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Old 02-23-2008, 03:55 PM   #1441
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not same have different
Are you saying the 416 blocks are different to the 415 ??

Thanks
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Old 02-23-2008, 04:27 PM   #1442
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Originally Posted by andyuk99 View Post
Are you saying the 416 blocks are different to the 415 ??

Thanks
yes but Toe-in size no different
& after maybe have new sus. mount
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Old 02-24-2008, 07:41 AM   #1443
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Are there any parts i need to think about buying before i go racing my 416? Got the ti and alloy screw set but are there any other option parts that might be needed or come in usefull? I used to have a mass of 415 parts but i sold most of them.

What parts are worth carrying in my parts box? Wishbones, hubs are needed but anything else?

Also anyone able to advise me what the best brushless 27t speedo and motor setup is at the moment?
Anyone?
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Old 02-24-2008, 09:30 AM   #1444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
What parts are worth carrying in my parts box? Wishbones, hubs are needed but anything else?
I'd say anything suspension-related.. in addition to arms, knuckles and C-hubs, keep a few spare kingpin sets, since a bad crash can either rip them out and lose them on the track, or simply snap them..

5x10 bearings, though more durable than the 5x9's, they will still have the chance to sieze up after a bad whack..

Belts, you never know what can happen..

What camber and steering links do you have? If aluminum, you'll likely want Ti.. have some spare ball cups handy as well in case some get too loose..

Beyond that, not too much else I think..
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Old 02-24-2008, 01:43 PM   #1445
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Hi In response to the question re toe blocks I have been usung the standard 415 ones quite happily alongside the 416 ones they match up ok no problems encountered.
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Old 02-24-2008, 03:00 PM   #1446
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Are you saying the 416 blocks are different to the 415 ??

Thanks
Likely the only difference is that the 416 blocks can be flipped upside down like the X blocks, while the original 415 A/B/C/D's weren't made to, so you needed the bridged types for the front rear..
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Old 02-24-2008, 04:34 PM   #1447
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Originally Posted by Jam-ehz View Post
Likely the only difference is that the 416 blocks can be flipped upside down like the X blocks, while the original 415 A/B/C/D's weren't made to, so you needed the bridged types for the front rear..
Bridged types won't fit the front rear of the 416, as the bridge was designed to be used with a central belt on the 415, not the offset one of the 416.

Otherwise your correct. The 416 blocks only reuire 3mm of shims to be at the correct height flipped, and no material needs to be removed.
You can flip the 415 blocks, but need to use 5mm of shims, and possibly remove some material from the block to allow the shims to sit flat. I had to resort to this this weekend, as I bent my 416 D block that I was running on the front rear. Now I need to get a new one...

Cheers
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Old 02-24-2008, 09:47 PM   #1448
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ATTN: Those of you who have raced the TCS before....

What are some of the more popular body choices for the GT1 class? I've never had to run any bodies other than a Dodge Stratus, Alfa Romeo, and the new Mazdas. Is there one body that handles head and shoulders above the rest? Tamiya bodies are foreign to me...

And what tire (model, part #) is really the best slick tire that Tamiya makes? I think I've run into two different ones, but i'm unsure as to which ones I should order...

Thx... The new car (416) looks great. I can't wait to drive it...
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Old 02-24-2008, 09:57 PM   #1449
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I ran an NSX in GT2. I saw a lot of them being used at Trackside in WI.

Also heard that the AMG Mercedes is good.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPJS3&P=7

Type A's with soft inserts worked good at the track. (Carpet)

Here is a pic I took of all the cars so you can see the bodies being used.

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Old 02-24-2008, 10:53 PM   #1450
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Pretty much right, plus, I've used the Ferrari 430 & Audi A4 DTM, & liked those too. From what I could tell, the Audi seemed to steer a bit more aggressively than the others I've used, while the NSX was the most forgiving of them(can create a wee bit of push at speed, but I kind of like that, makes it easy to maintain the line I want, while the Audi made my car feel a bit more "darty", & while the Ferrari was balanced, it didn't really make much actual downforce, but maintains a decent, neutral feel, IMO). As for tires, that depends on the surface you're racing on & the temps at the time. On high-grip carpet, you'll get plenty of grip from Type A's, though wear is not that good with them, & B3's might also work ok(& should work for longer, too, but on really slick surfaces, you might have trouble with those), but on asphalt(& especially in spring-like temps or higher), I'd stick with B3's, they are THE tire to use in Memphis, & I suspect the same might be true at Aliso Viejo. Outdoors & in warm weather, A's will get greasy REALLY quickly, beacuse they'll overheat fast, but B3's will work in a good range of temps(we've even gotten use from them when the track temp was as high as 122degrees F, but we were definitely pushing it). As for inserts, I like HPI's, mostly reds in all of them, though sometimes you might want to go a little harder(but I can't remember which ones are next up from them, but I do know that reds are about right in the middle of HPI's range).....
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Old 02-25-2008, 09:40 AM   #1451
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Great question man. I'm found out on friday that the TCS is this weekend so I'm trying to gather up everything that I need: Body and Tires. I actually can't find any shop that has them in stock. I'm looking for B3 tires and the 2005 NSX body. If anyone can find them let me know.

I'm really excited for the race but really nrevous because I just finished my 416 on friday so I don't have any practice on it. GT1 here I come.
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Old 02-25-2008, 01:12 PM   #1452
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Thanks for the responses guys... My TCS race isn't until June (NorCal Hobbies, Union City, CA) so I have plenty of time to try and figure out all this stuff. Now I have a good idea that should get me in the ballpark and I can just test and fine tune this thing. Gotta find some tires and bodies though... they seem to be hot commodities.

TCS rules say everything needs to be Tamiya (except screws). Does this include pinion gears/wheels/servo savers?
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Old 02-25-2008, 01:23 PM   #1453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickyFingaz View Post
Thanks for the responses guys... My TCS race isn't until June (NorCal Hobbies, Union City, CA) so I have plenty of time to try and figure out all this stuff. Now I have a good idea that should get me in the ballpark and I can just test and fine tune this thing. Gotta find some tires and bodies though... they seem to be hot commodities.

TCS rules say everything needs to be Tamiya (except screws). Does this include pinion gears/wheels/servo savers?
RIMS have to be tamiya. servo saver and pinion/spur gears are open. inserts are open to any company also. Tires have to be Tamiya.
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Old 02-25-2008, 10:30 PM   #1454
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Gotchya...

One last thing. And this is kinda directed at TryHard (or anyone else) because he edited the Tamiya Setup sheet to include droop:

From which part of the arm(s) are you measuring downstops? The front arms have the nub for the grub screw that protrudes... and both the front and rear arms have a curvature to them that kinda makes it hard to measure.

It's like starting all over again from scratch with me... I'm clueless :P Thanks to anyone who decides to shed some light on a clueless soul.
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Old 02-26-2008, 12:42 AM   #1455
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I tend to measure droop under the arm, rather than the hub. I'll tend to take it from the front most point on the front arm, and rear most point on the rear (just keeps the measurement consistent).

Just measure until the arms just touch the gauge, I use a yokomo one, which is quite handy as it also does ride height

HiH
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