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Old 06-06-2011, 02:00 AM   #10396
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Default Tires

Roy,

I had the same problem with the rear of my car (416X) getting out of shape mid race.

From the stand the car was on rails for the first 6 or 7 laps then the rear grip went away. I was told by a couple of mod guys that the tires were working to hard in the corners and heating up and going off.

I couldn't hear that from the stand and I didn't want to make changes as the car was so good for the most part but in the end I had to flow the car more which required making the car softer all round and create less understeer.

This resulted in the tires not working as hard and not going off . I also lowered the roll centres.

Hope this helps.

AJ

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Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
Every body had to drive the same tires,tried a new set on the rear,setup was from one of the local guys with same car and driving style is i like a neutral or a bit understeerd car and it was very neutral for the first 2 qualies.
After that something changed that caused the sliding of the rear end of the car.
Track temp was almost the same the whole day
If i only could figure out what it was.
Funny thing was that on the very fast outside turn i had no problems at all.
It was only on the infield(tight turns) that i had problems
Took car apart last night to check again but nothing strange found.
Suspension is moving freely,no bend suspension pins,no cracks in chassis or topdeck,no loose parts,diff wasn't leaking,shocks ok.
I am without a clue to what has happend

regards Roy
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Old 06-06-2011, 02:56 AM   #10397
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Hey Adam,

Thanks for that.
Going to try if it works.
Lucky for me i am not comming back to that circuit this year
As it was a Tamiya sponsered event i had to use all Tamiya parts and didn't had any softer springs i couldn't try this.
I recieved the car just 2 days before the event and had to build it up from scratch as it was not setup properly at all.
Ordered the on road spring set from tamiya and have to wait till they arrive so i can test them.
Also on it's way is the new TRF(white) gear diff version 2 and a 3Racing one so i can try that one besides the Spec-R gear diff and see if there is any difference

regards Roy


Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Jacobs View Post
Roy,

I had the same problem with the rear of my car (416X) getting out of shape mid race.

From the stand the car was on rails for the first 6 or 7 laps then the rear grip went away. I was told by a couple of mod guys that the tires were working to hard in the corners and heating up and going off.

I couldn't hear that from the stand and I didn't want to make changes as the car was so good for the most part but in the end I had to flow the car more which required making the car softer all round and create less understeer.

This resulted in the tires not working as hard and not going off . I also lowered the roll centres.

Hope this helps.

AJ
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:02 AM   #10398
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:17 AM   #10399
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just to check why do we need to flip the belt for Lipo chassis???
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:34 AM   #10400
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Better weight balance??

regards Roy

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Originally Posted by burrppp52 View Post
just to check why do we need to flip the belt for Lipo chassis???
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:36 AM   #10401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
Better weight balance??

regards Roy
it still depend on wat electronic are on the chassis.. anyone care to share??
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:15 AM   #10402
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That 2 but the more the weight is in the centre of the chassis the better weight balance you got when going true a left right hander.
Priciple of middle point flying weight??
The longer the arm the more force there is on the outside.
So more weight on the outside of the chassis will add on slowing the car down going back to it's middle centre point.
Comming out of a corner and then going back into a straight line will need more effort then when the car has as much as possible weight in the centre of the chassis..
Is that making any sence?

regards Roy


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Originally Posted by burrppp52 View Post
it still depend on wat electronic are on the chassis.. anyone care to share??
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Old 06-12-2011, 03:12 PM   #10403
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Hey guys i need your input on this http://cgi.ebay.nl/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
A mate of mine is asking me if it is worth the hassle to get this car as it is a clone of the TRF416WE.
He wants to try a Tamiya based car but every time he finds a TRF416WE or TRF416X it is sold right in front of his nose or they ask silly money for the car.
Is it something worth trying or is it more trouble then pleasure??

regards Roy
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Old 06-12-2011, 03:36 PM   #10404
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I don't recommend the copy car. I had one for a short while and don't miss the headache. the car is only good after you've replaced all parts with Tamiya parts. tolerances are not as percise. materials are not good. As I look back on having the car, two words describes it well: Slop and Bind. the alloy is soft. the bulkheads tweak bend easily. Believe it or not you will have spent less buying the orginal. especially if you get a 2nd hand 416. Unfortunately, I know from first hand experience.
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Old 06-12-2011, 06:49 PM   #10405
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Can you turn a TRF416x into a TRF417 is it worth it or it can't be done
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:05 PM   #10406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgePravata View Post
Can you turn a TRF416x into a TRF417 is it worth it or it can't be done
Bulk heads, steering bridge, motor mounts, upper bulks, Chassis, top deck, center spur holder, so forth.

Not worth it.
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:07 PM   #10407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgePravata View Post
Can you turn a TRF416x into a TRF417 is it worth it or it can't be done
No you cant, the parts are too different. There are some things you can do to get similar effects though, like the .5mm shims under the bulkheads ala the TRF team @ the 2010 worlds. The camber link mod I described a page or so back gets you the longer link option like the 417. You can change the center pulleys for the tranny ratio. You wont ever get the weight placement of the 417 though, along with the subtle differences in the bellcranks, chassis flex, etc.
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Old 06-14-2011, 11:03 AM   #10408
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Does anyone have the front one-way diff with outdrives they don't need?

part # 9444623
and
part # 3454520

Thanks
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Old 06-24-2011, 02:48 PM   #10409
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Which cooling fan do you recommend for the motor? I'm running 17.5 no boost and last race motor was at 140 F.. Which I guess is fine but just want to be sure.
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Old 06-24-2011, 02:54 PM   #10410
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Quote:
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Which cooling fan do you recommend for the motor? I'm running 17.5 no boost and last race motor was at 140 F.. Which I guess is fine but just want to be sure.
That is definitely fine. Over 170 (or 200 on LRP motor) is when you need to start worrying. Any 25mm or 30mm fans that are available should be fine. Fan normally knocks about 20* off the temp
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