Toh WL

iTrader: (6)

yes, that's for sure..

bkspeedo

iTrader: (5)

I have asked the fast guys and have made changes but it has not helped yet.


Carpet 90x40 using Jack for traction compound. I'm doping the inside 1/4 of the tire about 10 minutes before running. I fact I tried not doping the front tire at all which helped a little. Tires are Jaco Blue.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

I've tried a bit, but to be honest, I think my car often suffers from the same issue. I've just become used to driving an aggressive car. I don't like a stuck, safe feeling car. Maybe that's a bit of Stockholm syndrome?

Brent: If you haven't already, try 1D/1D up front, and 1XA/1F in the rear. Also, I'd put all the toe blocks flat on the chassis, and run blue/yellow springs front/rear. This should be about as soft and planted as the car will be. You could also take the rear sway off, though I never like the way that feels. Then from there, work your way back up to free up the car to your liking. Honestly, I'm not really that thrilled with how my car feels on our home track, but out of town (and at the old place) is always feels phenomenal. Right now, sometimes I feel like we're barely hanging on.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Is Jack the only traction compound you can run? I wonder if thats causing some of the problem.

I had similar issues with my car and also thought it was the servo saver, I ended up trying another setup (Jilles snowbird) and I could not believe the difference in the car. I really didn't think I had got that far off the setup, but I guess I did, in any matter, never did change the servo saver, but the car is much better now.

One other thing to check, is to make sure that your shock pivot balls are free to rotate, they may feel okay on the bench, but they have to be free on the track or you'll get some really wild reactions out of the car that will make you scratch your head. I had a car that noone could run, almost a evil beast on the track, but now seems much better since I freed these up.

I also most recently did the belt flip conversion, on track it seems to work very nice as well. Don't know if its worth the effort, but its a nice option to have as well.

bkspeedo

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for all the input. I've got a lot of things to try for Thur night.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

When using Jack, it's also a good idea to sauce the rear tires longer than the front, maybe 20-30 mins on the rears, and 5-10 on the fronts.

To mellow the car out, and give more exit steering you can also remove shims from the ackerman ballstuds. Try going to 4mm, if that's not enough, try 3.

I started off with Jilles' LRP TCM setup from thard.co.uk and actually had to make it more aggressive. I ended up saucing about 90% of the front tires and still had no oversteer problems. Good Luck!

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

I'm not sure if anyone noticed but in addition to an extra 1/2mm anti-dive spacers Jilles also ran hole 1 on the rear arms at snowbirds. That's the first time I've ever seen the TRF guys run the rear arms flipped so that could solve your oversteer issues if you have not already tried it

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

Question:

I cut the excerpt below from the Tamiya USA webpage. It's one of the items from the "Specs & Features" of the TRF416X Chassis Kit.

• Front pulley features a direct coupling while the center pulley also features a direct drive setup.

Is this describing a One Way or Spool? I'm guessing it's a One Way, since I have never heard of a center Spool.

If it's a Spool, what are the parts and part numbers needed to buy and install a One Way?

Last, are the suspension arms and most other parts common between the 416, WE and X?

Thanks!

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

it's a roundabout way of saying that it has a direct centre pulley and a spool. The original 416 came with a front 1 way, and the Japan version of the X comes with both a direct centre pulley and a centre 1 way

The arms of the original 416 are not the same as the WE/X, all the other suspension components are common across the 3 though

not sure the part number but I'm sure the question has been asked before so try search this thread

Stein Tumert

- Spool

The 416X Japan version comes with both spool and one way

Middle one way http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=49492

Front One way http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...uct-id=3454520 http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...uct-id=9444623 http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54023


The 416X has a number of parts which are different. If you check back on this thread you will find the parts described. Bulk heads, top deck, chassi plate.....
The 416X (and 416WE?) comes with short swing arms http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53928

...

KHoff7

iTrader: (5)

If you are running 17.5 or 13.5 with the car at The C a spool wont be a bad thing. I personally am using a spool in my 416 GT1 car.

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

Thanks guys.

It's been a while since I have run a carbon fiber chassis car (used to have Yokomo MR4BD). I like a front 1-Way a lot. I'm a bit apprehensive about using a spool for the first time.

I don't suppose the 1-way in my TA05 IFS-R will work in the 416X?

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

I'll try to catch up with you Karl before the C-Squared race at the C. I didn't realize you ran a 416. I thought that Austin V. was the only one.

KHoff7

iTrader: (5)

I just started running it after Snowbirds. Getting ready for TCS now. Xray remains as the "big race" car tho.

cheehtae

iTrader: (15)

I replaced the pin on my spec r DCJ with a titanium pin, will see how it goes.