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Old 02-04-2008, 08:31 PM   #1246
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Nope, a standard D block can't be flipped... but the ones included with the 416 can be (they are the same as the X-series).

The D-Bridges don't fit...

ok, thanks. is there a part number for the new d block?
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Old 02-04-2008, 08:34 PM   #1247
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Yes, I am running the 3Racing chubs. They are only like... less than $12 a pair from RCMarket. You have to shim differently above the spindle. I think I am using a 1mm shim. They are maybe alittle more sloppy than the stock ones. The carbon ones just break to damn easy. Even a simple side slap from another car seems to crack them. That's why I switched. I'll post a pic soon.
just curious, since the carbon ones break too easy, have you tried the non-carbon ones? are they any better? tryin to figure out what parts to get.
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Old 02-04-2008, 08:56 PM   #1248
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Corally should copy the 416's diff. :-D The diff in this car may actually be the biggest (and most pleasant) surprise of all.

I'm looking forward to racing the 416 again. I had it dialed at our local track, but moved out of state, and get to mix it up with a new bunch of guys out here. Seems like I might be racing on some asphalt when it warms up. That should be interesting, I can barely walk across a parking lot without tripping.

Jilles, if you're out there, any thoughts about how the car did on foams at Snowbirds? Did you guys use any special thicker parts? Mind posting your setup as a starting point for some of us? I'm gonna build up a second 416 for foams when I feel like some mind-numbing R/C action.
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Old 02-05-2008, 12:22 AM   #1249
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just curious, since the carbon ones break too easy, have you tried the non-carbon ones? are they any better? tryin to figure out what parts to get.
No, I never tried the plastic chubs. I may give them a go later on if I don't like these aluminum ones. But we'll see. I have 2 sets of aluminum to destroy before I do anything else..
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Old 02-05-2008, 01:33 AM   #1250
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No, I never tried the plastic chubs. I may give them a go later on if I don't like these aluminum ones. But we'll see. I have 2 sets of aluminum to destroy before I do anything else..
Can anyone trll me who has the c-hubs in stock either aluminium or plastic
Many thanks
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Old 02-05-2008, 02:26 AM   #1251
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Can anyone trll me who has the c-hubs in stock either aluminium or plastic
Many thanks
Mark
RC Market has some in stock, only place I could find with the alloy ones.... I can't find the plastic ones for love nor money atm, end of feb for next batches I've seen

@Blueman; TBH, I don;t have a aclue at the moment how the rebound affects the car. I did mean to try it this weekend, but ended up using my spare set of shocks on my mini instead...
I'm deffiently going to try different built shocks next time out, one set with minimum, and one set with full rebound.

Oh, and I've updated my site now... moved the 415 stuff off the front page, and now will build it up with more reference to the 416

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Old 02-05-2008, 03:45 AM   #1252
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Hello Everyone,

I am new to this board and am getting back into the hobby

I just got the 416 and tested in on about 6 packs and found that I am already on my 3rd spur gear because I keep loosing teeth. Does anyone have any ideas why? I already placed a piece of paper between the mesh.

Also I tried toe-in, no-toe, and toe-out and found that the car is most stable with some toe-out (-0.5). I thought toe-in is the one that stablizes the car in straights, is this not true?

I am still learning about the car. It is great, I am loving it!
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Old 02-05-2008, 04:30 AM   #1253
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Hello Everyone,

I am new to this board and am getting back into the hobby

I just got the 416 and tested in on about 6 packs and found that I am already on my 3rd spur gear because I keep loosing teeth. Does anyone have any ideas why? I already placed a piece of paper between the mesh.

Also I tried toe-in, no-toe, and toe-out and found that the car is most stable with some toe-out (-0.5). I thought toe-in is the one that stablizes the car in straights, is this not true?

I am still learning about the car. It is great, I am loving it!
I tend to find that looser than a bit of paper is best. If you can rock the spur slightly in the teeth, thats best. It's a bit of fine tuning to get happy with it, but a single piece of paper sounds a bit to tight to me.
Also, make sure your motor screws are tight, really crank on them hard, so the motor cannot move at all.

HiH
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Old 02-05-2008, 04:34 AM   #1254
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I do not think paper between the mesh is a good idea. At least with 64 pitch. I tend to be very picky with my gear mesh. If you do mesh with paper, make sure the mesh is tight. Then take the paper out.

For me, I have to have a good view of the mesh between spur and pinion. I'll let them just touch. Then ever so slightly, loosen the mesh. I'll slightly tighen down the motor and wiggle the spur front to back checking out the mesh. I'll rotate the spur 1/8~1/4 turn and check mesh. 1/8~1/4 turn, check mesh. Keep doin it checking for a tight spot on the spur (checking for out of round or manufacturing tolerances). I'll make sure the spur does a complete revolution around checking the mesh. You want it to only move ever so slightly. Not a lot. But it must not be tight to where it moves the pinion. It's kind of harder to do with a brushless motor because the motor spins soo freely. So you may have to hold the pinion still while you check the mesh.

Easier to show somebody than write about. But I hope you get the picture.
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Old 02-05-2008, 05:14 AM   #1255
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Originally Posted by bboy View Post
Hello Everyone,

I am new to this board and am getting back into the hobby

I just got the 416 and tested in on about 6 packs and found that I am already on my 3rd spur gear because I keep loosing teeth. Does anyone have any ideas why? I already placed a piece of paper between the mesh.

Also I tried toe-in, no-toe, and toe-out and found that the car is most stable with some toe-out (-0.5). I thought toe-in is the one that stablizes the car in straights, is this not true?

I am still learning about the car. It is great, I am loving it!
I believe toe out stabalises the car on the straights but in the expense of cornering (understeer), and toe in adds alittle more agression to the car, which makes the car less steady around the corner.
i tried toe out from +2 to +.5, and i find +.5 is best for my asphalt track on foam tires.
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Old 02-05-2008, 10:32 AM   #1256
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As long as were talking about the front end, toe pointing either direction will stabilize the car down the straights because the scrubbing forces take up any slack in the steering. Running zero toe allows the front tires to float in the play zone resulting in instability.

Toe-in, in general, makes steering mild and is better for straight-line speed & high-speed turns because it reduces ackerman. Toe-out makes steering more aggressive and is better on low-speed turns due to increased ackerman.

In case you don't know what ackerman is, it's the difference in direction the front tires are pointing during a turn, caused by steering geometry. It's necessary because the inside tire follows a smaller radius than the outside tire. Of course the required difference depends on the speed and radius of the turn.

As for pinion mesh: I've heard the paper trick is specifically for 48-pitch gears. I guess it all depends on what type of paper you using (probably 20lb bond ). I believe the 416 comes with an 0.4 module spur (much closer to 64-pitch). On an early 90's Tamiya 0.4 pinion packet I have, it recommends using a piece of plastic bag (I assume grocery bag thickness) to set the mesh. I've found this only works well for cars that have the pinion teeth set VERY close to the motor can. Otherwise it's too easy motor to sit crooked while setting the mesh, making it much tighter than it should be once the motor screws are tightened...

I personally set pinions to similar method that JimmyMac described. That is by far ideal because most spurs are molded instead of machined. This automatically makes them imperfect (oval). You want to mesh loose enough that the gears don't growl, but tight enough that it doesn't knock off teeth.
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Old 02-05-2008, 10:56 AM   #1257
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ed if you break a c-hub can you use the msx one if not what about hotbodies
TIA
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Old 02-05-2008, 12:51 PM   #1258
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ed if you break a c-hub can you use the msx one if not what about hotbodies
TIA
Mark
Hey Mark,

Yeah, the 415 ones fit fine, hell the hole 415 suspension will fit. However, if you want to keep the suspension as close as possible to the 416, use HPI front hubs as well. If you use a 416 steering knuckle in the 415 c-hub, the axle will be 1mm higher, and this affects roll center and droop, among other things...also the steering links will be in a slightly different position. Using the HPI knuckle and 415 c-hub keeps it fairly close to the 416 geometry.

HiH
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Old 02-05-2008, 12:56 PM   #1259
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Hey Mark,

Yeah, the 415 ones fit fine, hell the hole 415 suspension will fit. However, if you want to keep the suspension as close as possible to the 416, use HPI front hubs as well. If you use a 416 steering knuckle in the 415 c-hub, the axle will be 1mm higher, and this affects roll center and droop, among other things...also the steering links will be in a slightly different position. Using the HPI knuckle and 415 c-hub keeps it fairly close to the 416 geometry.

HiH
Ed
Thanks Ed
Thats all I needed to know
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Old 02-05-2008, 01:19 PM   #1260
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Anyone try the Protoform 3.0 (All Purpose) body on this car yet? Good, Bad results?
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