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Old 02-09-2008, 10:02 AM   #1306
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Are any of you guys running 5 cells on your 416 and could share some photos? I am trying to figure out the best way to align my banana plugs without them touching the chassis...

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Old 02-09-2008, 11:55 AM   #1307
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anyone have this annoying clicking sound coming from the center pully? it only happens when the center pully is moving. its like that from day one when it hits the track and its getting more and more noticable. i rebuilded the car almost 4 times in this whole period but it doesnt seem to solve the problem. i cant see anything hitting against each other as well. there was some place but i shimmed it out, it got better for a while (maybe placebo effect) but the sound is back again. asked the local hobby shop, he doesnt have a clue whats wrong as well.
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Old 02-09-2008, 12:05 PM   #1308
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anyone have this annoying clicking sound coming from the center pully? it only happens when the center pully is moving. its like that from day one when it hits the track and its getting more and more noticable. i rebuilded the car almost 4 times in this whole period but it doesnt seem to solve the problem. i cant see anything hitting against each other as well. there was some place but i shimmed it out, it got better for a while (maybe placebo effect) but the sound is back again. asked the local hobby shop, he doesnt have a clue whats wrong as well.
Check your spur and pinion, run a knife blade through all the teeth.
I had a similar issue recently, turned out there was a tiny amount of stuff stuck in the spur gear, and single grain of sand stuck in the pinion... tiny amounts but plenty to cause a noise..

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Old 02-09-2008, 12:43 PM   #1309
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its causing the sound even when the motor is not hooked up. when i roll it on the floor, the sound comes on. it rather high pitch clicking, it like taking two screws and hitting the head against each other... thats the sound i get.
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Old 02-09-2008, 02:23 PM   #1310
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its causing the sound even when the motor is not hooked up. when i roll it on the floor, the sound comes on. it rather high pitch clicking, it like taking two screws and hitting the head against each other... thats the sound i get.
I think it might be coming from the rear diff, the plastic cups on the rear shafts are wearing out causing a bit of free play.

To check, remove the rear shafts from the diff and roll it on the floor, see if the noise is still there.
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Old 02-09-2008, 04:28 PM   #1311
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That clicking is from the way the pulley is held on to the center shaft. The rectangular shape starts to wear as you drive the car, creating play. You can put a small amount of shoegoo in there and that clicking should go away. Shoegoo is not that strong on metal, so you won't have to worry.
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Old 02-09-2008, 04:30 PM   #1312
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Alright ... I figured out why I keep loosing teeth on my Spur. I run LRP 3.5 brushless and according to manual, I try to set a gear ratio of 10.5+ (my local track is fairly small) so with a 105T Spur, I used a 21T pinion, and I finally realized that because the pinion is so small, I could not get a close enough mesh because I have already pushed the mesh as far as I could and the motor mount just wouldn't let me get closer!

Oh well, I am now off to the stores to pick up a 120T to see if that will help. I also talked to some guys at the track and they suggested that one way to set mesh is to hold the pinion steady, rotate the spur, and the spur should move just very little. Too much will mean it's too loose.

So much for my weekend run ... sob.
I suggest 48pitch is better at those powers.
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Old 02-09-2008, 05:15 PM   #1313
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jimmy,

what charger are you using to maintain your lipo packs btw?
I use the Team Orion Avionics charger set to 5000mah/5amp. However, I'm considering getting the Team CheckPoint charger since it will charge up to 10amp. The Orion only goes up to 5amp. It's nice and portable though. Simple to use. Lipos are basically my practice setup. I will get going back to racing 6cells this weekend. So it's back to my Frontline charger for that duty.

Bigbutstupid, I get the same sound. Even with no motor or axles hooked up. I think it's what Redbones is saying about the pulley adapter on the center shaft.
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Old 02-09-2008, 11:11 PM   #1314
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I suggest 48pitch is better at those powers.
Has anyone tried the larger Spurs? I calculated that I could get the following to get to the same gear ratio, how do you pick which on is better?

Spur = 110
Pinion = 22
Gear ratio = 10.3 (this is the recommended setting for LRP3.5)

Spur = 115
Pinion = 23
Gear ratio = 10.3

Spur = 120
Pinion = 24
Gear ratio = 10.3

I presume the 110/22 is better because the motor will get less hot?

Anyone else has experience with the larger spurs?

Help...
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Old 02-09-2008, 11:14 PM   #1315
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I think 108 is the largest spur you can fit without modifying the chassis.
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Old 02-09-2008, 11:15 PM   #1316
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I suggest 48pitch is better at those powers.
Hmmm... I am looking for a gearing of 8.9 to 10.3 so I don't think 48P will work since I will need a much smaller pinion which may be a problem with the mesh, but thanks for the suggestion.

Last edited by bboy; 02-09-2008 at 11:33 PM.
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Old 02-09-2008, 11:20 PM   #1317
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48pitch will be just fine for mod motors. Especially if you have trouble stripping out gears. It won't really change the car. It'll just be a little different when gearing it. Since 48* has bigger teeth, when you go up or down a tooth on the pinion, your gear ratio will change greater than if you were using 64*. Hope this helps....
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Old 02-09-2008, 11:36 PM   #1318
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So here is an example... The kit spur is a 105 64* gear. If you want to switch to a 48* gear of the same size, you would need a 78 or 79 tooth 48* spur. So for you to get your 8.9 to 10.3 ratios, you would need pinions 15 to 18. 15 tooth pinion may sound small. But it's the same size as a 20 tooth 64* pinion. Hope this helps...
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Old 02-09-2008, 11:38 PM   #1319
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So here is an example... The kit spur is a 105 64* gear. If you want to switch to a 48* gear of the same size, you would need a 78 or 79 tooth 48* spur. So for you to get your 8.9 to 10.3 ratios, you would need pinions 15 to 18. 15 tooth pinion may sound small. But it's the same size as a 20 tooth 64* pinion. Hope this helps...
I see. Got it, thanks for the feedback. Let me try the 64P first since I just ran a quick calculation and like you said, I have way fewer gearing options witih 48P. Lets see if this will help take care of the problem.

Thanks a much!

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Old 02-09-2008, 11:40 PM   #1320
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its causing the sound even when the motor is not hooked up. when i roll it on the floor, the sound comes on. it rather high pitch clicking, it like taking two screws and hitting the head against each other... thats the sound i get.
I did have this problem too initially in my test runs but after I rebuilt the rear diffs (and also tightened it up a bit), the noise is gone.

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