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Old 03-15-2011, 12:01 PM   #10291
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Originally Posted by guinnes.s View Post
can anyone suggest a lipo tray for the original 416 please.
plus are the new 417 shaft joint fit the 416 no problem?
thanx
I use a bitty design one, the car gets really balanced and the total weight is 1370grs.
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Old 03-15-2011, 01:29 PM   #10292
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Were can I get one?
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Old 03-15-2011, 02:00 PM   #10293
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Were can I get one?
They have website http://www.bittydesign.net/
But aparently their webstore is not working and I didn't saw the lipo trays area available.

Manutech Rc also have them, http://www.manutech.info/rcracinghom...gproducts.html
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:43 AM   #10294
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Wherer do i find this item. Looked all over but "NO FIND"

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TF Racing have launched their fully universal carbon fibre battery tray. Made in 3mm carbon fibre they help hold batteries in place during an impact where tape would sometimes break. Light and universal it fits most touring car chassis’ and has adjustable positioning for fine tuning your chassis balance. Mounted on 2 rubber o-rings to avoid tweak, it can accept LiPo batteries up to 138mm x 47mm. larger sizes to follow.
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Old 03-17-2011, 10:45 AM   #10295
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Wherer do i find this item. Looked all over but "NO FIND"

Thanks
http://tfracing.co.uk
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Old 03-27-2011, 03:28 PM   #10296
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I am a newbie to on-road racing and also the TRF416x. I am trying to assemble my race gear from scratch. At this point all I have is a radio and a nice used car on the way. Since you guys have experience with this car, what parts should I keep in stock in my pit box? I will be carpet racing, if that makes a difference. I know ideally I should have enough parts to almost build a second car, but that is not possible at this point in time. I would like to say thanks for your input in advance.
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Old 03-27-2011, 03:42 PM   #10297
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I am a newbie to on-road racing and also the TRF416x. I am trying to assemble my race gear from scratch. At this point all I have is a radio and a nice used car on the way. Since you guys have experience with this car, what parts should I keep in stock in my pit box? I will be carpet racing, if that makes a difference. I know ideally I should have enough parts to almost build a second car, but that is not possible at this point in time. I would like to say thanks for your input in advance.
at least 1-2 sets of arms, a set of c-hubs, front knuckles, king pin set, and the front rear and rear rear toe blocks.
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:44 AM   #10298
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Default rear ball diff

Hey guys,

I'm new to the 416we and noticed that the rear ball diff (pully) is kinda wobbling side to side. I took the diff apart, cleaned it and rebuilt it. Still the same issue. Is there a chance that the pully is worn out here the bearing sits? I have changed the bearings as well same thing.

Thanks
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:31 AM   #10299
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Hey guys,

I'm new to the 416we and noticed that the rear ball diff (pully) is kinda wobbling side to side. I took the diff apart, cleaned it and rebuilt it. Still the same issue. Is there a chance that the pully is worn out here the bearing sits? I have changed the bearings as well same thing.

Thanks
You could shim that, but it seems to be normal with most ball diffs. I have two pan cars that do that with the spur gear.
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:56 PM   #10300
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Originally Posted by Redwings View Post
Hey guys,

I'm new to the 416we and noticed that the rear ball diff (pully) is kinda wobbling side to side. I took the diff apart, cleaned it and rebuilt it. Still the same issue. Is there a chance that the pully is worn out here the bearing sits? I have changed the bearings as well same thing.

Thanks
Actually the wobble isn't a bad thing, as it should mean the pulley doesn't come into contact with the plates, freeing the action up.
The pulleys actually have some little "pucks" protruding from them to help touch the plates, but a lot of people remove these, so to free the diff up.
On a ball diff, you only want the balls touching the pulley, and only the balls contacting to the plates... if the pulley touches, then it will tighten up.

HiH
Ed
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:39 AM   #10301
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What's a good final drive ratio for non-ramping 17.5? Right now I'm running a 4.9 FDR for a 75'-80' run line down the front straight.
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:25 AM   #10302
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Originally Posted by Foxxrocket View Post
You could shim that, but it seems to be normal with most ball diffs. I have two pan cars that do that with the spur gear.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Actually the wobble isn't a bad thing, as it should mean the pulley doesn't come into contact with the plates, freeing the action up.
The pulleys actually have some little "pucks" protruding from them to help touch the plates, but a lot of people remove these, so to free the diff up.
On a ball diff, you only want the balls touching the pulley, and only the balls contacting to the plates... if the pulley touches, then it will tighten up.

HiH
Ed

wow Thanks guys, now I"m not so worried.
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Old 04-05-2011, 03:53 PM   #10303
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I was just on Smokems site.. Their LiPo chassis doesn't come with a cradle / cups to hold the battery?

Also it looks like the price dropped? Was it always $59?
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Old 04-05-2011, 04:46 PM   #10304
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Originally Posted by Raman View Post
I was just on Smokems site.. Their LiPo chassis doesn't come with a cradle / cups to hold the battery?

Also it looks like the price dropped? Was it always $59?
it was always $59, great deal for an amazing chassis plate
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:53 PM   #10305
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Price is great! $20 cheaper than Exotek!

Whats the thickness on the stock 416WE chassis? 2.3 as well?
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