to use a little of the dark grey grease when tapping the parts, this will help keep it cool.

Another tip: Use some chapstick on the turnbuckle threads; it'll make it easier to thread them into the cups.
I used a power screwdrive with a 2mm hex bit.... hand tighten when it gets to the screw head... this is easier on your hands and wrist.
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Old 02-27-2004, 04:58 PM   #1893
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I used a power screwdrive with a 2mm hex bit.... hand tighten when it gets to the screw head... this is easier on your hands and wrist.
Or you could do that....
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Old 02-27-2004, 05:00 PM   #1894
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Originally posted by RCBuddha
Or you could do that....
Faster...you only do it once...and like RCBuddha said...make sure you grease your threads aswell...
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Old 02-27-2004, 05:07 PM   #1895
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Oh man!!! Thanks to you buddha and zombie. After that all pain in my hands you told that how to make it easier, after those many tight scruws...

3x Auts

I`m almoust finished my Pro4

No pain no game
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Old 02-27-2004, 09:34 PM   #1896
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Russ-ygm.
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Old 02-27-2004, 09:36 PM   #1897
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Originally posted by Trinity2
Oh man!!! Thanks to you buddha and zombie. After that all pain in my hands you told that how to make it easier, after those many tight scruws...

3x Auts

I`m almoust finished my Pro4

No pain no game
no, no pain no gain!
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Old 02-27-2004, 09:38 PM   #1898
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Thats the way I see it, no pain, no gain.

I've always been against power drills, just because it makes it so much easier to strip a screw's threads or the screw head. I guess it's fine if you've built cars like that before, and if you take your time, but it never something I would suggest to a new guy.
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Old 02-27-2004, 09:44 PM   #1899
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Quote:
Originally posted by TSR6
Thats the way I see it, no pain, no gain.

I've always been against power drills, just because it makes it so much easier to strip a screw's threads or the screw head. I guess it's fine if you've built cars like that before, and if you take your time, but it never something I would suggest to a new guy.
with the graphite parts...the chance of stripping the threads is less compared to the usual plastic parts... I use a variable speed driver at it's slowest speed.... and next to the lowest torque setting... with normal plastics parts..it's all elbow grease...
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Old 02-27-2004, 09:54 PM   #1900
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
with the graphite parts...the chance of stripping the threads is less compared to the usual plastic parts... I use a variable speed driver at it's slowest speed.... and next to the lowest torque setting... with normal plastics parts..it's all elbow grease...
Yeah, I'm just saying it's not something I generally recommend.

I used to use one on my Pro2 & RS4 Racer2 without any problems, but I wouldn't tell someone here, or walking out of the hobbyshop to use one unless they know exactly what they are doing, which I'm sure you did.

From my time working in a hobby shop, I've seen quite a few kids using dad's electric screwdriver and stripping the heads, the threads, or the plastic.
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Old 02-28-2004, 02:04 AM   #1901
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Quote:
Originally posted by TSR6
Yeah, I'm just saying it's not something I generally recommend.

I used to use one on my Pro2 & RS4 Racer2 without any problems, but I wouldn't tell someone here, or walking out of the hobbyshop to use one unless they know exactly what they are doing, which I'm sure you did.

From my time working in a hobby shop, I've seen quite a few kids using dad's electric screwdriver and stripping the heads, the threads, or the plastic.
That's why I recommend using a tap handle and thread tap. You could even get a ratcheting tap handle, which I've used in the past with good results.
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Old 02-28-2004, 03:11 AM   #1902
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Tower has lowered price for Pro4, now it`s 330$. It`s still expensive compare Speedtech

Spareparts are available mid mar

BUT, where i can get extra spurgears, bevelgears and pivot blocks like 2.0 and 2.5*???
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Old 02-28-2004, 03:17 AM   #1903
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Some shops in asia have spare parts, but have'nt been able to find the 2.0 pivot blocks anywhere yet...
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Old 02-28-2004, 04:50 AM   #1904
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Default hpi springs

i run it for the fist time and the car performs very well
out of the box only few changes where made
does anybody now the lbs of the hpi springs
i run hpi for the first time , but was impressed about quality
of the kit was nice to built it
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Old 02-28-2004, 07:44 AM   #1905
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Heya got mypro4 today the other day!

Built it. Very different to the other cars from HPI..........

gave me a bit of a shock..........with shims and the like.....lol........

But very nice. Took a while to ge thte drivetrain nice and smooth and free but its all good. very nice car. i like the change to all the hops ups included!!!

a week until i can track test it though but it will be worth it.
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