4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
12-10-2009, 04:43 PM
#7427
If its stepping out in the sweeper I usually play with my uptravel settings. Try taking away some up travel in the rear to try and keep the weight from transfering forward you can also increase the front uptravel but this will promote more chassis roll in a sweeper situation so this sometimes does not do what you want. Also is it while you are still on power or are you starting to lift when it steps out?
12-10-2009, 04:43 PM
#7428
Also try standing up the rear shocks one hole.
12-10-2009, 04:52 PM
#7429
Tech Master
Check your diff. My car kept stepping out in one direction only, and found that the diff ring was slipping on the outdrive. Once I glued them on tight, the problem completely went away.
12-10-2009, 04:53 PM
#7430
Without seeing the car - here's what I would try - though most my experience is on Asphalt.
This car is really sensitive to the number of spacers under the rear arm mounts. I once had a car that was too locked in with 0 spacers, and when changed to 0.5mm spacers under the rear mounts, the car was breaking free when driven hard. I found myself ordering stupid paper thin 0.2mm shims.
Increase the height of the spacers under the front camber link. This keeps the front end flatter and keeps it from dumping over. Another alternative is thicker shock oil but you tend to loose steering in other places. You can go thicker in the front swaybar but going from medium to hard is very drastic.
If you are running a short camber link in the rear - lengthen it. I find the short camberlink setup very unpredictable when driven at the limit.
This car is really sensitive to the number of spacers under the rear arm mounts. I once had a car that was too locked in with 0 spacers, and when changed to 0.5mm spacers under the rear mounts, the car was breaking free when driven hard. I found myself ordering stupid paper thin 0.2mm shims.
Increase the height of the spacers under the front camber link. This keeps the front end flatter and keeps it from dumping over. Another alternative is thicker shock oil but you tend to loose steering in other places. You can go thicker in the front swaybar but going from medium to hard is very drastic.
If you are running a short camber link in the rear - lengthen it. I find the short camberlink setup very unpredictable when driven at the limit.
12-10-2009, 04:54 PM
#7431
Any suggestions on how to keep a car from stepping out in a high speed sweeper around the middle, and on through to the end? It's otherwise stable around the rest of the track, but I can't drive the sweeper with any confidence at all. I've shaken down the whole car looking for something bent or broken, and tried all kinds of setup stuff. I wonder if less ackermann (5mm currently) would help?
12-10-2009, 10:32 PM
#7432
What size is the wrench for the stock blue aluminum turnbuckles? I tried a friend's 4mm wrench and it's too small, and I have a feeling a 5mm wrench is going to be too large.
Shouldn't have ordered that blue Tamiya 4mm wrench from Speedtech I guess.
Shouldn't have ordered that blue Tamiya 4mm wrench from Speedtech I guess.
12-11-2009, 12:14 AM
#7433
Any suggestions on how to keep a car from stepping out in a high speed sweeper around the middle, and on through to the end? It's otherwise stable around the rest of the track, but I can't drive the sweeper with any confidence at all. I've shaken down the whole car looking for something bent or broken, and tried all kinds of setup stuff. I wonder if less ackermann (5mm currently) would help?
p.s. RC Champ have the 416x in stock. I'll be building one for a friend and he paid for it yesterday
12-11-2009, 01:07 AM
#7434
Sorry, not correct.... if you measure the rear screw positions, the screws that mount at the back of the rear bulkhead are further away on the X, than on the 416 and WE (which makes sense given the new diff position). I discovered this whilst measuring up Elliott's car this past weekend.
Also measured the top deck, and the flex scetion between the rear top deck screws is also slightly longer than on the WE and X. Kinda between where they are on the WE and removing the third screw... see the picture to see whaty I mean
Basically, you can't use the X chassis plate with an orig or WE 416, without getting the new rear bulkheads (and the new centre bulkheads, and top deck in turn).
However, you CAN use the new motor mount on an original and a WE, but like mentioned previously, you'll lose a screwmounting hole in the top deck.
HiH
Ed
Also measured the top deck, and the flex scetion between the rear top deck screws is also slightly longer than on the WE and X. Kinda between where they are on the WE and removing the third screw... see the picture to see whaty I mean
Basically, you can't use the X chassis plate with an orig or WE 416, without getting the new rear bulkheads (and the new centre bulkheads, and top deck in turn).
However, you CAN use the new motor mount on an original and a WE, but like mentioned previously, you'll lose a screwmounting hole in the top deck.
HiH
Ed
Yes the top deck is totally different compared with the WE top-deck.
I did a quick comparison and if not mistaken the rear bulkhead screw holes are identical to the WE's. I'm not sure now that the chassis are at home. Will check it again tonite. However, append below the comparison pictures (sorry for the poor quality as taken using a phone).
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...6/d8ac0062.jpg
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...6/2ee4519c.jpg
(Left: 416WE, Right: 416X)
12-11-2009, 02:21 AM
#7435
Any suggestions on how to keep a car from stepping out in a high speed sweeper around the middle, and on through to the end? It's otherwise stable around the rest of the track, but I can't drive the sweeper with any confidence at all. I've shaken down the whole car looking for something bent or broken, and tried all kinds of setup stuff. I wonder if less ackermann (5mm currently) would help?
i ran lipo battery
12-11-2009, 08:00 AM
#7436
Ed,
Just checked both chassis (X & WE) and all the mounting holes are identical.
There's slight diff, X has two extra holes on the front, 1-2mm wider on the front left / right sides and front pulley hole slightly longer (so belt won't touch).
So, if u wanna use the 416X chassis on ur 416 and / or WE, it's ok!
My guess is that Tamiya mantains the major design perhaps those whom are using the current 2 chassis may change theirs' to the X as production for the previous chassis could have ceased.
Cheerios to TAMIYA!
Now I'm wondering, should I change my WE to the X parts and give it a try or should I just finish installing the new car?
Just checked both chassis (X & WE) and all the mounting holes are identical.
There's slight diff, X has two extra holes on the front, 1-2mm wider on the front left / right sides and front pulley hole slightly longer (so belt won't touch).
So, if u wanna use the 416X chassis on ur 416 and / or WE, it's ok!
My guess is that Tamiya mantains the major design perhaps those whom are using the current 2 chassis may change theirs' to the X as production for the previous chassis could have ceased.
Cheerios to TAMIYA!
Now I'm wondering, should I change my WE to the X parts and give it a try or should I just finish installing the new car?
12-11-2009, 09:17 AM
#7437
Ed,
Just checked both chassis (X & WE) and all the mounting holes are identical.
There's slight diff, X has two extra holes on the front, 1-2mm wider on the front left / right sides and front pulley hole slightly longer (so belt won't touch).
So, if u wanna use the 416X chassis on ur 416 and / or WE, it's ok!
My guess is that Tamiya mantains the major design perhaps those whom are using the current 2 chassis may change theirs' to the X as production for the previous chassis could have ceased.
Cheerios to TAMIYA!
Now I'm wondering, should I change my WE to the X parts and give it a try or should I just finish installing the new car?
Just checked both chassis (X & WE) and all the mounting holes are identical.
There's slight diff, X has two extra holes on the front, 1-2mm wider on the front left / right sides and front pulley hole slightly longer (so belt won't touch).
So, if u wanna use the 416X chassis on ur 416 and / or WE, it's ok!
My guess is that Tamiya mantains the major design perhaps those whom are using the current 2 chassis may change theirs' to the X as production for the previous chassis could have ceased.
Cheerios to TAMIYA!
Now I'm wondering, should I change my WE to the X parts and give it a try or should I just finish installing the new car?
Ed
12-11-2009, 11:47 AM
#7438
The TRF website had the Corey Lewis setup on it but for some reason it's not posted now ??? I guess the biggest tip I can give anyone is negative expo may need to be used, the track is very high bite and most cars feel twitchy.
Like I said, I'm glad to give my setup out to anyone, but I'm still willing to help those who would rather I lie about how it tends to drive.
Like I said, I'm glad to give my setup out to anyone, but I'm still willing to help those who would rather I lie about how it tends to drive.
12-11-2009, 05:10 PM
#7439
Tech Adept
Remember the 415, the lower deck had backward compability from the MRE all the way back to the original 415, just a couple of extra holes added. The 416 is designed the same way. As long as the car is called 416 the lower deck will be backward compatible. Xray on the other hand...
12-11-2009, 05:21 PM
#7440
i know this my be a dumb question but has anyone tried using a 416 lower deck with 415 or will it not work.