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Old 02-26-2004, 09:02 AM   #1876
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Default Re: Spring Perches

Quote:
Originally posted by Erik Shauver
jleibund: Those aluminum spring perches are the problem. They will limit the how low you can set the ride height. I would recommend the stock plastic piece as they will lower the spring around 3mm. The aluminum perches replicate the spacing of our older cars (Pro 2, Pro 3) and set the spring higher up. The second problem will be the body hitting the front shock tower. The Lotus body's nose is a bit lower than most.

-E
I have those spring perches too... I have no problem getting down to 4.5 - 5.0mm ride heights using the stock gold/silver springs.
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Old 02-26-2004, 09:54 AM   #1877
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Erik S.
Can you fax me, or post a set up for stock motor, on a large "high grip" smooth asphalt track? Front spool/ locked diff.

561-547-5500
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Old 02-26-2004, 11:24 AM   #1878
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Default Re: Re: Spring Perches

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Last edited by Erik Shauver; 09-11-2006 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 02-26-2004, 12:05 PM   #1879
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Erik, thanks for the response and link. Unfortunatly, my server, WebTV does not support Adobe Acrobat. Thats why I asked for a fax. I get one of my friends to download it and print it if the fax thing can't happen.
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Old 02-26-2004, 12:06 PM   #1880
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Erik, zombie thanks for the tips. I'll try the stock ones tonight to see if they make a difference. I'd like to keep the larger tires just for tooling around, not racing. Of course I don't want my car to ride too high. I'll look into the mounts too and maybe post some closeups to see what you guys think. I tripple-checked the manual for the right parts and orientation, but I may have missed something. BTW, I took the car out for ~5 minutes today... it was freakin awesome, but definitely needs to be balanced and setup! Waiting for my setup board to arrive...

I'm noticing that regardless of what wheel I try, the camber links in the rear are dangerously close to the inside of the rims. Is this just another argument for different wheels or could 1mm spacers help out?

zombie, I was careful to check the front for this based on a post you made a few weeks ago. My front wheels have sufficient clearance now.

For anyone who is effectively a beginner, like me, but wants to work on and drive a pro-level car, I'd recommend the touring setup guide that XXX-Main publishes. I've been very pleased with it. I'm sure lots of you know of better ones, still this is nice, compact and informative.

JP
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Old 02-26-2004, 01:03 PM   #1881
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jleibund - The CS-27 tires I run were also very close to the ballcups, and a slightly tweaked wheel was rubbing the ball cups. I just shaved a slight amount off and it was perfect.

Take a file, exacto, or dremel and just shave off enough to make you more comfortable if needed.

I also keep the XXX-main book in my tool box as a quick reference guide
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Old 02-26-2004, 01:23 PM   #1882
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jleibund..

That's great that everything has been worked out... now get your car tuned and kick some butt at the track...
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Old 02-26-2004, 03:07 PM   #1883
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Quote:
Originally posted by TSR6
I also keep the XXX-main book in my tool box as a quick refferance guide
I think you should consider keeping a dictionary there as well, as a "refferance" guide.
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Old 02-26-2004, 03:19 PM   #1884
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Quote:
Originally posted by futureal
I think you should consider keeping a dictionary there as well, as a "refferance" guide.
fixed. Instead of a dictionary, how about you send me time to sleep instead. I posted that right before my nap, which I just woke up from.
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Old 02-26-2004, 03:53 PM   #1885
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I got mine too today All those purple parts, i have to use sunglassies

I also got my spareparts from HK.

Very nice car to assembly.... i hardly can`t wait when i`ll go our clubtrack
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Old 02-27-2004, 09:39 AM   #1886
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Hi Guys,

We finally were able to put together Ti-Screw kit for the HPI Pro4 These are high quality light weight titanium 2.0 mm hex wrench type screws. Available now!

Steve Wang
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Old 02-27-2004, 09:40 AM   #1887
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Steve

will you be putting a Ceramic Bearing set ?
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Old 02-27-2004, 09:46 AM   #1888
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Finally, I fix my diff gear. I try out debonder almost melt the geat. I use dremel and hobby knife and take out the spacer. Well, I didn't use CA this time, see if its going to cause problem. Need to get some super thin CA. I'm half way there finishing my pro4. Pretty smooth for the drivetrain. The chassis is much stiffer than my Rayspeed SD, but I have to said. The design of drivetrain. SD is still the best. If can combine pro4 and SD, like what Kai do to SD and Evo3. That would be the best drive shaft car. Use Pro4 chassis, suspension system, steering, shock towers, and use SD drivetrain system.
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Old 02-27-2004, 09:51 AM   #1889
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aku-Man
Finally, I fix my diff gear. I try out debonder almost melt the geat. I use dremel and hobby knife and take out the spacer. Well, I didn't use CA this time, see if its going to cause problem. Need to get some super thin CA. I'm half way there finishing my pro4. Pretty smooth for the drivetrain. The chassis is much stiffer than my Rayspeed SD, but I have to said. The design of drivetrain. SD is still the best to work on. If can combine pro4 and SD, like what Kai do to SD and Evo3. That would be the best drive shaft car. Use Pro4 chassis, suspension system, steering, shock towers, and use SD drivetrain system.
I used to own the SD... and
I'll have to agree with you..the SD is easier to work on..especially changing the spur gears and diff access.. the Pro4 chassis and performance overall is one of the best...
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Old 02-27-2004, 12:02 PM   #1890
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Working on the Pro4 is pretty easy once the screw holes get worked in a little bit. The first couple times of removing the upper deck can be a chore thanks to the stiff composites. Now that I've put the screws in and out several times, It's not so bad.

This morning I tore down the car to de-shield the bearings in the diffs, and check the teeth before making a practice run at the US Triple Crown race, and had it back together before my practice pack had peaked.

It's no harder to work on than any other electric car I've had.

Time to head back to the track!
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