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Old 05-09-2007, 09:44 AM   #15241
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I built this out of some Pro 4 and Cyclone spares.

Not 100% done, but nearly.

Sorry for the blurryness, it was about to rain and it finally did when I snapped the last one.











The body is the old beater is a Tamiya one I got with a chassis from ebay - the wheelbase is right but the width is out and the front arches needed enlarging. WB 210mm, width 190mm.

It still takes 6 cells, and the front gearbox design means it can be swapped from a spool, or a diff when needed.

Haven't run it yet though.
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Old 05-09-2007, 09:45 AM   #15242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by academygaz
I built this out of some Pro 4 and Cyclone spares.

Not 100% done, but nearly.

Sorry for the blurryness, it was about to rain and it finally did when I snapped the last one.











The body is the old beater is a Tamiya one I got with a chassis from ebay - the wheelbase is right but the width is out and the front arches needed enlarging. WB 210mm, width 190mm.

It still takes 6 cells, and the front gearbox design means it can be swapped from a spool, or a diff to a oneway when needed.

Haven't run it yet though.
Man that looks cool I really like that. Let us know how it runs.
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Old 05-09-2007, 09:46 AM   #15243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by academygaz
I built this out of some Pro 4 and Cyclone spares.

Not 100% done, but nearly.

Sorry for the blurryness, it was about to rain and it finally did when I snapped the last one.











The body is the old beater is a Tamiya one I got with a chassis from ebay - the wheelbase is right but the width is out and the front arches needed enlarging. WB 210mm, width 190mm.

It still takes 6 cells, and the front gearbox design means it can be swapped from a spool, or a diff when needed.

Haven't run it yet though.
Try finding some hpi mini arms and mini cvds to narrow it a little but it does look great...
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Old 05-09-2007, 10:43 AM   #15244
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Default Weird problem

Ok my Pro4 seem to steer to da right upon acceleration.....

At 1st I thought it was the famous torque-steer problem as this is my 1st time owning a shaft drive car........but as i mingle around da car, i found out that the front one way seems to slips on the right side......once in a while it wud slip wen I hold tight the right wheel and accelerate at da same time.....

So I figure something is wrong with the one-way diff........what can I do to fix this prob instead of buying a new diff?????
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Old 05-09-2007, 01:31 PM   #15245
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Originally Posted by diozxlive
im re-building a pro4 for drag/speedrun. would a spool on both ends help me on straigh line and acceleration? and would a 24mm wheels be a good idea the the motor would be 5700 mamba. thanks...
When you get a chance check your pm. I gave you a gear set up to do both dragracing and speed runs. Contact me if you have anymore questions I'm glad to help. Take Care...
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Old 05-09-2007, 02:58 PM   #15246
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Originally Posted by bxpitbull
I dont know about all of that TRJ. Having seen the Pro 4 with open diffs go with a Roy Anderson can and 8 cells, I beg to differ. The Pro 4 is much more stable with spools for straight line runs. Adjusting the droop by an inkling kills the torque steer.
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Old 05-09-2007, 02:58 PM   #15247
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I dont know about all of that TRJ. Having seen the Pro 4 with open diffs go with a Roy Anderson can and 8 cells, I beg to differ. The Pro 4 is much more stable with spools for straight line runs. Adjusting the droop by an inkling on the left hand side of the car kills the noticeable torque steer.
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Old 05-09-2007, 03:01 PM   #15248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trjracing
Yea Bx I gave him some tips in his pm and I've been trying to help him out too. You know what he is doing is what I do best. As for super narrows 22mm he can use them but they aren't that easy to find from HPI. I'm still runnig those 22mm super narrows on my TC3 on x pattern tires. He would be able to get away with them but he won't be able to steer at high speeds. Also he would have to cut his steering throw down to 30% in order to steer and keep the car stable at high speeds. Spools are great for drag racing but not for speedruns. For speed runs you need an open diff but tighten it down to reduce torque roll, but you need some torque roll to keep MPH momentum with spools you can't do that. Spools are great to run short track. You get great hard launches and keeps the car going strate as an arrow on the 132ft. Bx tell him for yourself, you seen my cars run with and with out spools.
Bx did you get what I was saying about open diffs for speed runs???
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Old 05-09-2007, 03:08 PM   #15249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxpitbull
I dont know about all of that TRJ. Having seen the Pro 4 with open diffs go with a Roy Anderson can and 8 cells, I beg to differ. The Pro 4 is much more stable with spools for straight line runs. Adjusting the droop by an inkling on the left hand side of the car kills the noticeable torque steer.
Who got a pro4 set up like that???
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Old 05-09-2007, 03:14 PM   #15250
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Ahhh, funny how folks discover stuff. I dont know about the TC3, but one of the motivating factors to getting the Pro4 was the stability of the car and lack of torque steer. Some dude I used to see at Nagengast had one with 8 cells and a 6 single. Spools front and rear, the car went straight as an arrow. He got out of the game when he car wrecked. Reminiscent of what Eric ran with the 7 cells and the 6 magnet cobalt can, but Eric had opened diffs and his car pulled to the right. Thats why I say no to opened diffs for speed runs.
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Old 05-09-2007, 03:29 PM   #15251
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Yea I remember Erics pro4. But after years for testing and dragracing and speed running touring cars I found that spools are the best for dragracing on the 132ft. Running spools on a speed run you can't correct steer if you get loose on the top end you end up hooking right or hooking left or breaking a cvd with spools on a speed run and lose that MPH momentum and possibly crash, I've been there,as with open diffs you can correct steer and not lose MPH momentum and with out breaking a cvd and getting out of control. But pound for pound spools are great for a drag race strate hard launches I swear on that one.
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Old 05-09-2007, 03:46 PM   #15252
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Basicly what I am trying to say is that open diffs for speed runs give you better handling and is forgiving if you ever need to correct steer your car at high speeds the little bit of torque roll will keep your rpms up and MPH up too. Spools aren't forgiving for correct steering and you will lose that MPH and momentum and you will lose rpm and hurt your motor too. Trust me been there done that. Just when you run open diff you need too close them down until they are firm don't lock them down.
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Old 05-09-2007, 05:07 PM   #15253
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Hey Bx I got a good example, Look at cliff lett when he ran 96mph with his Tc3 that was (open diffs )his 2wd 111mph car ball diff rear (open diff) our friend jetlee with his 12 cell pro3 ran 88mph (open diffs). I ran 12cells Tc3 71mph (open diffs) even the entc3 that ran 134mph (open diffs)and his 2wd car that ran 160mph (open diff). All these cars did not run spools. All did speed runs.
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Old 05-09-2007, 07:18 PM   #15254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mangoman
Nah i'll hold onto them, but thanks for asking. I bought a few spare bevel gears as spares though.

Basically if you run a spool or oneway if you hit things when on power there is no give in the drive train which is why it strips teeth. It helps if you shim the teeth correctly and also if you soak the bevel gears in hot water before installing.
wot does that do. is it like hardening the plastic for strength
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Old 05-09-2007, 08:06 PM   #15255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trjracing
Hey Bx I got a good example, Look at cliff lett when he ran 96mph with his Tc3 that was (open diffs )his 2wd 111mph car ball diff rear (open diff) our friend jetlee with his 12 cell pro3 ran 88mph (open diffs). I ran 12cells Tc3 71mph (open diffs) even the entc3 that ran 134mph (open diffs)and his 2wd car that ran 160mph (open diff). All these cars did not run spools. All did speed runs.
None of them were PRO4's....... Not to mention, the Pro4 doesnt have metal outdrives like the TC3 or Pro3...sooooooooo unless you get custom made metal outdrives, the heat build up will lock em up and make them into spools or even worse, slip. So, to avoid that, run spools.
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Last edited by bxpitbull; 05-09-2007 at 08:20 PM.
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