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Old 02-23-2004, 10:51 AM   #1741
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After soaking the in the Hot Tub...
I've had about 10 practice runs on mine and diff gears still like new... no problem with durablity.
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:57 AM   #1742
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Quote:
Originally posted by AWOLsoldier
Yah I figured that was a bit harsh so i edited it... I've never had much luck with molded diff cases, etc in the past so i avoid cars that have those. Look at the tc3, sure it's successful but you have to do so much to it to get it to run the way most people want it. No excuse for the diff gears, you shouldn't have to soak them in hot water for them not to fail. And I honestly believe that any new car you own is "the best ever". That really doesn't mean that much.
AWOL - I'm going into this with open ears. I haven't run the car yet, but my impression from building it has me smiling ear to ear. The last car I had this much fun with before even running it was my Losi XXX-S, which I was fairly successful with ( for example, I was the only belt car in the rubber A at the Novak USTC)

I don't even know if you "have to" soak them in hot water, but being a car without full parts support yet, I'm not taking any chances - nor do I think anyone else should.

I remember when the TC3 came out, being a Pro2 guy, we were all laughing at the TC3's breaking suspension arms. Rome wasn't built in one day.
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:00 AM   #1743
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Quote:
Originally posted by TSR6
.....Pro4 problems - The only "problem" I have heard of thus far is the diff gears,... and nobody that has done the "hot bath" has broken them yet ( that I am aware of ).....
that's funny... The person(s) that posted this boiling tip, did so before they even ran the car... so, i ask, was it in fact a problem in the first place?... I really don't recall any reports of problems with the PRO4 'out-da-box'....

maybe i've missed something...
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:02 AM   #1744
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Quote:
Originally posted by TSR6
AWOL - I'm going into this with open ears. I haven't run the car yet, but my impression from building it has me smiling ear to ear. The last car I had this much fun with before even running it was my Losi XXX-S, which I was fairly successful with ( for example, I was the only belt car in the rubber A at the Novak USTC)

I don't even know if you "have to" soak them in hot water, but being a car without full parts support yet, I'm not taking any chances - nor do I think anyone else should.

I remember when the TC3 came out, being a Pro2 guy, we were all laughing at the TC3's breaking suspension arms. Rome wasn't built in one day.
I read many many many pages back...soaking was not nessessary...just a preventive procedure... if a lube is applied and is thin enough..the diff gears will absorb some of that oil.

I had the Pro2 as well... that car was built like a tank...
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:04 AM   #1745
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Quote:
Originally posted by OSherman
that's funny... The person(s) that posted this boiling tip, did so before they even ran the car... so, i ask, was it in fact a problem in the first place?... I really don't recall any reports of problems with the PRO4 'out-da-box'....

maybe i've missed something...
Osherman - It originally suggested by the guys from HPI. I don't remember if Erik posted it here, but it was suggested on the HPI Europe's forum.

I did it out of the box just to "be safe," and have been passing on the "hot bath" (note: I'm keeping away from the term "boiling" ) tip to others who ask how to do it.

Have there been gear breakages? Yes. Can we even be sure boiling would have helped them? I don't know. I guess it depends on the nature of the breakage.
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:04 AM   #1746
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Hey it's all good, opinions are just that, opinons... not worth much in the end.
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:05 AM   #1747
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Quote:
Originally posted by OSherman
that's funny... The person(s) that posted this boiling tip, did so before they even ran the car... so, i ask, was it in fact a problem in the first place?... I really don't recall any reports of problems with the PRO4 'out-da-box'....

maybe i've missed something...
It was posted on the R&D Cafe HPI Japan site.... in it's current state the diffs were too brittle and teeths started to brake...boiling the gears adds moisure back into the parts making it more durable.... Even on the grahite arms of the Pro3 and 'Cuda...they recommend boiling the parts.
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:49 AM   #1748
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can someone tell me the rates of congo springs.
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Old 02-23-2004, 12:53 PM   #1749
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I assembled most of the kit this weekend. Its looking sweet. Just waiting on the alum rear knockles from HK to finish it off this week.

In the meantime, does anyone know where I can find suitable replacement posts for the rear end, preferably anodized alum? zombie, I picked up a pair of those HB 60mm for the frontend, they're great!

I'm reticent to cut the factory parts to size just for one of my several bodies (some of which need larger posts) and I haven't seen the factory replacement parts out there for the rear posts. I suppose if I had some metalworking bits, I could just adapt a set of the HBs, but I'd rather buy something intended for that purpose.

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Old 02-23-2004, 12:58 PM   #1750
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Quote:
Originally posted by jleibund
I assembled most of the kit this weekend. Its looking sweet. Just waiting on the alum rear knockles from HK to finish it off this week.

In the meantime, does anyone know where I can find suitable replacement posts for the rear end, preferably anodized alum? zombie, I picked up a pair of those HB 60mm for the frontend, they're great!

I'm reticent to cut the factory parts to size just for one of my several bodies (some of which need larger posts) and I haven't seen the factory replacement parts out there for the rear posts. I suppose if I had some metalworking bits, I could just adapt a set of the HBs, but I'd rather buy something intended for that purpose.

jleibund
The rear body post will be out shortly by Tobee Craft or Product D.
I'm dissappointed with there past items...they don't match the HPI purple very well... I just got the new alum. driveshaft cups...they're more pink than purple.

http://www3.kcn.ne.jp/~tobee/pro4%20english.htm
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Old 02-23-2004, 01:30 PM   #1751
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Yeah, I noticed the same thing and kept the center cup joints, but passed on the dogbones when I got them and went with HPI's.

Thanks for the info.
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Old 02-23-2004, 04:14 PM   #1752
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Integy also has clamping hexes from the Atlas cars. They are very nice and the color is very close to HPI..

http://integy.automated-shops.com/cg...08104115961.0a

http://integy.automated-shops.com/cg...08104115961.0a
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Old 02-23-2004, 08:42 PM   #1753
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Hey guys has anyone bought the new hpi stratus body for the pro 4? If so does the body have the dimples on the body for the pro 4. Thanks
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:01 PM   #1754
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Quote:
Originally posted by bigdog
Hey guys has anyone bought the new hpi stratus body for the pro 4? If so does the body have the dimples on the body for the pro 4. Thanks
Yes it does, but it's a rubber tire body. You have to cut most of the chin spoiler off to keep if from dragging on the carpet w/foams.
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:25 PM   #1755
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can get pro 4 from www.ultimatehobbies.com
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