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Old 10-14-2010, 12:02 AM   #9916
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Does that mean you are racing Tamiya again?
Yar (although due to work, unlikely to hit the track anytime soon!)
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:40 AM   #9917
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Originally Posted by Arahawak View Post
Why will snap the belts? Would lessen the tension of the belts help?

would the bigger center alu pulley help in preventing belt snaps?

Sorry for so many questions.. trying to learn the car.
The gear diffs have no slip unlike a ball diff so they put more stress on the drivetrain. I normally run my belts quite tight for this reason, I run the same setting as syndrome.

The bigger pulley will help because there are more teeth and surface area transmitting the power, and the curve of the belt around the pulley isn't as severe as the smaller pulley.
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Old 10-14-2010, 02:52 AM   #9918
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The gear diffs have no slip unlike a ball diff so they put more stress on the drivetrain. I normally run my belts quite tight for this reason, I run the same setting as syndrome.

The bigger pulley will help because there are more teeth and surface area transmitting the power, and the curve of the belt around the pulley isn't as severe as the smaller pulley.
Ok will take note to tighten the belt when i get a gear diff.

So I should be looking for 19T or 20T center pulley then right?

Hmmz, just realize also if we change the center pulley, won't the internal ratio change too?
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Old 10-14-2010, 04:56 AM   #9919
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yes 1.94 and 1.85
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Old 10-14-2010, 05:07 PM   #9920
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I just picked up a 416x with the smokem lipo chassie, first weekend with the car a TQed both rounds and won the main. This car is sooooo much better than my Photon.
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Old 10-14-2010, 05:15 PM   #9921
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Anyone on this thread going to the Halloween Classic in Cleveland next weekend?
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Old 10-14-2010, 06:28 PM   #9922
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on one of the suspension mount setup given, the Front suspension mounts require D but as i am using seperate suspension mounton the front rear, should i just stick with the 1a/1xa or are there any other options? plus it says 0.5 shim? hmmmm
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Old 10-14-2010, 10:11 PM   #9923
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on one of the suspension mount setup given, the Front suspension mounts require D but as i am using seperate suspension mounton the front rear, should i just stick with the 1a/1xa or are there any other options? plus it says 0.5 shim? hmmmm
The standard setup is C/C front and XA/E on the rear. D/D on the front is a good to take away steering if you have too much, I most often use D/D on my original 416. We almost always run 0.5mm under the rear blocks, and often run 0.5mm under the front block that is flipped over the belt to provide some anti-dive, though this is becoming less common with the X and the lipo deck.

If you are running an A block at the front then you most likely have the original 416 with the long arms. Chucking them in the bin is the first thing you should do
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Old 10-15-2010, 07:21 AM   #9924
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hey guys,

here is my 416 with some modification~
take a look~




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Old 10-15-2010, 10:13 AM   #9925
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Cool Please Help!

I have a few questions if someone would help that would be greatly appreciated:

1. If I install the Tamiya 54121 Aluminum Servo horn will this take out the slop in my servo saver? Do I have to buy the new servo saver and the horn or will the horn alone fix the slop? I'm guessing the slop is caused by the soft plastic top piece being compromised by the servo saver springs in a good impact.

My servo saver is notchy and causes my car to wander left or right.

I know a lot of you use the Kimbrough servo saver too, but would prefer to pickup the Tamiya aluminum horn since it is locally sold.

2. Are the knuckles and c-hubs left/right specific?

3. My car has some torque steer. There is no tweak but I have yet to balance the chassis, could this cause the on/off throttle torque steer?

BTW, I am running Jilles asphalt setup on the car, 21.5 Novak, 50c Thunderpower battery, 15g weight on battery side rear, Havoc ESC and S9551 Futaba Servo with R604fs receiver.

Thanks a lot in advance.
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Old 10-15-2010, 11:14 AM   #9926
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Originally Posted by Tron View Post
I have a few questions if someone would help that would be greatly appreciated:

1. If I install the Tamiya 54121 Aluminum Servo horn will this take out the slop in my servo saver? Do I have to buy the new servo saver and the horn or will the horn alone fix the slop? I'm guessing the slop is caused by the soft plastic top piece being compromised by the servo saver springs in a good impact.

My servo saver is notchy and causes my car to wander left or right.

I know a lot of you use the Kimbrough servo saver too, but would prefer to pickup the Tamiya aluminum horn since it is locally sold.

2. Are the knuckles and c-hubs left/right specific?

3. My car has some torque steer. There is no tweak but I have yet to balance the chassis, could this cause the on/off throttle torque steer?

BTW, I am running Jilles asphalt setup on the car, 21.5 Novak, 50c Thunderpower battery, 15g weight on battery side rear, Havoc ESC and S9551 Futaba Servo with R604fs receiver.

Thanks a lot in advance.
1. Keep Servo savers in stock because they do go bad after a while. Just replace them they are cheap.
2. The C-hubs are for sure side specific. the steering block are not.
3. Make sure the belts and diffs are tight and make sure your car is balanced and not tweaked
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Old 10-18-2010, 12:16 PM   #9927
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Could someone kindly give me the link for the aftermarket gear diff for the 416.

Thanks
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Old 10-18-2010, 12:45 PM   #9928
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Could someone kindly give me the link for the aftermarket gear diff for the 416.

Thanks
http://www.spec-r.com/specrr2/
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Old 10-19-2010, 12:45 AM   #9929
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For those of you that run the smokem fx chassi make sure that the chassi isnt bent like a banana when assembled. We had two chassis that ended up like this and had to file the topdeck quite a bit on both ends and enlarge the front holes in the topdeck to line them up with the bulkhead holes. The chassi seems to be around 0.5mm shorter than stock tamiya one.
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Old 10-19-2010, 12:45 PM   #9930
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Hi everyone.
With the Smoken-Fx chassis I had the same problem. In my the hole were not off-center than the original but the belt most shortened. I slightly loosened the belt and everything went well.
With the new chassis and Spec-R diff in my first indoor race in this season I take the final "A" and I ended up 5th in the overall standings.
Good result if we think that for the first time I raced with the new chassis and the new diff.
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