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Old 10-20-2010, 08:57 AM   #9946
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Does anyone know if there is a list somewhere which shows all the center to center distances on tamiya suspension blocks?.

If this isn't available maybe someone could be so kind to measure some of the blocks?.

I want to convert my T3 to a tamiya steering system and the tamiya suspension blocks.

I'm currently ordering all the Tamiya parts but first I need to know which blocks I need to get the same trackwidth as I'm currently using.

Thank you.
Why would you order Tamiya parts to convert your T3? Get the latest T3 2011 (T311) instead!
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Old 10-20-2010, 11:35 AM   #9947
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Why would you order Tamiya parts to convert your T3? Get the latest T3 2011 (T311) instead!
Nope, as I don't like the design of the T3'11 steering system and chassis plate.
The Tamiya design is better and I think I'm able to design a better chassis.

Also I think it's much nicer to run something which is of your own design as to just run out and buy the latest.
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Old 10-20-2010, 11:42 AM   #9948
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I converted my xray 009 car to use the steering from my 416 since our ultra high traction indoor asphalt track (feels like driving on double sided tape) caters much better to the xray car, but the 416 steering is much smoother to drive making the Xray 009 a wonderful car to drive at this track.
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Old 10-20-2010, 02:31 PM   #9949
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Old 10-21-2010, 06:42 AM   #9950
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So is the Exotek chassis crap compared to the Smokem? I have an Exotek on the way!
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Old 10-21-2010, 07:58 AM   #9951
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Depends on the track and what your looking for

It seems to be very close to the tamiya lipo deck
Which transformed my car which I didn't run my x as I didn't like the feel till I but on the lipo deck as the car seemed to lazy and not aversive like the we
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Old 10-21-2010, 08:31 AM   #9952
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I have some low-tech questions I hope to know the answers to. I did search for keywords like ball diff and battery in this thread but couldn't find the direct answers..

My setup: TRF416 World Edition, all stock. Running Jilles Asphalt setup. 0 rebound shocks, white/blue springs f/r, muchmore 600, 3.5 rear toe, 1.0 front toe out, ride height 4.5, droop 1.5. servo S9551, 21.5 Ballistic, Novak Havoc Pro ESC. FDR 3.0, using Solaris hard premount spec tires.

1. My car seems to wander a bit, I think it is related to the battery moving fore/aft and contacting the steering post. I did replace the servo horn with the Tamiya 54121 aluminum horn and that has removed that odd notchy feel that came about after a good meeting with the end of a 2x4 on the straight. The question: what is the best method to keep the battery away from the steering post? Use a chassis sticky weight? I'm using Thunderpower 50c 5200mah batts.

2. My ball diff loosened up on me during a run and I overtightened it causing the screw to break (yes I'm new to RC as of January this year). How tight should the ball diff be and how do I check it properly? Do I need locktight on this screw for the balldiff?

Thanks,

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Old 10-21-2010, 08:45 AM   #9953
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1. My car seems to wander a bit, I think it is related to the battery moving fore/aft and contacting the steering post. I did replace the servo horn with the Tamiya 54121 aluminum horn and that has removed that odd notchy feel that came about after a good meeting with the end of a 2x4 on the straight. The question: what is the best method to keep the battery away from the steering post? Use a chassis sticky weight? I'm using Thunderpower 50c 5200mah batts.
The servo saver needs to be rebuilt once in a while. The aluminum horn is nice but the springs wear out. When they wear out there is play in the saver which will cause the car to feel like it won't center properly. The servo saver kit is less than $10.

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2. My ball diff loosened up on me during a run and I overtightened it causing the screw to break (yes I'm new to RC as of January this year). How tight should the ball diff be and how do I check it properly? Do I need locktight on this screw for the balldiff?
For 21.5 you can get away with running the diff pretty loose. An easy way to test it would be to hold the 2 back wheels between your hand so they can't spin (or press the car down hard on the table) and use your thumb on the spur gear to spin the rear belt. You should be able to make the diff slip with some force. If it slips easily it's too loose, if you can't get it to slip at all it's probably too tight.
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Old 10-21-2010, 04:12 PM   #9954
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So is the Exotek chassis crap compared to the Smokem? I have an Exotek on the way!
I have converted my with the Exotech build was not a problem it runs well for me on carpet as well as on our normal surface painted. So as far as I am cocerned is when we built it did not have too reduce the top deck size or inlarge holes. And quick service as well.

I also have a friend who runs it on a Cyclone TC and he is wrapped in it.

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Old 10-25-2010, 02:22 PM   #9955
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Gee quiet in here, everyone must have 417s and aren't letting on

I just put together a new spec-r diff and I really recommend getting a new one if like me you're still rocking an old one. The new ones build up way smoother than the originals ever did and they come with x-rings and proper shims out out the box
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Old 10-25-2010, 03:19 PM   #9956
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Securing my LiPo pack???

Can someone list all of the the available options for securing the lipo pack on the 416x?

Tamiya upgrade chassis
Exotec

Other options?
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Old 10-25-2010, 04:25 PM   #9957
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Securing my LiPo pack???

Can someone list all of the the available options for securing the lipo pack on the 416x?

Tamiya upgrade chassis
Exotec

Other options?
I second that, kinda sick and tired of using tapes to secure it and the new 416X Chassis is quite costly, I am thinking might as well saving up for the 417 release instead of spending like $100USD on the lipo chassis
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Old 10-25-2010, 07:57 PM   #9958
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Even with the lipo holders tape is still the best option
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Old 10-25-2010, 08:17 PM   #9959
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u dont mind using tape to hold the vertical movement right? and their really isnt any other way unless u want to be unscrewing a strap like on the earlier xrays.

As far as side movement, someone in this thread mentioned cutting servo tape the size of the the battery slots to stick under the battery.
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:25 PM   #9960
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Gee quiet in here, everyone must have 417s and aren't letting on

I just put together a new spec-r diff and I really recommend getting a new one if like me you're still rocking an old one. The new ones build up way smoother than the originals ever did and they come with x-rings and proper shims out out the box
How would i know if i gotten the 'new' spec-r diff from my LHS?

I meant if i never seen the old one before.
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