Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#3016
This will undoubtedly sound pretty dumb, but...
If you're using one of the Square lower bumpers, keep an eye on it and make sure it's not rubbing on the racing surface. They tend to bend downward with use and impacts, and will eventually begin to rub. If your car stops turning after a front impact, this could be the culprit. :-)
If you're using one of the Square lower bumpers, keep an eye on it and make sure it's not rubbing on the racing surface. They tend to bend downward with use and impacts, and will eventually begin to rub. If your car stops turning after a front impact, this could be the culprit. :-)
#3017
so dose anyone have the carpet set up for Vages for the 416???
anyone???
anyone???
#3018
I have bought a second hand 416. The previous owner has made the conversion to the shorter A-arms and has build it with the Jilles groskamp-setup.
He has never driven the car and sold it with a lot of parts ... my luck.
However, ... this is my first Carbon-chassis-car and I still have a lot to learn.
So I was considering to rebuild the car to a more standard set-up, just to have a good start from there, as I am far from an experienced driver-mechanic and have a lot to learn on how to tune a car.
I will be competing in stock-competitions (27T-motors) on carpet track with medium grip so I thought the car would better equiped with the One-way. I prefer driving a One-way over a direct coupling (which we seem to call a spool over here).
Should I start with the manual-setup? Or is there a (short-Arms) set-up that will be a better as starting position?
I 've lookd into the set-up-section on http://www.thard.co.uk/ and found the setup from Chris Vanderhagen, which also uses a One-way for his 19T-setup.
Would this be a not-so-critical set-up, good to start with?
A friend of mine (Grooveman), with loads of experience told me I'd better begin with the manual-setup, so I will follow his advice, but it would be nice to have a back-up plan (as this friend is not always arround when tuning my car ) and since I have the parts for the short-arms-conversion anyway?
So ... all advice much appreciated!
He has never driven the car and sold it with a lot of parts ... my luck.
However, ... this is my first Carbon-chassis-car and I still have a lot to learn.
So I was considering to rebuild the car to a more standard set-up, just to have a good start from there, as I am far from an experienced driver-mechanic and have a lot to learn on how to tune a car.
I will be competing in stock-competitions (27T-motors) on carpet track with medium grip so I thought the car would better equiped with the One-way. I prefer driving a One-way over a direct coupling (which we seem to call a spool over here).
Should I start with the manual-setup? Or is there a (short-Arms) set-up that will be a better as starting position?
I 've lookd into the set-up-section on http://www.thard.co.uk/ and found the setup from Chris Vanderhagen, which also uses a One-way for his 19T-setup.
Would this be a not-so-critical set-up, good to start with?
A friend of mine (Grooveman), with loads of experience told me I'd better begin with the manual-setup, so I will follow his advice, but it would be nice to have a back-up plan (as this friend is not always arround when tuning my car ) and since I have the parts for the short-arms-conversion anyway?
So ... all advice much appreciated!
#3019
Mostly likely, you will be unhappy with the manual set up and end up needing to make a number of changes. You have to understand what the changes you make will do to the car in order to make it handle better. So, if you are most concerned with learning, then I'd say to go with the manual setup.
#3020
Super Moderator
iTrader: (2)
Mostly likely, you will be unhappy with the manual set up and end up needing to make a number of changes. You have to understand what the changes you make will do to the car in order to make it handle better. So, if you are most concerned with learning, then I'd say to go with the manual setup.
#3021
mmm, ok, but WHAT short-Arms-set-up should I use then, as a starting point.
#3024
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Edit: just saw the 60/50 oil split which explains the ackerman. 50/50 with the 3mm ackerman would also work pretty well
#3025
Sohlman, CraigM, thx guys,
I've been asking these questions on different fora. You guys are the first to give me some useful, to-the-point answers
I will definitely try this set-up as a starting point.
but as I am still learning ... could you explain me how one can change ackerman? I am not able to find anything about "ackermann" o the set-up-sheet but I guess, if I learned correctly, this is done by switching the steering rod-connection to a different hole on the steering block?
About "5mm hex hub". I only have the standard 4mm Hex wheel hubs. I guess I could use those and add a spacer? ... Or just use the 4mm, as CraigM says
Also, I learned from some veteran tamiya-racers, that the Tamiya-shocks should be 62mm long, so I always build them that way on my previous TA05. Why did you choose to make them 61.5mm? Does it make a (big) difference?
And then I have yet another question. The building manual mentions you should not spray the belts with some products. But somewhere else I've read that it helps to spray some WD40 on a cloth and to wipe the belts with it and that it helps to smoothing the belts.
My belts are brand new. I thougt it might help to loosen them up or is it something that has to be avoided?
@ Sohlman:
How did you add the extra weight on the Lipo? As a lead sheet on top of the Lipo?
Did you use some more lead or weight in other positions on the chassis?
What brand of oil were you using? Was it Losi oil?
and ... if I might still add these questions
Do you have this set-up-sheet also in a greater resolution?
How do you make this (very clear) digital set-up-sheets?
Again, THX! for previous advice ...
and thx in advance for helping me out with my other questions.
I've been asking these questions on different fora. You guys are the first to give me some useful, to-the-point answers
I will definitely try this set-up as a starting point.
but as I am still learning ... could you explain me how one can change ackerman? I am not able to find anything about "ackermann" o the set-up-sheet but I guess, if I learned correctly, this is done by switching the steering rod-connection to a different hole on the steering block?
About "5mm hex hub". I only have the standard 4mm Hex wheel hubs. I guess I could use those and add a spacer? ... Or just use the 4mm, as CraigM says
Also, I learned from some veteran tamiya-racers, that the Tamiya-shocks should be 62mm long, so I always build them that way on my previous TA05. Why did you choose to make them 61.5mm? Does it make a (big) difference?
And then I have yet another question. The building manual mentions you should not spray the belts with some products. But somewhere else I've read that it helps to spray some WD40 on a cloth and to wipe the belts with it and that it helps to smoothing the belts.
My belts are brand new. I thougt it might help to loosen them up or is it something that has to be avoided?
@ Sohlman:
How did you add the extra weight on the Lipo? As a lead sheet on top of the Lipo?
Did you use some more lead or weight in other positions on the chassis?
What brand of oil were you using? Was it Losi oil?
and ... if I might still add these questions
Do you have this set-up-sheet also in a greater resolution?
How do you make this (very clear) digital set-up-sheets?
Again, THX! for previous advice ...
and thx in advance for helping me out with my other questions.
Last edited by Low_E; 10-19-2008 at 01:13 AM.
#3027
Tech Master
iTrader: (92)
@ Sohlman:
How did you add the extra weight on the Lipo? As a lead sheet on top of the Lipo?
Did you use some more lead or weight in other positions on the chassis?
What brand of oil were you using? Was it Losi oil?
and ... if I might still add these questions
Do you have this set-up-sheet also in a greater resolution?
How do you make this (very clear) digital set-up-sheets?
Again, THX! for previous advice ...
and thx in advance for helping me out with my other questions.
How did you add the extra weight on the Lipo? As a lead sheet on top of the Lipo?
Did you use some more lead or weight in other positions on the chassis?
What brand of oil were you using? Was it Losi oil?
and ... if I might still add these questions
Do you have this set-up-sheet also in a greater resolution?
How do you make this (very clear) digital set-up-sheets?
Again, THX! for previous advice ...
and thx in advance for helping me out with my other questions.
#3028
and how do you attach this lipo-tray into the 416? With tape?
#3030
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Low_E, ackerman is best adjusted by adding or removing spacers from the inner steering rod ball mounts. More spacers = greater ackerman effect. You can change where the balls are on the knuckle but from what I've heard there is a huge difference between the two holes, plus I've never seen any setups using the front one - my square knuckles have a 3rd hole inbetween but I've never tried that either. Don't spray anything on your belts either, I've had my car for months now and I'm still on the original belts, I just put them in and went racing.
Beserk is your track carpet or asphalt? I'd start with 3 degrees and go from there, I race on a pretty tight asphalt track and 3 degrees is just right
Beserk is your track carpet or asphalt? I'd start with 3 degrees and go from there, I race on a pretty tight asphalt track and 3 degrees is just right