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Old 02-04-2011, 07:08 AM   #10231
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Hi all,

for the 416x..if i'm using 1mm wheel spacers front and 0.5mm spacers rear will it give it more steering or otherwise? or its better to use 0.5mm front & rear?
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Old 02-04-2011, 01:09 PM   #10232
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Default Litemodz driveshaft



Is it worth the money in performance?
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Old 02-04-2011, 01:22 PM   #10233
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Is it worth the money in performance?
Read the Litemodz thread, not many happy customers.

I got a set... broke within 2 laps.... $100 wasted.
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Old 02-04-2011, 01:33 PM   #10234
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Read the Litemodz thread, not many happy customers.

I got a set... broke within 2 laps.... $100 wasted.
I have mine on couple of packs with it... so far it's ok.... gonna save it for TITC....
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Old 02-04-2011, 01:44 PM   #10235
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I have mine on couple of packs with it... so far it's ok.... gonna save it for TITC....
I hope you have better luck then I did... Mine failed using a 25.5, so they definitely were not robust.
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Old 02-04-2011, 01:53 PM   #10236
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I hope you have better luck then I did... Mine failed using a 25.5, so they definitely were not robust.
Were running 5.5t on turbo esc.... however felt like there's some binding when turning the servo (esc off)....
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Old 02-04-2011, 04:33 PM   #10237
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Read the Litemodz thread, not many happy customers.

I got a set... broke within 2 laps.... $100 wasted.
what other good options then,any suggestions?
thanx
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Old 02-04-2011, 06:36 PM   #10238
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I have a set of Team C ECS shafts in the front.. I heard they were rubbish but so far so good. But they're cheap enough. Car handles really well with them

If they don't work out I'm gonna try the TRF417 axles as the locking grub screw will not be needed which should help steering as the pin floats. Use steel bones up front they are super reliable, I've used the same set in my Mi4 and Photon they lasted six months before finally wearing out.

The standard Litemodz shaft is ok in the back as there is less stress. Ok if you need to lose 10g. Std or CVS are a complete disaster in the front..you'll have to throw them away the first day. That is of course assuming your order ever arrives..
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Old 02-05-2011, 11:16 AM   #10239
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Question in regards to chassis flex. I'm running the 416 and it seems to want to snap going in and then comming out of a corner. I check it on the bench and there is quite some flex compared to my tc5. Is this normal or is the chassis past its life.
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.
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Old 02-05-2011, 12:31 PM   #10240
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Could be chassis tweak.
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Old 02-06-2011, 06:28 AM   #10241
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About gear diff in Tamiya 416......

Have tested like you suggested Kevin K, but it did not help

I have given up the gear diff. Once I did put in the old ball diff my car was very good !

PS I am running mod 4,5 turn, think the gear diff might be ok in stock.
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Old 02-06-2011, 08:05 AM   #10242
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About gear diff in Tamiya 416......

Have tested like you suggested Kevin K, but it did not help

I have given up the gear diff. Once I did put in the old ball diff my car was very good !

PS I am running mod 4,5 turn, think the gear diff might be ok in stock.
Wow thats a bummer....I know that on some of the setup sheet that Marc and Jillies are both running gear diffs in their cars and they only run mod. So maybe something else is going on with the diff? Maybe you need thicker or thiner oil like other suggested? It would be something to play with when you have more time.
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Old 02-06-2011, 08:58 AM   #10243
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ok a simple question,my spool outdrives are not in good shape and i was thinking to glue together a diff and make it work like a spool.
would it work?
thanx
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Old 02-06-2011, 09:43 AM   #10244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tor Erik View Post
About gear diff in Tamiya 416......

Have tested like you suggested Kevin K, but it did not help

I have given up the gear diff. Once I did put in the old ball diff my car was very good !

PS I am running mod 4,5 turn, think the gear diff might be ok in stock.
I ran a gear diff all summer long with a 5.5 and it worked great. I used 1000 wt oil.
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Old 02-06-2011, 09:45 AM   #10245
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has anyone used the white belts on the 416x?
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