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Old 02-01-2012, 11:36 AM   #10471
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I personally like the Tamiya Gear Diff Unit II the most, as it is smoother and less leaky (from my experience). But you may see increased wear on the blades when using the Tamiya diff instead of the Spec-R diff.
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Old 02-06-2012, 06:13 PM   #10472
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Default Toe Angle Rear Upright

Do the 51333 Rear Upright have a pre-set toe angle?
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Old 02-07-2012, 12:12 AM   #10473
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No they don't have a toe in angle as this is done using your suspensionmounts.

regards Roy
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Old 02-08-2012, 07:30 AM   #10474
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What would the difference in handeling be between using 1xa/1d on the rear of the car for a 2.5* toe vs using 1a/1d with 1* uprights to get 2.5* total toe? What i am trying to to is combat a loose condition going into the the turn. Thanks for any advice.
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:22 PM   #10475
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You will have a wider rear track which will likely make your car worse.

Try run anti dive up front or less rear droop
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:29 PM   #10476
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Thank you very much for the reply, I had a feeling that would be going in the wrong direction, but was confused. I'm running 1mm droop in the rear now, perhaps i will try the anti dive and see if that helps.
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:39 PM   #10477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
You will have a wider rear track which will likely make your car worse.

Try run anti dive up front or less rear droop
I always get confused with Anti dive.. The shim goes under the inner or outer block?
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:49 PM   #10478
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I always get confused with Anti dive.. The shim goes under the inner or outer block?
Anti-dive means the front of the arm points more downward than the rear. So this means adding shim to the front inner block to raise it up higher than the front out block. Pro-dive is the other way.
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Old 02-08-2012, 11:02 PM   #10479
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Originally Posted by JCarr View Post
Thank you very much for the reply, I had a feeling that would be going in the wrong direction, but was confused. I'm running 1mm droop in the rear now, perhaps i will try the anti dive and see if that helps.
If you post your full setup then I can suggest a few more things that might help
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Old 02-09-2012, 05:54 AM   #10480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
If you post your full setup then I can suggest a few more things that might help
Thanks, I don't have it written down, but things I can remember of the top of my head....

Front: 0 toe, c/c suspension blocks flat on chassis, blue assc. springs, 50wt oil, 1.5* camber, 4* caster.

Rear: 2.5* toe, 1xa/1d blocks flat on chassis, green assc. springs, 35wt oil, 1.5* camber

Tire: solaris med

Motor: navak ss 21.5 USGT class

Thanks for you time and thoughts.
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Old 02-09-2012, 06:20 AM   #10481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCarr View Post
Thanks, I don't have it written down, but things I can remember of the top of my head....

Front: 0 toe, c/c suspension blocks flat on chassis, blue assc. springs, 50wt oil, 1.5* camber, 4* caster.

Rear: 2.5* toe, 1xa/1d blocks flat on chassis, green assc. springs, 35wt oil, 1.5* camber

Tire: solaris med

Motor: navak ss 21.5 USGT class

Thanks for you time and thoughts.
I'm assuming this is for carpet:

Scrap the Associated Springs and weird oils. Go to Tamiya Blue and white and use something like 40wt all the way around. Go back to 3 degrees of rear toe.

Jilles Groskamp's Snowbirds 2010 setup is the best place to start for the 416X.
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Old 02-09-2012, 06:46 AM   #10482
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Yes it is on carpet, low/med bite. I'm not 100% sure on the front oil i would need to open the shock to check, but it is 50 or 40. I had the tamiya springs on it for a while and it was really hard to control, but that was a good while ago and I have changed quite a few things since then, I can try them again. I need to order the E and F blocks so i can get more toe in the rear or I could use the 1* uprights that i have.
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:01 AM   #10483
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Does anyone know the part number for the Tamiya White Springs?
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:11 AM   #10484
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Quote:
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Does anyone know the part number for the Tamiya White Springs?
RC On Road Tuned Spring Set - White
Item #49382
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Old 02-09-2012, 12:58 PM   #10485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCarr View Post
Thanks, I don't have it written down, but things I can remember of the top of my head....

Front: 0 toe, c/c suspension blocks flat on chassis, blue assc. springs, 50wt oil, 1.5* camber, 4* caster.

Rear: 2.5* toe, 1xa/1d blocks flat on chassis, green assc. springs, 35wt oil, 1.5* camber

Tire: solaris med

Motor: navak ss 21.5 USGT class

Thanks for you time and thoughts.
Agree with Dane's comments, tho 2.5deg toe is fine for slower classes. What body do you run and what shims do you have on the bulkheads and uprights?

In addition to the tamiya springs I would start by raising all of the suspension blocks except the FF block by .5mm, which will raise your RC all round making the car more stable and giving more corner speed, and will give you the antidive I mentioned which will aid stability under brakes.
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