4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
11-20-2009, 12:39 PM
#7171
Atomic ECS
I got my ECS's and finally installed them for some hard testing.
I took them apart and gave them a grease job (AWS) and re-assembled with blue loc-tite on the grub screws. So far the pro and cons are, they seem to be in general good quality but the grub screws are very thin walled and its very easy to round them out if your not careful. Once I had them back togeather I took it one step further and shrink wrapped the carnden unit to keep the pins in, incase the grub screws didn't hold. (This is the same as what LOSI does with their units). I greased the cushion pins and put the whole thing togeather.
When bench testing the car it seemed to have excessive drag? Back apart only to find that, (my car has been running using Xray steering hubs) the Xray hubs are just the slightest amount wider than the stock Tamiya ones and the flash of the hub was enough to catch the hexes when rotating giving it a notchey feel. So I installed the stock Tamiya pieces, which I can tell you, I have destroyed a lot of.
On track performance, although not any faster on our track, they are definately smoother, as my car had a noticable chatter in the very tight turns that was now gone. I also found that I could dial a little more total throw into the car and still have no chatter issues.
They are shorter that what I would prefer to run (46mm) as I fear for the outdrives. Since the ones I had in the car where pretty worn I opted to change them out, but I had a set from a 415 that I ordered by accident, so I figured I would try them just in case they couldn't take the shorter units. The 415 outdrives are made of white materail not black and just marginally shorter than the stock 416 units, so I had to file the outer aluminum collars down a touch for this all to work. The 415 outdrives seem to be a little beefier than the 416 and a little more pliable, as I have had no breaking issues yet, and I have challenged the boards a couple of times, that would have exploded the stock 416/42 setup.
The only thing to really watch out for on these units is the pin end that plunges the outdrive cup. As I was putting the car back togeather I had no shocks on the front and was rotating the spool and lifting the suspension arms and as I was rotating the whole assembly it would actually lock the suspension momentarily, the cause of this was the pin was just wide enough to catch the inside of the aluminum collar at extreme angles. I just filed a little off each end of the pin and checked again, now there was no more locking up.
Are they worth it? For sure they are smoother, but no noticeable time gain was found.
I took them apart and gave them a grease job (AWS) and re-assembled with blue loc-tite on the grub screws. So far the pro and cons are, they seem to be in general good quality but the grub screws are very thin walled and its very easy to round them out if your not careful. Once I had them back togeather I took it one step further and shrink wrapped the carnden unit to keep the pins in, incase the grub screws didn't hold. (This is the same as what LOSI does with their units). I greased the cushion pins and put the whole thing togeather.
When bench testing the car it seemed to have excessive drag? Back apart only to find that, (my car has been running using Xray steering hubs) the Xray hubs are just the slightest amount wider than the stock Tamiya ones and the flash of the hub was enough to catch the hexes when rotating giving it a notchey feel. So I installed the stock Tamiya pieces, which I can tell you, I have destroyed a lot of.
On track performance, although not any faster on our track, they are definately smoother, as my car had a noticable chatter in the very tight turns that was now gone. I also found that I could dial a little more total throw into the car and still have no chatter issues.
They are shorter that what I would prefer to run (46mm) as I fear for the outdrives. Since the ones I had in the car where pretty worn I opted to change them out, but I had a set from a 415 that I ordered by accident, so I figured I would try them just in case they couldn't take the shorter units. The 415 outdrives are made of white materail not black and just marginally shorter than the stock 416 units, so I had to file the outer aluminum collars down a touch for this all to work. The 415 outdrives seem to be a little beefier than the 416 and a little more pliable, as I have had no breaking issues yet, and I have challenged the boards a couple of times, that would have exploded the stock 416/42 setup.
The only thing to really watch out for on these units is the pin end that plunges the outdrive cup. As I was putting the car back togeather I had no shocks on the front and was rotating the spool and lifting the suspension arms and as I was rotating the whole assembly it would actually lock the suspension momentarily, the cause of this was the pin was just wide enough to catch the inside of the aluminum collar at extreme angles. I just filed a little off each end of the pin and checked again, now there was no more locking up.
Are they worth it? For sure they are smoother, but no noticeable time gain was found.
11-20-2009, 12:41 PM
#7172
Artwork ygpm
11-22-2009, 06:56 PM
#7174
ECS update
Entire day of racing and beating down walls and no pin or outdrive issues, I'm either lucky or it safe to say they are ok to use. (17.5)
Artwork, tried your setup, not the ticket for our track, thanks anyways.
Artwork, tried your setup, not the ticket for our track, thanks anyways.
11-22-2009, 07:10 PM
#7175
Tech Initiate
i love mine i just put a tekin 17.5 in it and ran a race agains a buddy who has a 415 msxx MR and destroyed his! in the turns i could hold so much more speed and his car just felt lose and slugish and we had practily the exact same cars(except tune)
since im new does anyone know what parts i should keep on hand? i have a full screw set now. thanks
since im new does anyone know what parts i should keep on hand? i have a full screw set now. thanks
11-22-2009, 10:38 PM
#7177
11-23-2009, 03:38 AM
#7178
Hi,
witch retainer (cup ?) using with HPI gold & silver 14mm spring ?
Tamiya alu are too small and spring does not fit very well....
Thx
witch retainer (cup ?) using with HPI gold & silver 14mm spring ?
Tamiya alu are too small and spring does not fit very well....
Thx
11-23-2009, 04:17 AM
#7179
Tech Addict
11-23-2009, 06:15 AM
#7180
I had the worst weekend for the short time I have the 416WE. The first weekend the car was drivable but week after week the car became progressively worst, my rear end keep swinging out on the 180 deg corners, I tried different springs, oil's and setup and no help, it happen mostly on power exiting corners.
My setup: Front spring white/50 oil
Spool
No shims under arm pivots
4mm shims under camber links
1.5 camber
1ds block up front
Rear spring Blue/40 oil
No shims under arm pivots
Start with 4mm shims under camber links
2.0 camber
1e and xa rear.
I tried softer spring and oils and to no avail the car still spin out.
My setup: Front spring white/50 oil
Spool
No shims under arm pivots
4mm shims under camber links
1.5 camber
1ds block up front
Rear spring Blue/40 oil
No shims under arm pivots
Start with 4mm shims under camber links
2.0 camber
1e and xa rear.
I tried softer spring and oils and to no avail the car still spin out.
11-23-2009, 07:34 AM
#7182
Please post your entire setup... And have you checked the car for anything broken or bent ? Hingepins etc ?
I had the worst weekend for the short time I have the 416WE. The first weekend the car was drivable but week after week the car became progressively worst, my rear end keep swinging out on the 180 deg corners, I tried different springs, oil's and setup and no help, it happen mostly on power exiting corners.
My setup: Front spring white/50 oil
Spool
No shims under arm pivots
4mm shims under camber links
1.5 camber
1ds block up front
Rear spring Blue/40 oil
No shims under arm pivots
Start with 4mm shims under camber links
2.0 camber
1e and xa rear.
I tried softer spring and oils and to no avail the car still spin out.
My setup: Front spring white/50 oil
Spool
No shims under arm pivots
4mm shims under camber links
1.5 camber
1ds block up front
Rear spring Blue/40 oil
No shims under arm pivots
Start with 4mm shims under camber links
2.0 camber
1e and xa rear.
I tried softer spring and oils and to no avail the car still spin out.
11-23-2009, 08:01 AM
#7183
Gotta try anything once, could have been the ticket. Nothing really wrong with the setup, but our track is very small and tight compared to what you guys have, so I needed a more responsive setup. Your setup was easy to drive and consistant, but I couldn't drive the car as hard as what our track requires, to slow a transition in the tight corners, but I can see where this would be a nice setup for a flowing type of track. Thanks for the setup though.
11-23-2009, 08:03 AM
#7184
I had the worst weekend for the short time I have the 416WE. The first weekend the car was drivable but week after week the car became progressively worst, my rear end keep swinging out on the 180 deg corners, I tried different springs, oil's and setup and no help, it happen mostly on power exiting corners.
My setup: Front spring white/50 oil
Spool
No shims under arm pivots
4mm shims under camber links
1.5 camber
1ds block up front
Rear spring Blue/40 oil
No shims under arm pivots
Start with 4mm shims under camber links
2.0 camber
1e and xa rear.
I tried softer spring and oils and to no avail the car still spin out.
My setup: Front spring white/50 oil
Spool
No shims under arm pivots
4mm shims under camber links
1.5 camber
1ds block up front
Rear spring Blue/40 oil
No shims under arm pivots
Start with 4mm shims under camber links
2.0 camber
1e and xa rear.
I tried softer spring and oils and to no avail the car still spin out.
11-23-2009, 09:42 AM
#7185
Tomorrow should be a good day 
Someone please update the thread title to Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
Someone please update the thread title to Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
