4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
07-15-2010, 07:07 PM
#9302
You need to give in
BTW chassis right now is not 2.5 it's 2.25 (2.5 is an option chassis)
07-15-2010, 08:43 PM
#9304
He might also mean he is running anti-dive, .5mm under the front rear - we really need to give the suspension mounts nicknames, any suggestions?
If you are running anti-dive, you will get more initial steering and less mid corner. Compared to the 416X kit setup, adding 0.5mm extra under all the suspension blocks will maintain a similar balance but the car will sit much flatter through corners. If the grip is high, more corner speed will be the result, if the grip is low the car will slide around.
If you are running anti-dive, you will get more initial steering and less mid corner. Compared to the 416X kit setup, adding 0.5mm extra under all the suspension blocks will maintain a similar balance but the car will sit much flatter through corners. If the grip is high, more corner speed will be the result, if the grip is low the car will slide around.
07-15-2010, 09:21 PM
#9305
He might also mean he is running anti-dive, .5mm under the front rear - we really need to give the suspension mounts nicknames, any suggestions?
If you are running anti-dive, you will get more initial steering and less mid corner. Compared to the 416X kit setup, adding 0.5mm extra under all the suspension blocks will maintain a similar balance but the car will sit much flatter through corners. If the grip is high, more corner speed will be the result, if the grip is low the car will slide around.
If you are running anti-dive, you will get more initial steering and less mid corner. Compared to the 416X kit setup, adding 0.5mm extra under all the suspension blocks will maintain a similar balance but the car will sit much flatter through corners. If the grip is high, more corner speed will be the result, if the grip is low the car will slide around.
07-15-2010, 09:38 PM
#9306
also my preferred method
I now have my preorder in for the lipo conversion, like someone said on the last page 5th of august is the release date in Japan, and if buying the 201 has taught me anything its that rc champ will have it at my doorstep by the 8th
I now have my preorder in for the lipo conversion, like someone said on the last page 5th of august is the release date in Japan, and if buying the 201 has taught me anything its that rc champ will have it at my doorstep by the 8th
07-16-2010, 12:40 AM
#9307
Hi guy would really appreciate an answer on the question below: 
the new TRF Li-Po chassis comes with either a one way spool or without. What do you use a one way spool for? I'm driving on asphalt so not sure if I need one?
cheers
Thanks for the replies CraigM & DirtyDog
the new TRF Li-Po chassis comes with either a one way spool or without. What do you use a one way spool for? I'm driving on asphalt so not sure if I need one?
cheers
Thanks for the replies CraigM & DirtyDog
Last edited by Taman; 07-16-2010 at 02:11 AM.
07-16-2010, 12:47 AM
#9308
I would say not, but its up to you. In slower classes some people use one ways and they can be very fast but realistically a spool will always be better in a race. The reason they do an upgrade with the one way is because with the belts flipped the kit one way won't work
07-16-2010, 12:55 AM
#9309
lipo chassis
There are 2 different kits available (lipo conversions - not whole kits). They are both the same, except one comes without the centre oneway pulley and front oneway diff unit.
The part numbers are:
42181 - comes with oneways
42182 - comes without oneways
All other chassis parts and mounting parts are the same. Both chassis (main deck) is 2.25mm with a 2.0mm top deck.
42181 is available now (I have had mine since Monday this week).
42182 is not yet available.
It is personal preference and track type what conversion kit to get. Most tracks and people do not use oneways (front or centre) anymore. (except racers in Japan - hence why the oneway version is available now).
HTH.
The part numbers are:
42181 - comes with oneways
42182 - comes without oneways
All other chassis parts and mounting parts are the same. Both chassis (main deck) is 2.25mm with a 2.0mm top deck.
42181 is available now (I have had mine since Monday this week).
42182 is not yet available.
It is personal preference and track type what conversion kit to get. Most tracks and people do not use oneways (front or centre) anymore. (except racers in Japan - hence why the oneway version is available now).
HTH.
07-16-2010, 02:13 AM
#9310
I dont think the high diffs are a good idea on carpet, but I will check with my source what the team ran this winter on carpet.
Eirik
07-16-2010, 02:24 AM
#9311
Does the new kit come with a gear diff at the rear?
07-16-2010, 05:41 AM
#9312
Thanks for the replies guys, but now I'm a little more confused.
I'll have to find the post, but it said to raise the rear RC to get more steering. The problem I have is that the rear is planted and pushes when on throttle, but if I let off and let the car "set" I can get back on throttle on make the corner. I'm losing a lot of time having to slow down way early so the car "set" for the corner. Right now I have no shims under any of the susp. mounts, what result would putting the .5mm shims under the rear mounts(fr/rr) get me?
I'll have to find the post, but it said to raise the rear RC to get more steering. The problem I have is that the rear is planted and pushes when on throttle, but if I let off and let the car "set" I can get back on throttle on make the corner. I'm losing a lot of time having to slow down way early so the car "set" for the corner. Right now I have no shims under any of the susp. mounts, what result would putting the .5mm shims under the rear mounts(fr/rr) get me?When you put shims under your arms you are raising the roll center, and when you put shims under your camber links you are lowering the roll center...
To lower the roll center you would raise the inner camber link position and lower the front arm. You could also lower the outside camber link as well.
Lower
• More on-throttle steering.
• Car is less responsive.
• More weight transfer at front of car.
• Better on smooth, high grip tracks with long fast corners.
To raise the roll center you would lower the inner camber link and raise the front arm. You could also raise the outside camber link as well.
Higher
• Less on-throttle steering.
• Car is more responsive.
• Less weight transfer at front of car.
• Use in high grip conditions to avoid traction rolling.
• Use on tracks with quick direction changes (chicanes).
To lower the roll center you would raise the inner camber link position and lower the front arm. You could also lower the outside camber link as well.
Lower
• More on-throttle steering.
• Car is less responsive.
• More weight transfer at front of car.
• Better on smooth, high grip tracks with long fast corners.
To raise the roll center you would lower the inner camber link and raise the front arm. You could also raise the outside camber link as well.
Higher
• Less on-throttle steering.
• Car is more responsive.
• Less weight transfer at front of car.
• Use in high grip conditions to avoid traction rolling.
• Use on tracks with quick direction changes (chicanes).
07-16-2010, 06:24 PM
#9314
Artworks discription is what I find as well. To put a shim under the suspension bridges front or back will loosen that end of the car, less grip.
How about calling them (from front to rear) front, mid front, mid rear, and rear, I think its pretty self explanitory.
Boy I hate this car, I have a worked over 416, not a WE or a X, I have shelved this car for about 4 months now, due to a disagreement, last week I took it out, put in a older speed control and a used up motor, proceded to turn more consistant laps and only a 10th off my best time with the car I have spent a lot more time on. They are both great cars, but my 416 is such a tease.
JCarr, what is it your trying to make the car do??
How about calling them (from front to rear) front, mid front, mid rear, and rear, I think its pretty self explanitory.
Boy I hate this car, I have a worked over 416, not a WE or a X, I have shelved this car for about 4 months now, due to a disagreement, last week I took it out, put in a older speed control and a used up motor, proceded to turn more consistant laps and only a 10th off my best time with the car I have spent a lot more time on. They are both great cars, but my 416 is such a tease.
JCarr, what is it your trying to make the car do??
07-16-2010, 08:14 PM
#9315
There are 2 different kits available (lipo conversions - not whole kits). They are both the same, except one comes without the centre oneway pulley and front oneway diff unit.
The part numbers are:
42181 - comes with oneways
42182 - comes without oneways
All other chassis parts and mounting parts are the same. Both chassis (main deck) is 2.25mm with a 2.0mm top deck.
42181 is available now (I have had mine since Monday this week).
42182 is not yet available.
It is personal preference and track type what conversion kit to get. Most tracks and people do not use oneways (front or centre) anymore. (except racers in Japan - hence why the oneway version is available now).
HTH.
The part numbers are:
42181 - comes with oneways
42182 - comes without oneways
All other chassis parts and mounting parts are the same. Both chassis (main deck) is 2.25mm with a 2.0mm top deck.
42181 is available now (I have had mine since Monday this week).
42182 is not yet available.
It is personal preference and track type what conversion kit to get. Most tracks and people do not use oneways (front or centre) anymore. (except racers in Japan - hence why the oneway version is available now).
HTH.
How much?
How about some pictures.