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Old 10-15-2008, 06:39 PM   #15526
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Does Vintage Trans Am count?
Or real TC racing?
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Old 10-15-2008, 06:40 PM   #15527
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Anyone still using this car for racing?
I got one that I recently bought used.... I haven't gotten it setup for racing as of yet because I am having a problem with the steering binding and don't know what to do or look for. I am going to get some pictures up in here soon and maybe someone has an idea as to what to do about it.
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Old 10-15-2008, 07:22 PM   #15528
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Yea I meant actual TC racing.
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Old 10-15-2008, 07:24 PM   #15529
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Originally Posted by jbmx4life View Post
I got one that I recently bought used.... I haven't gotten it setup for racing as of yet because I am having a problem with the steering binding and don't know what to do or look for. I am going to get some pictures up in here soon and maybe someone has an idea as to what to do about it.
Check the steering rack by the pivot blocks sometimes it catches there. also make sure thatthe servo saver isn't to tight.
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Old 10-15-2008, 07:39 PM   #15530
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Check the steering rack by the pivot blocks sometimes it catches there. also make sure thatthe servo saver isn't to tight.
right now there is no servo in it so I know that isn't the problem. From looking at the instructions online.... it seems as though the parts that are binding are the steering plate and the pivot block. Well the steering plate is hitting/binding on the pivot block. If needed I can get pictures tho.
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Old 10-15-2008, 08:00 PM   #15531
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right now there is no servo in it so I know that isn't the problem. From looking at the instructions online.... it seems as though the parts that are binding are the steering plate and the pivot block. Well the steering plate is hitting/binding on the pivot block. If needed I can get pictures tho.
I had the same proble with mine. I think I sanded down the steeing plate a little bit and made sure the pivot block was foward enough. Some other people have ground down the block a little.

I think the steering servo is built into the steerng assembly on the left side, not on the servo itself. Its been a while since I've looked at mine.
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Old 10-16-2008, 04:46 AM   #15532
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Yea I meant actual TC racing.
I tried it in the begining of the year racing 13.5 it was good to learn on but I couldn't keep up with some of the higher end cars out. I switched to a cyclone and my average lap times and fastest lap times droped as it was an all around better car to drive at least to me
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Old 01-06-2009, 08:46 PM   #15533
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jest got a used pro4 the rear gear box was a mess had to replace all bearing lucky i had spare parts from my main car. had to replace oil in scocks too. i wonder if th bearin can b rebiult . this car has seen alot of racing.
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Old 01-17-2009, 05:45 PM   #15534
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Hey Dudes, Ladies,

Glad to see that theres still much love for this car, it's still my main chassis, although i'm thinking it's probably time to move on. If only it weren't for all of those spares!

Well, I solved my problems with the front diff - people had been telling me alla long that it was the one-way, turns out that they were right. I had swapped diffs in before but to no avail. I can only guess that i didn't pay proper attention to shimming them and thats why it didnt appear to cure the problem.

I've upgraded to brushless recently and am curious if any Pro 4 owners have changed their setup to reflect this too? I only ran 27t stock before, so 13.5t brushless is quite a step-up. I ran the car very aggresive with the brushed motor, but this setup wont work with the brushless, the car is all over the place.

I've reverted to the stock kit setup, but it's still quite tail happy under power. Once bouncing along though, it's quite happy if a little understeery at top end.

I'm also having troubles with my diffs too - these have never been mcuh of an issue with the stock motor, but i guess all of the extra power and torque s taking its toll. Two meetings equals two dead rear diffs. I'm concerned i maybe running them too loose/tight. The manual (which is pretty hopeless IMHO) states that the diff should be locked when allen keys are inserted into the outdrives, but it doesn't go into any more detail than that. If i tighten them just tight enough so that i cannot turn the gear, i find that i can easily turn the one wheel if i hold the other once all is assembled, obviously because i have allot more leverage like this.

I feel like a bit of a numpty TBH, but whatever i'm doing obviously isn't right.
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Old 01-17-2009, 07:31 PM   #15535
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Originally Posted by Andysan View Post
Hey Dudes, Ladies,

Glad to see that theres still much love for this car, it's still my main chassis, although i'm thinking it's probably time to move on. If only it weren't for all of those spares!

Well, I solved my problems with the front diff - people had been telling me alla long that it was the one-way, turns out that they were right. I had swapped diffs in before but to no avail. I can only guess that i didn't pay proper attention to shimming them and thats why it didnt appear to cure the problem.

I've upgraded to brushless recently and am curious if any Pro 4 owners have changed their setup to reflect this too? I only ran 27t stock before, so 13.5t brushless is quite a step-up. I ran the car very aggresive with the brushed motor, but this setup wont work with the brushless, the car is all over the place.

I've reverted to the stock kit setup, but it's still quite tail happy under power. Once bouncing along though, it's quite happy if a little understeery at top end.

I'm also having troubles with my diffs too - these have never been mcuh of an issue with the stock motor, but i guess all of the extra power and torque s taking its toll. Two meetings equals two dead rear diffs. I'm concerned i maybe running them too loose/tight. The manual (which is pretty hopeless IMHO) states that the diff should be locked when allen keys are inserted into the outdrives, but it doesn't go into any more detail than that. If i tighten them just tight enough so that i cannot turn the gear, i find that i can easily turn the one wheel if i hold the other once all is assembled, obviously because i have allot more leverage like this.

I feel like a bit of a numpty TBH, but whatever i'm doing obviously isn't right.
simple fix for all those spares...buy a cyclone alot of parts swap over.

What exactly is happening to your diffs?
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Old 01-18-2009, 04:15 AM   #15536
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I am tempted by the cyclone, but it's only the four corners reallly that are compatible aren't they? I've got about a dozen read made diffs, three or four spares centre shafts and propshafts, a dozen or so gear sets, two or three upper and lower decks, all of which would be pretty useless. You are right though i guess, it's probably the better car to move forward with.

I just seem to keep totalling the diffs, they feel fine before i go out, then i come back off the track and they are wrecked, feel very very gritty, so much so that they can't even be rebuilt and i ususally end up lobbing them in the bin. I reckon i must be using too little grease, or tightening them up too much/not enough. The manual says only to coat the balls in grease, but i always feel that this isn't enough and but a fair bit on the rings too. I'm using the Tamiya standard silicon tube for the balls/plates, and the Associated black grease for the thrust assembly.

Thanks!
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Old 01-18-2009, 12:08 PM   #15537
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I have a pro4 hara and will race it this year in the stock class, I also have a cyclone and its ok, but not for stock. I am trying to find a FDR for a 17.5 brushless any thoughts?
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Old 01-18-2009, 01:24 PM   #15538
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I have a pro4 hara and will race it this year in the stock class, I also have a cyclone and its ok, but not for stock. I am trying to find a FDR for a 17.5 brushless any thoughts?

perhaps 3.5-3.8??

what the difference between the standard Pro4 and the Hara kit?

what is the FDR of the Pro4?
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Old 01-18-2009, 04:28 PM   #15539
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its the same as the cyclone, the hara has a lot of optional parts included.
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Last edited by bigb11; 01-18-2009 at 04:30 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 01-18-2009, 04:34 PM   #15540
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Quote:
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its the same as the cyclone, the hara has a lot of optional parts included.
yes shaft drive only !
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