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Old 01-25-2008, 03:56 AM   #1171
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Hey,

In terms of parts breakages, the car is pretty strong. Just grab a spare set of arms (although I'll come back to that in a minute), hubs (F&R) and steering knuckles. The c-hubs do seem a little more fragile now though, so best to grab a couple of sets, just in case.

Personally, I don't want for the aluminium front dogbones (seem to twist a bit easy), but the 46mm steel ones from the 415 fit (TAM51092) as long as you remove the o-ring from the 1way outdrive.

In terms of extras... pretty much everyone seems to be using the Short LWT arms now (TAM5928 2sets required, as 1F and 1R in a pack), regardless of surface. You just need to sand a little material from the right hand rear driveshaft blade to make sure it clears the diff nut, nothing serious.

Two of TAM53440 should cover all your springs needs (4 pairs of springs, red, yellow, blue, white), although HPI and Xray springs also fit.
1 of TAM53842 is a roll bar set (although it's labelled as for the TA05, fits the 416 and 415. Soft, med, & hard in the pack)

Other parts... some extra suspension blocks are a good idea. To start;
2x 1D (TAM51068)
1x 1XA (TAM53808)
1x1X (TAM51069)
1x1E (TAM53896)
should have you covered for a range of track width and toe-in settings.

Apart from that lot... well a spool as in my post above can be had, but thats it really.

HiH
Ed
you mean it doesnt come with roll bars???????

and whats this evo 5 suspension talk?
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Old 01-25-2008, 04:46 AM   #1172
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Evo5 suspension talk is simply the Short LWT arms... which were always better for carpet, but now also seem to be prefered outdoors too.

The kit comes with

Blue front springs, yellow rear.
Medium front bar, soft rear bar... which seems about right.

So far, in my experience, the car really seems to like the front end being stiffer than the rear, and it also seems to really like roll bars. On the 415, I never ran bars indoors, but the 416 seems to be work really well with them.

Oh, forgot to add in my previous post, that TAM53592 and TAM53593 (0,5 and 1mm shims for use under suspension blocks) are useful in allowing quick changes of roll centre, as they just slide in.

Ed
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Last edited by TryHard; 01-25-2008 at 04:50 AM. Reason: Suspension shim part #'s
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Old 01-25-2008, 01:51 PM   #1173
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When using the Short LWT arms, do I have to change the swing shafts to longer ones or can I continue to run the 44mm swing shafts front and rear?
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Old 01-25-2008, 02:07 PM   #1174
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shorter arms u may have to use shorter shafts, like I did no my 415mr
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Old 01-25-2008, 02:17 PM   #1175
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When using the Short LWT arms, do I have to change the swing shafts to longer ones or can I continue to run the 44mm swing shafts front and rear?
It depends on what blocks you are using. If you are using narrower blocks than D-XB in the rear you may need 42mm driveshafts. If you are using C-C and up in the front with spool and delrin outdrives it is best to use 46mm driveshafts.
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Old 01-25-2008, 02:19 PM   #1176
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It depends on what blocks you are using. If you are using narrower blocks than D-XB in the rear you may need 42mm driveshafts. If you are using C-C and up in the front with spool and delrin outdrives it is best to use 46mm driveshafts.
I am going to use D-D up front and XA-E in the rear. So I should be OK.
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Old 01-25-2008, 04:29 PM   #1177
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this new chaais looks sweeet
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Old 01-25-2008, 04:50 PM   #1178
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remember that if you use the short arms, you change the tread width and alter the way the car drives. Use longer suspension blocks to keep the tread the same to keep things in order as far as settings go.
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Old 01-26-2008, 03:54 AM   #1179
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Thanks brill ...

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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post

BTW, if any one is interested, the parts required for a spool for the 416 at the moment....

TAM3454401 Direct Holder (TRF415 MSX MRE Aluminium spool)
TAM9804268 Direct Cup (TRF415 MSX MRE Delrin outdrive)
TAM9804267 Direct Coupling (TRF415 MSX MRE outdrive sleeve)
TAM53500 2x9.8mm pins (2 required)
Also, not required, but useful if you like to quick change...
TAM54203 37t One-way pulley
TAM51278 K-Parts (has the bearing holders on)

Then mount the drive pulley to the other side of the spool, and ream out the 416 bearing holders for clearence of the sleeve. Pictures here... MRE Spool in the 416

Regards
Ed
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Old 01-27-2008, 11:13 AM   #1180
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shorter arms u may have to use shorter shafts, like I did no my 415mr
don't
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Old 01-28-2008, 02:27 AM   #1181
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Originally Posted by redbones View Post
remember that if you use the short arms, you change the tread width and alter the way the car drives. Use longer suspension blocks to keep the tread the same to keep things in order as far as settings go.
Whats this thread doing on the second page... tsk...

Anyway, don't mean to sound obtuse, but changing the track is kinda the point...

Basically changing the track width by a shorter suspesion arm is different to changing the track width by narrower blocks, as the hinge pins are then in a different position. I can prove that if you have a play around with the roll center calculator attached. Try adjusting just the arm type, and see how the setting changes.

And just to point out... the difference in length between the short and long arms is greater than any track change you can get by increasing the block width. There is 1.5mm and 1.0mm (F and R respectively) difference in pin lengths between the two types, so double thoose figures for overall track change (3mm F and 2mm R).
Changing from B/A to D/D increases the track by 1.25mm (versus 3mm shorter), XB/D to XA/E only increases the track by 0.5mm (versus 2mm shorter).

So even running the short arms with wide blocks (D/D and XA/E), you'll still be 1.75mm narrower on the front, and 1.5mm narrower on the rear, than if you were running kit blocks (B/A and XB/D) with long arms....

I'm not saying your wrong, hell I find the car works better with a wider block setup when running the short arms... I'm just saying, that effectively, it's more about getting the hinge pins in the right place for the best setting.

Regards
Ed
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File Type: zip TRF415 Advanced RC Calc.zip (18.2 KB, 134 views)
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Old 01-28-2008, 04:37 AM   #1182
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Whats this thread doing on the second page... tsk...

Anyway, don't mean to sound obtuse, but changing the track is kinda the point...

Basically changing the track width by a shorter suspesion arm is different to changing the track width by narrower blocks, as the hinge pins are then in a different position. I can prove that if you have a play around with the roll center calculator attached. Try adjusting just the arm type, and see how the setting changes.

And just to point out... the difference in length between the short and long arms is greater than any track change you can get by increasing the block width. There is 1.5mm and 1.0mm (F and R respectively) difference in pin lengths between the two types, so double thoose figures for overall track change (3mm F and 2mm R).
Changing from B/A to D/D increases the track by 1.25mm (versus 3mm shorter), XB/D to XA/E only increases the track by 0.5mm (versus 2mm shorter).

So even running the short arms with wide blocks (D/D and XA/E), you'll still be 1.75mm narrower on the front, and 1.5mm narrower on the rear, than if you were running kit blocks (B/A and XB/D) with long arms....

I'm not saying your wrong, hell I find the car works better with a wider block setup when running the short arms... I'm just saying, that effectively, it's more about getting the hinge pins in the right place for the best setting.

Regards
Ed
I love how much time you devote to the Tamiya Ed

This guy knows much more than a certain M R so pay attention its all for our help.
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Old 01-28-2008, 04:52 AM   #1183
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I love how much time you devote to the Tamiya Ed

This guy knows much more than a certain M R so pay attention its all for our help.
... yeah right... believe that, and you'll believe anything
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Old 01-28-2008, 08:49 AM   #1184
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Default L/R Balancing

How important is balancing the car left to right? I'm running brushless with an Orion 4800 LiPo and the car is light on the right side by quite a bit. I haven't mounted my transponder yet, but of course I'll mount it on the right side. I haven't weighed the car yet so I don't know if it's under weight, if it's not, should I add weight to balance it or just set tweek with the springs?
Thx
G
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Old 01-28-2008, 09:19 AM   #1185
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How important is balancing the car left to right? I'm running brushless with an Orion 4800 LiPo and the car is light on the right side by quite a bit. I haven't mounted my transponder yet, but of course I'll mount it on the right side. I haven't weighed the car yet so I don't know if it's under weight, if it's not, should I add weight to balance it or just set tweek with the springs?
Thx
G
Trust me, it'll be underweight The 4800 is about half the weight of an IB42 pack, so you'll probably need to add in the region of 100-150g of weight.

With my Carbon 3600's, I have 140g on the pack itself, and an extra 60g on the chassis. This is running 10.5 brushless (so heavier speedo, but lighter motor).
I find it best to mount the weight on the outside of the pack, as this also helps improve the side-side balance a bit.

Get it as close as you can, then tweak it on the springs... unfortuantly there isn't a lot of places to put weight to allow perfect balancing, but doesn't seem to affect the car.

HiH
Ed
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